Bison (1990 Grand Marquis)

[Rodentkiller]

Never use a Hyaynes manuels they are so effing wrong in all aspectes of auto repair. I resort to using the factory Ford repair manuel and it has saved my a double ss many times.

[Mainemantom]

Never use a Hyaynes manuels they are so effing wrong in all aspectes of auto repair. I resort to using the factory Ford repair manuel and it has saved my a double ss many times.

X1 on that !

[87gtVIC]

OOOOHHHH! Well hot damn, I thought those threaded studs were part of the upper and until just now I didn't realize that they could just be unscrewed. You sir are a great help, and I... well... I need to pay closer attention and use my brain more lol.

No problem. Hopefully it helps you out. Sometimes they are really stick in there! So make sure you have a GOOD set of vice grips to really get a hold of it.

[BuffaloRider]

Never use a Hyaynes manuels they are so effing wrong in all aspectes of auto repair. I resort to using the factory Ford repair manuel and it has saved my a double ss many times.

Yeah, I realized that after looking through it when I first got it, definitely not very detailed at all. I've got a factory ford manual on it's way, hell it might even be in the mail when I get home from work.

[BuffaloRider]

Well, time for an update. I successfully took my dash apart and replaced my heater core a few weeks ago, big victory for me. You can read more about that here...

http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?48907-Replacing-this-heater-core-is-harder-than-I-expected

I also replaced the radiator and all the hoses. I still have a lot of work to do that I've been kind of putting off, but I'm getting there. The most important thing on the list at the moment is BRAKES! I've never done brakes before but there's a first time for everything. I've watched tons of videos about it on youtube and I'm pretty sure I'm ready to get it done, I know Bison is ready, he screams at me every time I come to stop "hey fucker! Still waiting on those brakes!"

I went to Advanced Auto Parts to pick up the shit I need and the guy asked me "10" or 11" on the drums" ... uhhhhh, I dunno. I'm pretty sure the 11" would be on the wagons/come with the towing package so I'm thinking mine are 10...

So, do I have 10" or 11" drums?

Should I just get off my lazy ass, pull a wheel off and measure? lol

Thanks.

[L1011tristar17]

Front brakes are really easy. I did those for the first time about a month ago and they work great. No more warped rotors! If you are doing the rotors you might as well redo the wheel bearings too. They're cheap to begin with and you have to remove them anyways when you pull the old rotors off.

Never did the drums before, but I heard those aren't terribly hard either. Just remember where all the springs and hooks go.

[BuffaloRider]

Yeah, I'll be taking pictures to make sure I get it all back together in the right order. Wheel bearings? Well I guess I could throw those on the list. I'm pretty sure I've got 10" drums, thats what my ford manual says and I doubt the old folks before me upgraded. I've got the pads and rotors showing up at AAP tomorrow, I've got to get my shit straight so I know what else to have them get.

2 10" drums, 2 drum rebuild kits, 2 sets of boots, 2 wheel bearings for the front, and some high temperature lubrication.
If anyone else has suggestions PLEASE let me know.

Also I forgot to mention that I've currently got a thousand bucks to put on my car thanks to my momster, then it's back to scrounging when that's gone. After the brakes I'll be getting wheels (prolly cheapo white wall falkens) and then having my used dual exhaust setup installed including two new catalytic converters, and a set of 1990 lincoln town car headers, all of which I've already acquired. Then if I have anything left over... I dunno, maybe suspension... or I might just get my shit tinted lol.

[VicCrownVic]

I went to Advanced Auto Parts to pick up the shit I need and the guy asked me "10" or 11" on the drums" ... uhhhhh, I dunno. I'm pretty sure the 11" would be on the wagons/come with the towing package so I'm thinking mine are 10...

So, do I have 10" or 11" drums?

Should I just get off my lazy ass, pull a wheel off and measure? lol

Thanks.

Unless someone previously made some changes you would be correct, you should have 10" drums.

[VicCrownVic]

Yeah, I'll be taking pictures to make sure I get it all back together in the right order. Wheel bearings? Well I guess I could throw those on the list. I'm pretty sure I've got 10" drums, thats what my ford manual says and I doubt the old folks before me upgraded. I've got the pads and rotors showing up at AAP tomorrow, I've got to get my shit straight so I know what else to have them get.

2 10" drums, 2 drum rebuild kits, 2 sets of boots, 2 wheel bearings for the front, and some high temperature lubrication.
If anyone else has suggestions PLEASE let me know.

Pictures will help for the rear drum brakes. As a beginner my dad had me take the drum off both sides then do one at a time that way if I got hung up on something while putting it back together I could look the the other side to get an idea how it should work. Although iirc things are reversed from side to side but same idea for both sides.

[Piece-it pete]

One side at a time X 1million. Drums aren't rocket science but you have to kinda get used to them, there will be a learning curve. And probably some swearing Take a hard look at how the self adjusting mechanism works, it'll help a lot if you ever have to adjust it through the access hole in the backing plate with a brake spoon.

