Bad news for my 85 CV

[fmansfield444]

It is actually a 2100 carb that I'm using now. I replaced the diaphragm and no leaks at all. Now I just need it timed right and tuned which luckily my dad knows a lot about carbs so I can learn about them because I really don't know much about them.

I was looking at it more today and it has a second spot under the throttle lever where my current tv cable will fit perfectly and will have a 1:1 ratio with the throttle so ill have to look into that and adjust the cable. My SEFI throttle cable is too short though and ill need to find my CFI one.

[fmansfield444]

I got off of school early today and made huge progress on my box. It is now road legal and can be driven... So longs it doesn't rain lol.

I first put some new wheel wells in. Then i started wiring. I started wiring all of the headlights, turn signals, horn. The headlights took a long time because I went with 2 dual beam 4666 bulbs because I will be deleting the 2 high only bulbs for air tunnels.

I had to start from scratch so I went ahead and added headlight relays, along with fuses. I wired them into the SEFI EEC relay housing which I still need to mount on the fender.





As you can see it was a mess with wires everywhere. I cut up my old CFI harness for all the wires, but ran new for high current things.

Then I cleaned it all up and stuffed it in wire loom. Still have a few stragglers but I'm not completely done wiring yet, still need to power my windows, seats, radio, and I'm going to run some gauges. Then ill tape it all shut.

Also noticed my resistor wire was getting really hot so I wrapped it in foil, this is what was done in the factory harness so I hope that's okay. Any ideas on how I can reduce that heat? Don't want another fire.




It looks pretty clean, not done yet but it's coming along.

I also blacked the inner headlights out for now until I get some air funnels. I think it looks pretty sweet. I'm also going to run with my melted grill and charcoaled hood until I get a grand marquis header panel and hood to swap in.

[sly]

+1 run the charcoal'd/melted stuff.

[fmansfield444]

I noticed today that I do have an issue with the rear turn signals and brake lights.

They work fine until I turn on the headlights. With the headlights on, and therefor the rear tails, the brake lights aren't working neither are the turn flashers.

My third high light works fine. Maybe the tails are actually the brake lights on? The brighter filament stays on? I'm not sure. Any clues on this? Ill look at it some more tomorrow and see. Maybe I have the wires switched so the low brightness is the brake not sure but I didn't even touch the wiring past the firewall.

[jaywish]

I had funny problems on the brake/turn signals. It turned out to be the multifunction switch had high resistance in some of the contacts. It is not really hard to get it out for testing, each of the two connectors has two clips. The evtm has a trouble tree to evaluate the switch with an ohm meter.

Still with all your custom work it seems less promising to go looking at some new component. Also could be low amp output from the alternator. If you have the lights off and put on other draws like the rear defog and the blower fan, not AC, do you have the same problem?

[fmansfield444]

If you have the lights off and put on other draws like the rear defog and the blower fan, not AC, do you have the same problem?

Nah I don't have any of that fancy stuff yet lol. This could be worth checking out though since I did get a junkyard alternator. But if that's the case, nothing else seems to not work with the headlights on. The headlights are probably my biggest power sucker on the car right now, so I can't really test this yet. Although my rear defrost may work now,
i haven't really tried it honestly. I'll try turning that on and see if they mess up. Thanks

[sly]

+1 multifunction switch.

[fmansfield444]

Today I cleaned out all of the ashes, and fire extinguisher residue from the interior, so now everything's not all white and smells like fire. Still having the issue with the rear signals, but I will check into the multifunction switch, to be honest I'm not sure that they weren't acting this way before the fire, I hadn't really checked. Also, the only breather top I found that fit the old carb was an old 289 breather, which has seen better days, but it will work for now. I will be making a dual snorkel eventually since they are pretty hard to find, and ridiculously expensive on eBay. Also will need to get this tuned again since I rebuilt the carburetor the other day and it is now running a little on the rich side.

Also a went ahead and stripped my burnt hood and repainted it flat black. Really just wanted some painting practice since the hood is garbage anyway. It's the first time I really ever used a spray gun to paint with so it definitely isn't perfect.

[jaywish]

To adjust carb you need a tach.

Warm up the engine.

Determine the idle RPM you want. 550 rpm in gear? Put the car nose against a wall. Do not blip the throttle or the car will move. Adjust idle screw to achieve desired idle.

Turn the right idle jet screw in until the engine speed drops a bit. Do this by turning it 1/4 turn pause and review the effect, if a noticeable drop did not result, repeat 1/4 turn in with pause for effect. Repeat till drop is achieved.

The engine should still idle fairly well at this point, no lower than say 500-475 rpm if you were starting at 550.

