85.03 Crown Vic Coupe "CVGT"

[Bobcat]

Looking good, so much easier to run those lines while the bodys off! Did you say you used 1/4" for the fuel line? That's too small for the power you are making based on what I'm finding, this doesn't even list 1/4":

* Up to 375HP = 5/16" or -04 AN
* Up to 550HP = 3/8" or -06 AN
* Up to 800HP = 1/2" or -08 AN
* Up to 1200HP = 5/8" or -10 AN

Take that chart with a grain of salt though, a lot of mis-matched info online, however no one seems to be running 1/4 on anything that makes decent power.

Fuel RETURN LINE Philip.

Fuel sender line will be in 5/16s

The 351 ran pretty damned good as it was, so I don't think this'll hurt. Just don't pull a zoomie and port the water jackets, guy..

The water jackets are next on the porting list, once I find a Towncar to slicktop.


There will hopefully be some eventful updates tonights

[Brown_Muscle]

Good man, just making sure.

[gadget73]

Just watch how deep you go. I understand that its real easy to get water cooled exhaust when porting P heads if you grind just a wee bit too much in the wrong place.

The drilled/slotted thing is often a waste. Done wrong it can really add stress to the rotor just from machining heat, which makes them inclined to warping with use.

[Bobcat]

Just watch how deep you go. I understand that its real easy to get water cooled exhaust when porting P heads if you grind just a wee bit too much in the wrong place.

The drilled/slotted thing is often a waste. Done wrong it can really add stress to the rotor just from machining heat, which makes them inclined to warping with use.

They're dotted and slotted, the Internet raises more of a concern about this than how often it happens; I know of MANY drilled and slotted cars that have no problems, I chose dotted instead of drilled - so that I could retain more rigidity in the rotor in case something such as that was ever to happen, since I'll likely attempt to do some autocross with this thing and will drive it like a maniac when It's reinstated as Daily Driver status. My heads are normal GT40s so I assume I don't have that problem? In all honesty I wouldn't ever buy P heads because the wee bit of gain isn't worth the hassle to me.




UPDATE 2/26/16


Rolled the frame outside and rolled the box back in, I only got to taking off the header panel before I ended up leaving for a little bit and coming back later.




Got home at 8:00PM and worked until 10:30 and just a couple more things accomplished...









Tomorrow, after I get back from picking up my poverty chariot which is 1 1/2 hours away, I'll get back into working on it.. It's pretty easy work, not even that time consuming. I tend to just get in a grind and just keep going until I get bored.

[gadget73]

I think the original GT40 has a little more meat in there, but they aren't super thick either. As long as you stick to smoothing and polishing you're plenty fine, when you get into trying to hog things out in a major way you can run into trouble. Much of the reading I've done on porting indicates that less is often more anyway. Its more about having the right shape and a proper radius in the valve area than just big-ass holes in the head.

[gabegt90]

Coming along great Logan looks great

[Bobcat]

Alright well here's the update from yesterday.
I got a couple things done..

















The wheels fit the wheel wells beautifully.

Still waiting on my goddamn body mounts, I think I'm going to order them from somewhere else and just get a refund on the ones I originally ordered. Goddamn shifty Ebay sellers.

[87gtVIC]

Fuck yeah. Kicking some ass there.


The emblems on the roof (LTD Crown Victoria script) are held on by two or three posts with thin metal washer pushed over the posts securing them to the roof. A good yank should result in reversing the effect of the fasteners or breaking them or the emblem.

[Bobcat]

Fuck yeah. Kicking some ass there.


The emblems on the roof (LTD Crown Victoria script) are held on by two or three posts with thin metal washer pushed over the posts securing them to the roof. A good yank should result in reversing the effect of the fasteners or breaking them or the emblem.

Yeaahhhhhh, I found out that exact thing on the driver's side. Maybe I'll take more precaution on the passenger's, dunno if they're gonna go back on, probably not.

Waiting on my carpet to get here and then I'll start throwing the interior fully together.

Mustang seats are basically set, mounting wise.

[87gtVIC]

When I removed the vinyl top I removed the entire interior to get to all the fasteners above the head liner and behind the interior sail panels/.

[Bobcat]

When I removed the vinyl top I removed the entire interior to get to all the fasteners above the head liner and behind the interior sail panels/.

Mine has been all apart, I took my headliner out to get all that shit out.

I love the bags full of insulation stuff in the pillars.

[packman]

Wow!!! The box body just drops on the whale frame? No mods? In any event, it looks right as you mentioned.

Packman

[87gtVIC]

Mine has been all apart, I took my headliner out to get all that shit out.

I love the bags full of insulation stuff in the pillars.

You can find those bags stuffed behind the kick panels as well.

[gadget73]

Makes it quieter. There are even more of them on up-trim Lincolns. The Mark VII has them inside the fenders, which is probably why you find them with rotted out lower front fender corners. They also have one up front and it sucks into the air cleaner assembly if you remove the silencer.

[Brown_Muscle]

The other guy who did this...i recall him having some sort of firewall issue. I'm also interested in how you'll join the rack and pinion system to the steering shaft.