The Tan Lady - A 1997 Crown Victoria

[jaywish]

What dash light?

[SeanP]

What dash light?

Check air suspension light

[79lincolnlover]

Nice aero! Were service records included?

[89TownCar]

Nice car, I had a 1997 P73(base)

[IPreferDIY]

... But if what I'm reading is right, the dryer beads wear out and the moisture builds up and messes with the vent solenoids? So the system cannot evacuate the air in the bags? And baking the beads solves this problem? I'm willing to try anything once, but is there anything else I need to do while I'm at it? I read the thread I was linked to, but it's all a little new to me so I was having a hard time following along.

I don't think I would want to buy a new dryer, since it's half the cost of a spring conversion kit and if it doesn't work I would rather have spent that cash on the conversion kit. ...

I doubt there's any certainty that baking the beads will solve the problem, but it's one of those things that needs to be done to have a healthy system. Since you've reported venting action, that would indicate the solenoids are not completely seized, but the minutae are beyond me. Instead of getting people in the back seat, you could try loading heavy stuff in the trunk.

You should check the condition of the bags. They typically develop cracks at the bottom. If they look to be in good shape, then you might only need to replace the solenoids if baking the beads isn't enough.

To get at the compressor/dryer, you have to take the air filter box out. If the aeros have the windshield washer bottle there, you might have to move it out of the way. The compressor should have three nuts on the underside of the fender liner. If you're lucky, they won't be seized. Once you get those off, the compressor/dryer lifts out. To get the air line out, you press on the orange ring (I use needlenose pliers to apply force on both sides of the line) and pull on the air line. Unplugging the wiring harness should be straightforward. There's a single screw holding the dryer on. With the screw out, give the dryer a twist (not sure which direction, but I'd guess counterclockwise), and pull it out.

The only other components of the system are the solenoids on the bags, the bags themselves, the ride height sensor, the controller, and the wiring.

So is this the part I need? Would it be a good idea to replace the door too? Or are those heartier?

I don't know about part number specifics, but it looks like the right part. I was actually going to raise the issue of the door. I've read about the hinges breaking, though I'm not sure about years. If it were me, I'd be inclined to put some epoxy around the hinges for reinforcement if it could be done without messing up anything (assuming yours aren't already broken). Replacing the door might be good preventive maintenance, but I don't really know.

... If it is just a matter of baking the beads, that's great. For those who have done this, how long until this corrects the issue? Also, how does the dash light go away? Does it need to be cleared? ...

I can't offer any guidance on how long it might take to work, or whether it will actually fix the problem. As for the light, I'm not aware of any reset procedure. It should stay off once the underlying cause is corrected. I wonder if there are any codes for the air suspension system.

That reminds me, there is a self-test you can do for the EATC (which I'm assuming you have):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hAqE-oYnvlQ

[SeanP]

I'm just looking at this write up here. As it gives a good look at the set up. I think this is definitely for a later model, but probably very similar setup. I was having a hard time finding a replacement door (plan on doing it all at the same time) when I came across this and it seems logical that the door would be a part of this assembly and not sold separately... mostly because it seems like it was manufactured into the assembly and that replacing the door would require snapping the assembly apart. I'm going to cross my fingers that the door is a-ok I think, because these seem to run in the $200 range for a replacement.

Just for my peace of mind too, I think I will do the dash drop procedure in full. I think it would be good experience anyway and I've seen lots of videos and read lots of write ups. Seems straight forward, just time consuming and fiddly.

RE: air suspension. I'm going to see if maybe it's just a fuse or something. I'm hoping that's the case. If it's anything else, I'm probably going to do the swap out. Based on what I think the symptoms are, I'm looking at either faulty ride height sensor/control module or moisture in the system which is likely slowly destroying everything. The cost of ride height sensor/control module seems about the same, if not more than, the swap kit. Now this likely won't be a popular decision, but I think it's the one I'm going to have to make just because of the costs involved of replacing the air ride components properly.

If I do end up doing the swap, for those who have done this blasphemous procedure before me, is it better to use a progressive spring or a standard spring? What have your experiences been? I've seen kits for both types and would like to have the best ride possible... it seems that a progressive spring would do best. I'm not planning on towing or carrying tons of people all the time. It's going to transport me most of the time and the family and some luggage sometimes.

[SeanP]

Just asked my father-in-law to check the power distribution box for the air ride fuse. Hopefully, that's the only problem. It probably wont be, but I will cross my fingers. If it's anything else, I'm going to have to bite the bullet and do the swap. I think I will go with the Monroe kit on RockAuto. Looks like it will do the trick. Please no hating my poor, unfit-for-HPP ass.

[Salty Dog]

Lookin good. Congrats!

