85.03 Crown Vic Coupe "CVGT"

[Bobcat]

So once it's warmed up, it'll idle on its own. Is insanely hard to get to stay running after the first 30 seconds, until it's a little warmed up. Then it'll start and idle.

[Brown_Muscle]

Are you able to smell the exhaust close to the point it dies? It COULD be running too lean at that point. There is a fuel startup table that adds fuel...30 and 45 seconds are points where it starts to stop adding any major amount of fuel. Isn't this the same engine? Did you make any changes to it?

[Bobcat]

Are you able to smell the exhaust close to the point it dies? It COULD be running too lean at that point. There is a fuel startup table that adds fuel...30 and 45 seconds are points where it starts to stop adding any major amount of fuel. Isn't this the same engine? Did you make any changes to it?

It's got different headers. That's it. Also doesn't have one down pipe on, I'm going to put that on today. But it was running without any O2 sensors plugged in.

Literally you've got to just keep starting it, letting it run for 30 seconds before it dies and keep repeating until it warms up and will idle.

[knucklehead0202]

Without o2 signal it may be running too fat and just drowning itself. Is it super-stinky?

[86VickyLX]

Engine doesn't look at O2 sensors til it is warmed up anyway. This should not be a factor for cold starts.

[Brown_Muscle]

It already ran like poo before on startup. Lack of exhaust could cause enough back pressure issues to be the last straw, try sticking some pipes on it, with maybe an artificial restriction (duct tape?) to see if it starts and runs better.

[Bobcat]

Down pipes now on it, same story.

TPS is .68, swapped it out for Nick's TPS, his is the same. His car runs, this one doesn't.

Starts up with 40 PSI fuel pressure, and then dies as my fuel pressure gauge starts going down. Car completely dies when it's at about 10.

[Brown_Muscle]

So you are loosing fuel pressure as it's running? fuel pressure regulator bad?

[gadget73]

0.68 is a bit on the low side. I want to say the ecm's bottom end for where it can compensate for is 0.7 or something like that.

Is that what the ECM has to say it is, or is it at least measured across the tps leads? if the ground is somewhere other than the black wire on the tps, the numbers lie.


if its dropping pressure while running, maybe check the voltage getting to the fuel pump. If something is shitty there the pump won't have enough oomph to keep up.

[Bobcat]

0.68 is a bit on the low side. I want to say the ecm's bottom end for where it can compensate for is 0.7 or something like that.

Is that what the ECM has to say it is, or is it at least measured across the tps leads? if the ground is somewhere other than the black wire on the tps, the numbers lie.


if its dropping pressure while running, maybe check the voltage getting to the fuel pump. If something is shitty there the pump won't have enough oomph to keep up.

It was checked between the green and black wire.
I'm going to add more fuel in the tank, since I put 5 gallons in the other day and it surely must be getting low (Maybe the pickup isn't picking up.. Worth a try.) . It's going to really piss me off if the pump is bad. Since dropping the tank SUCKS. I'm getting really fed up with this running issue and I figured it'd be solved when I put the new pump in.

I cycle the key 3 times to get it to 40 PSI. Then when it starts it will drop down to 10 PSI and stall. (Engine dying with fuel pressure decrease.) The other day when I had it running and idling, the fuel pressure was consistent at 40. So it's likely that it's something pump related. How might I go about checking the voltage?

Broke the solenoid today. I unhooked the battery cable from it, so that I could unplug the ECU to double check all the terminals. Reconnected the ECU and put the battery cable back on and started gently tightening it down. Stud broke right off, as they do. I promptly took it off the fender and threw it against the wall. Then went upstairs for a couple hours before going back down.

Sadly, I'm cobbling things together (As long as it works, it's fine) since I need the car for this coming Friday (My Senior Prom). Brakes are bled, clutch is bled, clutch support bracket is made and ready to be welded.

IF I CAN GET THIS PIG RUNNING, IT COULD DRIVE.

5/6/16

[gadget73]

Stab a meter into the connector at the tank if you can get to it. I want to say there is a connector somewhere up above the tank that might almost be accessible. Could be the relay is crappy or there is a problem in the wiring. I had the connection at the inertia switch in the trunk get crappy on me and it wouldn't let the pump run.

[Bobcat]

Stab a meter into the connector at the tank if you can get to it. I want to say there is a connector somewhere up above the tank that might almost be accessible. Could be the relay is crappy or there is a problem in the wiring. I had the connection at the inertia switch in the trunk get crappy on me and it wouldn't let the pump run.

Thain, you give a broken man; hope.

[Bobcat]

Well one new fuel pump later.. It runs just fine. I put the h pipe back on and did a couple more little things, bolted the slave cylinder on and the bracket support. So I risked it and took it out for a drive. The clutch is a bitch since the master has such a short travel distance, which i really don't like. More or less it's an on or off switch.

Yes it does burnouts. It still LAYS HEAVY one wheel peels. But since I was driving around in a car that's basically open headers and it was 10PM while I was doing for a test rip.. I decided I should put it away before the cops get called.
Oh and the brakes basically don't work whatsoever. I had to pump up the pedal a WHOLE BUNCH to get them to even barely grab.

That's all I did for tonight, since I fucked up my hand relatively badly ( all swollen and whatnot. ) by punching the drill press this morning.



Yeah it needs some coil cut in the front end and some new rear coils.

[Grand Marquis GT]

Big steam!

[sly]

that gasser look yo!