My 1989 Crown Victoria.

[slack]

I did an oil change today on my car and while I was at AutoZone, I saw some Ford touch up paint that was similar to the color that my car is. I was hoping it would be close because I have the whole front clip that's mismatched. lol

Looks like it was a little too white. Oh well. Now I have three different colors going on at that front corner.


I also finally took some pics of my car during the day when it was sunny out.

[HiFiMerc]

Check the paint code on the door. You might be able to order touch up paint for it. I was able to order some paint (in a spray can) for my 92 when I repainted the mirror caps.

[slack]

Thanks! I don't know why I didn't think of doing that. lol

I just checked and my paint code is 6V Pastel Adobe.

Looks like this place has it for pretty cheap: http://www.automotivetouchup.com/tou...89/all-models/

I'm guessing I could get a paint gun or use one of these things (Preval Sprayer) from Home Depot to spray on from a can of paint.

...or spend more and just go the spray can route.

I think I might also look into just going somewhere local and seeing home much it would cost for a paint shop to spray it. I'm getting my taxes back soon so I might have a little extra money to throw around.

[HiFiMerc]

No problem. Any auto parts store could probably order the Dupli-color or whatever.

Don't be surprised if a shop tells you several thousand dollars to paint your car.

[slack]

Yeah I'm afraid of the few thousand dollar price tag. I was thinking maybe it would be cheaper if they were just painting the front clip. Maybe I should stick to the rattle cans for the time being. (That's what I used on the trunk already...)

[slack]

Car has been pulling to the left pretty bad every time I brake. In Dec/Jan I replaced the rear shoes, drums and wheel cylinders. I then replaced the front pads and bled the brakes. I noticed that the driver's side front brake pad had a lot more wear than the passenger side. I'm not sure if that side is sticking or the passenger side isn't engaging all the way. I've read to replace calipers in pairs so I ordered new hoses, calipers and all the goodies from RockAuto. Packages should be here this Tuesday and hopefully next weekend I'll be able to tackle this.

I'm just praying that the metal brake line connector isn't seized up / rusted solid where it connects to the rubber line...

[87gtVIC]

Make sure to use a line wrench for that job. You could just run new lines from the prop. valve if anything give you a fight.

[chitownvic]

Wow! You got one awesome project man! You deserve a gold plated award lol!


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[PICKUP6772]

Where on the Island are you located? Might be interested in the 88-91 bumper fillers.

MIKE

[packman]

I'm just praying that the metal brake line connector isn't seized up / rusted solid where it connects to the rubber line...

Yeah, I lubed mine with Kroil for a few months and it snapped anyways. Good luck and do what Gadget said. Also, lube the fitting at the prop valve/distribution block just in case. It will save you time in the event the line snaps and you have to replace it.



Packman

[jaywish]

My $.02

Might not be a half bad idea to check both front lines for any rust. If there is rust install new lines now.
If you can afford a bit more time check the line to the rear and the 2 lines over the rear axle.

The first place my brake lines rusted out was the rear line from the master just along and under the firewall.

I do not always take my own advice and usually regret not taking it.

[chitownvic]

I second this I've replaced them on two cars.. And fuel lines ugh!


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[slack]

Where on the Island are you located? Might be interested in the 88-91 bumper fillers.

MIKE

Hey Mike. Sorry. The bumper fillers and all that got sold early in Feb to a guy that just got into an accident and needed a replacement. I still have the dash trim floating around here if anyone's interested in that though...

Here's an example of the dash trim. I also have the radio surround as well as the speedo trim but that appears to be packed away somewhere at the moment.


Thanks for the heads up everyone and thanks for the POTM! I took a quick look at what I'm dealing with today while I was on lunch at work... it's better than I thought but it's by no means "good". I'm also seeing a bit more rot overall than I thought there was by the upper control arm. Ack. The good news is that there's already new brake lines from the master cylinder to both the rears. Front lines don't look too good but hopefully they'll be okay for a little longer. I'm guessing my choices on replacing the line would be to bend and flare my own or see if there's any non-rotted ones at the JY. (Doubtful around here.) Hopefully some lube and heat and they'll come right off.

Here's what it looks like on the driver's side:


Also, my brake goodies came today from RockAuto! I picked up some caliper paint (just regular silver) to give them a quick once over to keep the surface rust away down the road.

[slack]

So, I had to pick up some new Craftsman line wrenches because the cheap-o ones I had weren't the right size and they were just going to strip the holy hell out of the connectors. I also picked up some map gas so I can heat the line to get it off. (I was all out) We'll see how that goes in the next few days.

It was nice out today so I got around to painting the new calipers.

Taped off: I probably over taped these things but I figured the paint was optional anyway...


Painted:

[jaywish]

That brake line looks pretty rusty.

Good idea on getting a decent set of wrenches. Get a spool of E Coated brake line, a double flare tool, a mini tubing cutter, at least 8 fittings and a female/female connector (I would get two to have a spare).

When I replaced the right front line I put a connector under the engine. I felt I got better bends at each end by doing the line in two parts. The original was put in before the engine, so it was easy for ford to do it in one piece. Not so easy for me if I wanted no rub points.