[SeanP]

Lookin good. Congrats!

Thanks, Salty Dog! But maybe hold your congrats until she's on the road. I have some toiling to attend to before I feel like I'm home free.

[Chuck Norris]

If you swap it, go with the progressive spring. No reason to go with the standard spring unless you are towing, going for a raked look, etc. (that I know of.)

[gadget73]

I've done the progressive spring thing. Works fine for about a year then the soft part sags and it drags ass. Tried 2 sets, gave up and put stock coils on it. It still sags with weight, hence why I'd prefer air suspension.

[sly]

I have the variable cargo coils on my beater... works great when towing... but otherwise... meh. Wish I had air.

[SeanP]

Latest update:

All of the fuses are good. Father-in-law took a look underneath up on the hoist. Air ride system looks all good, bags are good. Doesn't really make sense. He also suggested just putting tape over the light and driving it. LOL. He got in and drove it around the farm a bit. Compressor came on for a bit to lift the car up when he got in. Stopped when it felt it had done its duty. He's also of the opinion that the car height looks pretty decent. It's a head scratcher. I think I'm going to take a look at the sensor and see if it's gone off of its mount?

Is there a good troubleshooting procedure for these systems in general? I found one on a Lincoln forum, but I haven't really found anything relating specifically to Crown Vics... though I do imagine the system is pretty much the same. I just want an itemized "do this first, if not this check that next, if not that... etc." Something illustrated would be good since I'm really new to these cars and don't know where anything is or what it even is supposed to look like in most cases. Though I get a little more knowledge every day...

New item of concern:

Some of the brake lines are apparently a little crusty. Nothing is leaking though, but father-in-law suggested I wire brush some of the rust off and grease the bejeesus out of em to preserve them as best I can. I think it's the rear brake lines, so the concern level isn't as high I think than if it were the front brakes. Some of the lines are apparently in really great shape though... so it's bizarre.

Speaking of front brakes, I'm going to need new ones of those for sure. I have a company in Richmond Hill that sells cheapo brakes. I've had good success with them in the past. The stuff fits and works great. Probably not as good as some of the name brands, but really not too bad. I can get a whole front kit shipped to me for about $100.

New Parts Ordered:

Ordered a heater blend door actuator from Rockauto.com. Not too sure when it will arrive since our mail service in Canada is having labour disputes at the moment. But it will get here eventually. All in, with taxes, shipping and currency conversion it was $10 cheaper than the cheapest list price I found at one of the local parts stores before tax. And they would still need to order it anyway.

[IPreferDIY]

... Seems straight forward, just time consuming and fiddly. ...

Sounds about right.

Latest update:

All of the fuses are good. Father-in-law took a look underneath up on the hoist. Air ride system looks all good, bags are good. Doesn't really make sense. He also suggested just putting tape over the light and driving it. LOL. He got in and drove it around the farm a bit. Compressor came on for a bit to lift the car up when he got in. Stopped when it felt it had done its duty. He's also of the opinion that the car height looks pretty decent. It's a head scratcher. I think I'm going to take a look at the sensor and see if it's gone off of its mount?

Is there a good troubleshooting procedure for these systems in general? I found one on a Lincoln forum, but I haven't really found anything relating specifically to Crown Vics... though I do imagine the system is pretty much the same. I just want an itemized "do this first, if not this check that next, if not that... etc." Something illustrated would be good since I'm really new to these cars and don't know where anything is or what it even is supposed to look like in most cases. Though I get a little more knowledge every day... ...

It's a head scratcher alright. It sounds like everything is actually doing what it's supposed to do. The compressor came on and went off, so there must have been a height signal. If there was a leak, the compressor would just keep running. The height sensor popping off is a known problem from the ball retainer bit becoming too small from corrosion, but you would probably have really funky symptoms like complete deflation. It's easy enough to check, and you can also take the one end off yourself to see if the sensor rod moves in and out freely or whether it's sticky or seizing. Mine actually has a plastic accordion sleeve on it to keep if from getting gunked up. If there was a problem with only one solenoid, I would think you'd end up with a lopsided ass end. IIRC, I've only read about one instance of a controller being bad, so I doubt that's the problem, but it could be. Getting a controller from a U-pull yard might be cheap enough for testing purposes, but probably hard to find.

The Lincoln one might very well be exactly the same, but I don't know for sure.

One longshot that you could try is disconnecting the battery for awhile and seeing if the light still comes on after reconnecting the battery.

[jaywish]

Be prepared to replace the brake lines as soon as you touch them if they are crusty. In general you should replace them when they are crusty before they leak.

If you are going to change calipers that is generally the best time to do lines, IMHO get the newfangled Nickel-Copper lines.