Mmmm foood
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Bison (1990 Grand Marquis)
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03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
02 SL500 Silver Arrow
08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>06 Mustang Bullet Rims 235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners
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Fucking great, I'm getting rained on and I can't get the inner wheel bearing off. Nothing can ever be simple for me... You should be able to pull the bearing and the seal right out right? Well it sure as hell doesn't want to come out and every time I try to pry the seal it bends, so... I guess I'll just keep trying and getting rained on
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I forgot what I used to remove the seal, but don't worry about destroying it, since you're replacing it anyways. Needlenose pliers will probably work. When you put the new seal in I just tapped it down lightly with a hammer.
1989 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series | 249k miles, current project car
2018 BMW 430i xDrive M-Sport | 50k miles
2018 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport | 97k miles
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Tap it out from the other side.03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
02 SL500 Silver Arrow
08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>06 Mustang Bullet Rims 235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners
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Yeah, lol, I was worrying about damaging it because I WASN'T planning on replacing it due to lack of understanding and lack of ... well, planning. I definitely will be now though and I'll be sure to have everything I need but for the time being I just put it all back together because there's a possibility of flash flooding they say... yet it stopped raining right when I got everything put away. I hate the weathermen as much as I hate not having a garage.
Back to the parts store for bearings, seals, and also new cotter pins then I'll be ready to go as soon as it stops raining.
And when I put the new pads and rotor on then pumped the brakes it's like the pads are slightly rubbing along the rotor now when I spin the wheel... is this normal?
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Weather and my personal life have really been getting in the way of my shadetree mehanic work lately. But I just finished putting new boots and drums on my rear brakes. The old ones really didn't seem that worn down, neither did the front rotors and pads, but they were squeeking and I notice an increase in stopping power so, I don't know. I think I'll hold on to all the old shit and maybe post a picture to see what you guys think, they might be worth holding on to in case I need them later on down the road, I dunno. Either way its all new now but I do still have to take off the front right rotor again to replace the wheel bearings and the seal with new ones so they match up on both sides and I also need to bleed the lines and get all new fluid in still. I think I'll pay someone to do that because time is running out and I have a road trip coming up soon.
Question: Is it bad that my rear passenger side drum brake piston was leaking a little bit of brake fluid after the job (but not before)?
And as for my previous question about the pads rubbing against the rotors, my drivers side was doing this as well before the brake job so either it's normal or it's just my filthy brake fluid acting funny.
Thanks
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Originally posted by BuffaloRider View PostQuestion: Is it bad that my rear passenger side drum brake piston was leaking a little bit of brake fluid after the job (but not before)?
If it was replaced then it sounds like it may be bad right out of the box, assuming it's not leaking at the fitting where the brake line connects to it.Vic
~ 1989 MGM LS Colony Park - Large Marge
~ 1998 MGM LS - new DD
~ 1991 MGM LS "The Scab"
~ 1991 MGM GS "The Ice Car"
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Leaking brake fluid is always bad.2020 Volvo XC90 T6 Momentum (Ice White / Blonde)
2022 Ram 1500 4x4 5.7 Etorque, Built to Serve Edition, (Granite Crystal / Black)
Past Panthers
1989 Grand Marquis LS (Cabernet/Grey), 1989 Lincoln Town Car SS (White/Blue), 2004 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate (White/Black)
Originally posted by Lincolnmania
if its got tits or tires it's bound to give you trouble
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I didn't replace the wheel cylinders and it is not leaking from the line, it's from the two pistons, specifically the one pointed towards the front. That sucks. Oh well. Hopefully they don't cost too much and I can manage to throw em in before august. Or better yet maybe the problem will fix itself...probably not though. Nothings ever simple.
I'm hoping to have new tires, exhaust installed, and brakes finished and flushed by august 8th. There is a big family gathering out of state and I MUST get there no matter what. I've made it every year for the last 5 years and it's why I bought this car last year... to make this trip.
Hey that reminds me, I've owned this car for about a year now. Sweet. Many more years to come.
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I would SERIOUSLY suggest replacing BOTH sides wheel cylinders!!
"Hope and dignity are two things NO ONE can take away from you - you have to relinquish them on your own" Miamibob
"NEVER trade your passion for glory"!! Sal "the Bard" (Dear Old Dad!)
"Cars are for driving - PERIOD! I DON'T TEXT, TWEET OR TWERK!!!!"
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Originally posted by miamibob View PostI would SERIOUSLY suggest replacing BOTH sides wheel cylinders!!Originally posted by t65neon5 View Postshould be about 10 bucks a piece for new wheel cylinders (10 inch drum)
Usually when I remove the wheel cylinders the brake lines are so rusted that they need replacing or the end breaks off thanks to rust.
If you run into this problem then you'll need to replace the line.
The line is probably less than 3 feet on each side and goes from each wheel cylinder to a junction mounted on top of the differential housing.
If you need to replace the lines then you'll want to get a hold of a flaring tool. Also the line ends that screw into the junction on the diff housing on mine the driver side line end fitting was the same as the wheel cylinders but on the passenger side the fitting was a different size (the threaded portion was larger diameter iirc).
I don't remember the size of the line end fittings but I believe the brake line itself is 1/4 inch brake line. If it needs replacing cut a small section out and take it and the end fittings along to the parts store to be sure.Vic
~ 1989 MGM LS Colony Park - Large Marge
~ 1998 MGM LS - new DD
~ 1991 MGM LS "The Scab"
~ 1991 MGM GS "The Ice Car"
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Well I just replaced 7 of the 8 spark plugs yesterday and will probably be trying to get the 8th and install my wires, rotor cap, and all that other stuff that came with the tune up kit tonight. I was having a hell of a time getting the third one back from the front on the passenger side, hopefully I can get it tonight.
I just cleaned up my trunk a bit and threw my "new" lincoln rims in it and I'll be stopping at the discount tire place to see what kind of white walls they can put on it today. I'm happy about that.
The clock is ticking and it won't be long before my trip to Illinois so I really have to get the ball rolling
This weekend I'll be replacing the wheel cylinders on my drum brakes hopefully with no problems, and while it's jacked up I'll also change the rear differential fluid and the transmission fluid.
I'm still on the fence on whether or not I'll do the shocks and coil springs myself... specifically the springs are what worry me...
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