I call it the Monolith. I have plans for it.

[gadget73]

thats more or less a plumber's torch, which is just acetylene and air. Should get the job done, just takes longer. Can also get oxy-mapp rigs. Just don't get a lot of burn time out of those, the oxygen goes quick.

bottled gas has gotten kind of dumb in price over the last 10 years or so. I know some people are converting to oxy-propane just because the acetylene has gotten expensive.

[ootdega]

I can't afford anything fancy, so that's a problem. I dunno if the nozzle on a standard torch will be long enough to reach the bolts. I can barely fit the Rube Goldberg contraption I've been using in there, and my hands don't fit. I can't even use a 1/2 inch drive, because it's too thick to get on there straight. I'll see what I can come up with. This is already looking expensive.

Just broke another 3/8 swivel joint. Fun times. This whole thing is really starting get on my nerves.

[Mainemantom]

Do you have a 3/8 swivel joint that is made for air guns ? A bit more heavy duty.

[ootdega]

I got one yesterday after returning the broken one for warranty. It held up, but the impact driver still tore it up quite a bit. The locking extension fell apart, so now the swivel is stuck to it forever. C'est la vie.



I got a Bernzomatic Map-Pro torch.

One came off with just the impact. The nut stayed in place. The stud came out of the manifold instead.

The other one turned a few times, but eventually stopped. I did as advised and heated it up until it was glowing red. After two hours of swearing, the nut is now rounded off completely.

Mission failed.

Dremel it is.

[ootdega]

There.



Steel turns that color at 540F.

Flanges are loose, just need to get the rest out of the way. The clamps on the smog pipes don't look like they'll be much more fun. One of them will definitely need to be cut. Gonna replace all of this hardware with stainless pieces.

Depression has set in hard and is making this much more difficult. Spent most of the last three days asleep.

[sly]

progress is progress. A little done is still something done. Keep moving and it will eventually be done. Rest when you need to rest. It will wait for you.

[ootdega]

Progress is indeed progress. Thanks


So I got all three of these off the smog pipes. They all needed to be cut. They only go one way. Once I got all of them off and I could take a clear look at everything, I realized what they are and my heart sank a bit.

They are crimping bolts.



The smog pipes are both rusted and crimped on. There isn't enough give to bang them off with heat or anything. The only reasonable solution is to cut them. I will have to replace the cut pipes with heatproof braided stainless hose or something. That isn't going to be cheap, but it's all I can think of. I could remove it from the smog pump itself, but that presents its own brand of canned worms.

One solution leads to three more problems. I guess I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.

[VicCrownVic]

I can usually get the trans in and out without messing with the smog pipes. (We're talking about the air injection tubes that connect to the cats if I'm not mistaken.)
If you must cut them, I wonder if this cheap idea would work as a temporary fix: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-3-...B&gclsrc=aw.ds from Home Depot or similar. Unfortunately I don't know the actual diameter of those tubes.

In addition use some exhaust sealer such as https://www.autozone.com/emission-co...B&gclsrc=aw.ds since that coupler will leak.

Otherwise, I can't imagine an exhaust shop charging that much to fix those little pipes.

[ootdega]

Yeah, "air injection tube," I discovered earlier.

That might work. My first thought was a connector like this https://www.grainger.com/product/4FJY2 which I could get welded onto one end and then just thread the bung to match. Maybe just bridge it with a short hose like that one. Or just use the hose instead. A replacement tube does exist, but it's 90 dollars.

I had to remove it because it was keeping the exhaust suspended in place. Couldn't move it. It was either this or remove the tube from the pump itself. I didn't have this problem before because the tube runs between the converters, and the junkyard cuts the converters out. I really, REALLY did not foresee the exhaust being such an issue.


I got that dealt with, removed the muffler bracket (very robust setup, frankly; much more than the 1990, which just used a second hanger), cut the exhaust hanger (screw it). Now I just need to get the tire out of the way and I can finally move the fuck on.

[ootdega]

Thought about it, and it'd probably be for the best if I just got everything welded back together.


Switched gears and tackled the rear end this time. The axles and bearings are fine. The differential looks like the clutches might be damaged. That might have caused them to engage when they shouldn't. The left brake drum was a massive pain in the ass to remove. The cause of the wobble-vibration I was feeling might have something to do with that.

The S-spring was missing from the differential, so the spider gears just fell out once the roll pin was removed. I don't think that was supposed to happen.

I suspect the left rear brake was slightly misadjusted, and the drum itself has ovaled out. I have spare drums, so I'll put those on, and back off the shoes a tick or two.

But I already have the whole damn thing apart, so I might as well put the 31-spline parts in either way. Tomorrow I will be going to Meridian to get the P71 axles done. Had I known I would be in this situation, I would have done this back when gas was 2 dollars. But I had a working car at the time, so it didn't cross my mind.


Clarification: I had a used Mustang Trac-Lok put in a while back. It's saved my ass a couple times. I'll be replacing it with a Cobra diff.

[ootdega]

I found the problem.

Ring gear is damaged. Pinion gear probably is too. Can't tell without removing it. Gear lash was in spec. Pinion depth is probably the cause. Clutches were actually fine.

It probably isn't safe to put this back in. Even if it is, I have to fix the pinion depth anyway, so I might as well swap them. I have another set that are the same ratio, but things just got a lot more difficult and the completion time just took yet another hit.



life is naught but pain, misery, suffering, and anguish

a blink of existence, both preceded and followed by oblivion

all shall return to the inescapable void in despair

[ootdega]

Went back to the transmission, because I can't afford the five specific tools required for the differential right now, and the transmission doesn't require special tools. I am supremely broke, and will remain that way for the next three and a half weeks.

I've almost got the transmission out, except I can't figure out how to get the linkage free. I've got all visible bolts off. The only thing left I can think of is removing the bracket the manual rod is attached to. It's a folded steel bracket attached to the frame. I don't want to try taking that off if I can help it, because the bolts holding it on are very small, I can't fit a ratchet in there, and by the look of them I strongly doubt they will come out without a fight. I only foresee rounding them off and breaking my knuckles.

Do I have any other options? Am I missing something?

[Brown_Muscle]

If I’m picturing what you’re talking about, the linkage pops apart at the plastic bushings. I believe I used A pair of pliers to do it. It shouldn’t take a ton of force but that should do it

[ootdega]

Here's what I'm talking about. I'm not really seeing where I could use pliers, and I'm stuck until I can get this detached.

I was able to get a ratchet on the bolts I just mentioned by moving the shift lever. That gave me enough space to get the rod out, but this part is still a problem.

[jaywish]

I remember that being a real PITA and needing a new bushing.