If you don't change them, front bearings should at least be repacked. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQYiA53vcxA You also need 'front wheel seals', 2 ea.

One thing I'd definitely consider is changing the 'wheel cylinders' when you do the rear brakes. They are cheap and usually easy, although you might want to use a flare nut wrench on the metal brake line coming into the back (cheap at Harbor Freight) (isn't everything there? ). Nothing like having nice new rear brakes, then having a 23 year old cylinder piss brake fluid all over your new shoes, ruining them.

I'd also change the caliper bushings - are those the 'boots' you're referring to? 2 ea per side.

On front brakes you 'might' want to consider changing the rubber pigtails that go from the frame to the caliper (hydraulic hose), I've had them fail on panic stops. There's also a pigtail going from the frame to the rear axle but I've never succeeded in changing one.

Main thing on the front brakes though, make sure all the slides are clean and the pins well lubed with high temp grease. I use spray anti squeak as well. And while you've got the tires off I'd just take a look around, inspect everything. I usually hit all the visible brake line joints with oil just because. It's a good time to do the front sway bar links if they look ugly.

Brakes are fun Good luck.

Pete

[sly]

FYI: if you measure the drums, it's inner diameter you want to measure. And yes, stock (non-tow package) Ford/Merc got 10" drums.

[jaywish]

Make sure you put the shoes in the correct spots. One on each side has longer material. I can not remember if the big ones go towards the front or the back. Think it is towards the rear.

Also there are two bearings on each of the front sides inner & outer iirc.

+1 brake hoses & wheel cylinders. But you need to be careful about the brake lines, and bleeder screws. Use bust rust or equiv, soak as you start the job and repeat before you get to that part. You really should have the appropriate line wrenches. You can probably find a usa made set on ebay or get Craftsman. If they do not have it is stock. I believe they will ship it to you with free shipping. Use a six point socket on the bleeder screws. Take your time and work each connection back and fourth a little. Even if you use the bust rust you may still twist a brake line or break a bleeder screw. If you break a bleeder screw you either need to get a reman/new caliper or remove the old screw which is a PITA. If you twist a brake line then you need to replace a section of line. Get coated line. They are available in different lengths but you may need to get a double flaring tool to customize the length. Thus you need to allow extra time for the almost inevitable problems.

Be aware that the brake hoses are keyed left and right for the front. If you do open the system have at least a quart of new fluid on hand to flush out all the air bubbles and all the old dirty, contaminated fluid.

Also before you do the job, inspect the wear on the front pads. If the wear is reasonably even right & left and inner and outer then you probably do not need calipers. If one or more pads is thinner than the others it is caliper time.

You did not mention brake pulse. The brake pedal does not vibrate or pulse when stopping? Then your rotors are probably ok.

If you need rotors and calipers, I really must suggest you consider the big brake upgrade if you have a friend who has done some front end work to help you out. This is a bit more advanced as you need to change the spindle (the part that the brakes mount to and the upper arm which holds the spindle. It also is usually the time to change the lower control arm bushings. So it does add to the expense and time but you get a larger rotor which is less likely to warp plus when it does go, it is cheaper to replace as the hub in no longer part of the rotor. Another upside/downside to the big brakes is the need to go to 16" rims. Finally after the big brakes are done then you are a long way towards completion of the front end overhaul.

[BuffaloRider]

When I apply the brakes very slowly the car stops at an irregular pace, like there's a low point where it looses friction then it catches a little more at the high spot. It just kind of lunges (ever so slightly) forward then slows down, lunges, slows, lunges, slows. That's the best way I can describe it, I guess that would be called "brake pulse", excuse my ignorance. Of course if I slam on the brakes it lets out a loud squeek then stops very suddenly so it's not like I have no stopping power, but it could definitely be a lot better. I think it's time for rotors, if not it still wouldn't hurt.

I'll be skipping the wheel bearings, brake hoses, and wheel cylinders for now but I will check the conditions of these things and if anything looks like it won't last another couple hundred miles then I'll get on it, but for the time being I have WAY too much shit to do this weekend so I'll save it for later.My taurus is finally going to the junkyard tomorrow and I really wish I had a backup vehicle. I've finally got the wife convinced that a newer grand marquis is the way to go but who knows when that'll be

And also I know I need to bleed the brakes and add all new fluid because it's looking pretty dark and nasty, but I have to manage my time as well as possible. I'm not ignoring all this stuff, just putting it off temporarily... temporarily being the key word. I greatly appreciate the suggestions everybody, well, time to get started.

[jaywish]

If you are going to do the rotors, they are a combination rotor and hub in the early years. More expensive and you have to remove the bearings to change the hub, so at the least, clean and re-grease them.

[BuffaloRider]

I'll definitely be cleaning and re-greasing them, I guess I should have just bought some like I was initially planning... but I didn't. Well looks like I won't be doing it today anyways, my mother in law is taking me out for a surprise birthday dinner... it's not like I'm busy or anything lol, but it would be rude not to go... and I'm hungry.