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Someone is interested in purchasing them for 100$ shipped. I haven't taken them out yet since I've been so bound to both of my projects and I'm trying to move the Vic along and get it done.
No worries then, might buy an equivalent set from summit to avoid brokerage/duty that isnt covered when buying from speedway.
Thanks anyway.
1985 LTD Crown Vic, factory hard top, 302 soon to be gt40p headed (lightly ported & blended), summit brand stealth (port matched), stock cam, summit annular 600cfm VS, dual exhaust, 3.55 LSD, AOD, electric fan swap, tan interior.
Update from today, got a couple more things done..
Painted the calipers and brackets over the last few days, finished my frame painting yesterday and spent a good amount of time today, fully cleaning all of the grease off the rack and crossmember. Thereafter when I got back home from dinner, I bolted it all on and put the brakes on. I think it looks pretty. I also got a battery relocation kit, so I put the back half of that in. Don't know what I'm doing tomorrow, but maybe I'll start prepping for the motor mount fabrication.
Looks like coupes got their own fancy seatbelt retractors.
Documenting my pedals, whilst they're out of the car.
Most of the wiring that will be going to the rear of the car is done. Consisting of, door speakers being routed to the rear, dash speakers routed to the rear, removal of old speaker wiring and the battery cable being routed to the engine bay. I figure that I'll throw my interior together this weekend (aside from the column) and take many hours to go through my EVTM and see what wiring I can remove from under the dash. Since many of those "oh so fancy" 80s luxury features have been removed for the greater good.
Last night I removed the cruise control wiring since he no longer has any of the other stuff to make it work. Relayed the door locks to make the keyless entry work. Which was a 10 dollar china special. It appears to work now that I did a little digging online. None of the wiring diagrams made any sense for the type of door locks the box panthers use. The wiring is not finalized as I just dicked with it this morning to see if the dumb thing would actually work. Waiting for the ringleader to wake up to see where he wants to mount the stupid thing.
Also I ran a wire from the brake switch to the back for a third brake light assembly Logan picked up. Works great. He went a little overboard on the bracket to secure the assembly to the rear deck. But hey. It'll probably never move lol.
So it seems that the T5 is a direct bolt in. I put the '85 yoke on the '03 driveshaft.
After a quick call to Ryan (Dr Grabber Green) I found out that you need to use an air hammer to get the crossmember out. It's also much heavier and stronger than the box one. But it utilizes a style to which you slide it in from the bottom, use a block to pound up into it and then through bolt it into its mounts. It also likes to seize in there from corrosion. It wasn't nice and easy to remove. Though, I'm going to paint the entire thing and then put some anti seize on the sides of it when reinstalling. But other than that, the t5 bolts right into it, I then measured the bellhousing mounting surface to the engine mount location (on the block) and came up with 8.5 inches. There after, measuring 8.5" out from the bellhousing and my '67 Fairlane engine mount to figure out that it's going to be insanely easy to make these engine mount blocks. The blocks will be made out of 2.5" box tubing, 3/16" thick and 1/2" Schedule 80 pipe. Pics will come, Nick ordered the steel and should be here tuesday.
Oh and the RockAuto carpet is FANTASTIC. Fits beautifully and is very good quality, I'd say that it's comparable to OE.
I also did some bracing on the rear deck, since it started to get some waves in it from the speakers that were previously in there. It's about a 1/4 piece of fern stripping.
Thats what they changed the trans cross member to? Finally someone got the idea to use that to stiffen the frame. The old box cross member is pretty pathetic in that department. They bend pretty easy and the ends rot out on them as well. Wonder what it would take to retrofit that into the old frame.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Thats what they changed the trans cross member to? Finally someone got the idea to use that to stiffen the frame. The old box cross member is pretty pathetic in that department. They bend pretty easy and the ends rot out on them as well. Wonder what it would take to retrofit that into the old frame.
Or you could just frame swap and get all the goodies.
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