Turn the left jet screw in in similar fashion till an additional small rpm drop is achieved.

Now turn the right jet screw "OUT" again 1/4 turn at a time and pause. Keep an eye on tach. The engine speed should gradually increase. When the speed stops increasing stop at that point. You may have to turn it back in and then out to find the sweet spot.

Turn the left jet screw out in like manner till max rpm is reached.

Now adjust the idle screw back to desired rpm.

Repeat the adjustments on the jet screws at first lowering idle slightly then finding the max setting.

Adjust the idle screw to desired rpm again.

Eventually the max setting on the jet screws will give you the desired rpm. Then you do what is called a "lean roll" and turn in each jet screw 1/4 turn. Make final adjustment with idle speed screw if necessary.

The engine should idle smooth and reasonably lean at this point.

I used to like adjusting carbs back in the day. It was relaxing and satisfying.

[fmansfield444]

To adjust carb you need a tach.

Warm up the engine.

Determine the idle RPM you want. 550 rpm in gear? Put the car nose against a wall. Do not blip the throttle or the car will move. Adjust idle screw to achieve desired idle.

Turn the right idle jet screw in until the engine speed drops a bit. Do this by turning it 1/4 turn pause and review the effect, if a noticeable drop did not result, repeat 1/4 turn in with pause for effect. Repeat till drop is achieved.

The engine should still idle fairly well at this point, no lower than say 500-475 rpm if you were starting at 550.

Turn the left jet screw in in similar fashion till an additional small rpm drop is achieved.

Now turn the right jet screw "OUT" again 1/4 turn at a time and pause. Keep an eye on tach. The engine speed should gradually increase. When the speed stops increasing stop at that point. You may have to turn it back in and then out to find the sweet spot.

Turn the left jet screw out in like manner till max rpm is reached.

Now adjust the idle screw back to desired rpm.

Repeat the adjustments on the jet screws at first lowering idle slightly then finding the max setting.

Adjust the idle screw to desired rpm again.

Eventually the max setting on the jet screws will give you the desired rpm. Then you do what is called a "lean roll" and turn in each jet screw 1/4 turn. Make final adjustment with idle speed screw if necessary.

The engine should idle smooth and reasonably lean at this point.

I used to like adjusting carbs back in the day. It was relaxing and satisfying.

Yeah, I don't know much about them but I had it tuned pretty well before the rebuild, but then the valve behind the accelerator pump broke off in the carb and I went ahead and rebuilt the whole thing. Now I'll need to tune it again. My dad seems to know a lot about them and he helped me tune it before. The first time we tuned it from a vacuum gauge, got it tuned to achieve the highest vacuum and as lean as possible without compromising idle. Before the rebuild it was pulling 20" on the vac gauge, which is what it was at with SEFI as well.

The vacuum gauge tuning was before the car was driveable though, so I'm sure he will tune it differently now that the TV cable is hooked up and we can see how it actually drives.

The thing I like about this old carb is how simple it is, no vacuum mess like the 80's carburetors.

[fmansfield444]

Got around to installing some gauges today, nothing too special but I definitely like knowing whats going on when I'm driving/Tuning. I picked up this sunpro 3 gauge set at a yardsale awhile back for like $5 or something. Included was a temp, volt, and oil pressure gauge. I also have a harbor freight special boost gauge which doubles as a vacuum gauge. Got them all hooked up except the oil pressure gauge as I think i might need to lift the car and I wasn't in the mood for doing that today. I'll get it installed soon though.

Temporarily mounted them in spot of the ashtray, who needs an ashtray anyway. But will eventually make a console for them. Other than tucking the wires and stuff back though they don't look too bad where they are now.




Also decided to keep this within reach now lol

[sly]

I keep one in my trunk.

[fmansfield444]

It seems I will need the whole plastic windshield wiper cowl thing that covers the arms, and the motor bolts too. I know the one my car originally had was very big and hung over the engine badly especially with the SEFI intake. If I were to get one from a later box would the cowl still bolt up? Maybe even an aero?

I know the wiper motors are different between early boxes and later boxes because they have a completely different plug too allow more room for the SEFI intake.

I'd like the smallest one possible so I still have room to work around the back of the engine

[sly]

should be the same up to 91. 92 changed quite a bit. up to 89 for sure.

[fmansfield444]

My car is brown now! It's just primer, and still needs plenty of sanding and more primer, and sanding, and all that fun stuff, but body work has been started. This is my first time ever using a spray gun, and first time painting a car so I don't expect it to come out all that great, plus its being done outside, but it will do its job of keeping rust away and it will be a learning experience, which in all honesty is why I bought the car.