1988 Lincoln Town Car

[nfldfordltd]

Ah, yes, the inertia switch. I'll be checking that first of course.
Then I'll check for voltage at the connector above the tank, to see if the problem is at the tank or ahead of it. If it's ahead, I'll look into the relay. If it's behind, I'll have to drop the tank and check out the connector on the pump and finally the pump.
Due to the course of events, I have a sinking feeling the pump is no good.
It had a "Made in China" sticker on it.
Nuff said. LOL

[Mainemantom]

Trunk floor looks really good. If you need to drop the tank again, put a thin piece of rubber between the straps (hopefully new) and the new tank. I used bicycle inner tube rubber.

Looks a lot better than it did IMO

[nfldfordltd]

Trunk floor looks really good. If you need to drop the tank again, put a thin piece of rubber between the straps (hopefully new) and the new tank. I used bicycle inner tube rubber.

I picked out the best straps and rubber strips and used them when I put the tank back in. I didn't put rubberized foam pads back on the back and top of the tank like the original tank had, but I did put half a dozen strips of duct tape on each end to keep the tank from rubbing directly on the sheet metal of the body. The install went pretty well overall.

[nfldfordltd]

So I found the culprit for the inoperative fuel pump it seems...there was an apparent lack of good connection at the fuel pump connector above the tank, next to where the wires come through the upper part of the trunk. I had it unplugged when I was removing the old tank and I must have disturbed it a little bit. While I was testing for power to it, the pump came on and it started presto.
There is still a chance the fuel pump itself is a POS, so I'm going to order another new one soon as I don't trust anything made in China.
Any suggestions for a good aftermarket fuel pump? The prospect of getting an original Ford one are pretty slim and quite expensive I suspect...

[Hearsesrock427]

Wow, you've really run that gamut with that '88! I don't blame you- triple blue Townies are the shit. I've only seen one triple blue Townie in person. Some guy in the next town over owns one. It's 100% mint inside and out, and it's even a Signature Series car to boot. And I definitely agree with doing the important but boring stuff before the exciting go-fast stuff. I'm assuming you haven't replaced the trunk weatherstripping? Assuming that's original to the car, I wouldn't be surprised if it wasn't up to snuff at keeping moisture out...... I just can't see how else you'd get water trapped in there. Either way I'd hate to see that brand new floor become swiss cheese like the old one did!

I've heard good things about Walbro pumps. Pretty sure they're not made in China, and they also make stuff that pumps more than stock. Win-win, especially since you mentioned a SEFI 351 down the road.

[nfldfordltd]

Wow, you've really run that gamut with that '88! I don't blame you- triple blue Townies are the shit. I've only seen one triple blue Townie in person. Some guy in the next town over owns one. It's 100% mint inside and out, and it's even a Signature Series car to boot. And I definitely agree with doing the important but boring stuff before the exciting go-fast stuff. I'm assuming you haven't replaced the trunk weatherstripping? Assuming that's original to the car, I wouldn't be surprised if it wasn't up to snuff at keeping moisture out...... I just can't see how else you'd get water trapped in there. Either way I'd hate to see that brand new floor become swiss cheese like the old one did!

I've heard good things about Walbro pumps. Pretty sure they're not made in China, and they also make stuff that pumps more than stock. Win-win, especially since you mentioned a SEFI 351 down the road.

Thanks for the compliments. I'll have a look at eh Walbro pumps when I get the chance sometime soon. Probably going to replace the relays and stuff as well while I'm at it. I don't believe in half measures...as you can probably tell.

[nfldfordltd]

Fuel pump issues seems to be sorted for the time being. Spent most of the day replacing A/C system components (compressor, accumulator/drier and orifice tube). Lines and condenser appear to be in good shape, so hopefully the new smog bypass belt will arrive tomorrow and I'll be able to give it a charge and it will work. I got a Duracool recharge kit with three 6 oz cans of R-12 plus an extra can of OilChill with leak detection dye to fill it up with. Fingers crossed that it does the trick.

[79lincolnlover]

Has the parts car been scrapped?

[nfldfordltd]

Has the parts car been scrapped?

Harvested and gone. That center cap is in my garage and when I get the chance, I'll make up a little box to put it in and pop it in the mail to you.

[nfldfordltd]

Air conditioning is working like the clock! First time in the nine years I had this car, and what a comfort it is!

[nfldfordltd]

So for the last 24 hours, this car has been running like shit.
It has a BAD flat spot, like backfiring through the intake, no power at all, and idles really rough. Even stalls when you put it in gear sometimes. If you ease into the go pedal, it'll be almost acceptable in that it will increase RPMs like it's supposed to but it still doesn't feel right. If you mash the gas, it'll totally just all but die. It'll backfire, flatline RPMs, won't pick up at all. It'll stay like that for a few (maybe even up to 10 seconds) then pick up and lazily speed up. No power on hills at all.
It just started on it's own, I didn't mess with anything yesterday to cause it. The only things I have tried are I checked out the distributor cap, tried another coil, and quickly observed fuel pressure at the rail valve. All that checks out OK. I don't hear any new or alarming vacuum leaks.
All tune up items are new (plugs, wires, dist. cap, rotor button) with new O2 sensors, MAP sensor, IAC motor, etc. Basically only things original are TPS and EGR.
Anyone else experience this phenomenon? I just had a hellish weekend with the truck, I'd like to have the car running properly as it always ran good, no matter what was up with it.

[gadget73]

unhook the map sensor to see if anything changes. If it gets better, the MAP is dead. If no change, you've got no vacuum to the MAP.

Make sure the EGR valve isn't jammed open. Maybe pull the vacuum line off to make sure it doesn't have vacuum on the line, but a physical check to make sure its not hung up on a nugget of crap wouldn't be a terrible idea.

Change the fuel filter too if you haven't.

[nfldfordltd]

MAP and EGR check out fine.
I did change the fuel filter, but that was 8 or 9 years /80,000 miles ago. I'll get one for it ASAP and try it as it really should be done anyway.
Thanks Gadget.

[nfldfordltd]

So I changed the fuel filter today and put a bottle of injector cleaner in the tank for good measure.
Crossed my fingers that it would fix my problem.
But nope.
Just as bad as yesterday.
TPS and EGR check out OK. I also disconnected the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line to provide full pressure to see if that was causing me trouble. No difference to the way it runs one way or another.
Took the fuel line off the filter again and ran a hose from the filter outlet into a bottle. Fuel flow seems fine as it is pumping a 600 mL bottle over half full when the pump is energized for 10 seconds. Hard to tell if the actual pressure is right though without actually testing that on the Schrader valve on the fuel rail.
Once again, I'm suspicious of the Chinese fuel pump.
Any ideas of anything else I should check before I go shopping for another better fuel pump?

[gadget73]

pressure test it first. That will be easier than dropping the tank.

Pull the plugs and give them an eyeball, just in case.

Have you checked it for codes?