My $600 1989 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series(Beverely)

[Brown_Muscle]

Got to get some gold package parts for the outside now

that way it will follow the theme of lexus and toyota in the early 90's for their top end models...haha

[Brown_Muscle]

i like the gold trim accents on the interior though

[tjc78]

that way it will follow the theme of lexus and toyota in the early 90's for their top end models...haha

It was actually a dealer add-on (could get them on any trim level). Nice profit center for the dealers. IIRC they charged like $395.00 for $20.00 of parts and 20 minutes of labor.

Oh, and gold trim/emblems on a silver car = fail IMHO.

[86VickyLX]

If you want to retain all of your functions with your blingy gold, you need to swap your innards from your black faced heater control panel. And even then, the shit isn't laid out the same.

[zoomie]

Gold-plate marker the. Trim and gold wire rims put some hydraulics and crazy pinstriping and you got a nifty lowrider hooptey

[1987cp]

^^ Isn't that exactly what Matt did? At least, the one pic appears to show a marker, and the refinish looks like metallic marker ....

[MattsLincoln]

yes i used an 18 karat gold paint pen. your climate control will be fine just swap your innards the positions are the same and john max ac is a setting on manual ac cars only. just keep an eye out for the mix setting on the gold plated silver ac control units which i think started appearing in 1982 as mine doesnt show mix but has the setting still functional between floor and defrost.

[86VickyLX]

It might not be labeled max ac but there is a max ac. It's the ac position that closes the fresh air door. There are two AC positions aren't there?

[MattsLincoln]

It might not be labeled max ac but there is a max ac. It's the ac position that closes the fresh air door. There are two AC positions aren't there?

no for 1989 the stock heater control unit also says no max ac. so the other control unit thats in my lincoln reads the same as stock except for mix being on the plate.

heres how they go on my original control panel

|`A/C``||```````Heat````````|

OFF-VENT-PANEL-HI/LO-FlOOR-MIX-DEFROST

the one on the mark vi's control unit goes

|```A/C``||```````Heat````|

OFF-VENT-PANEL-HI/LO-FlOOR-DEFROST

same setup.


since i switched the mechanisms i still retain mix setting which isnt labeled on the mark vi's one but it is between floor and defrost settings. so all and all it all works like the original part.

[tjc78]

It might not be labeled max ac but there is a max ac. It's the ac position that closes the fresh air door. There are two AC positions aren't there?

The ATC controls whether or not the system is in MAX (recirc) or not. I remember both of my 89s would clearly start out in recirc and then eventually switch to fresh air once the car was cool.

IIRC if you leave the control all the way to cold and use the manual fan control setting it will stay in recirc mode.

[gadget73]

yep, no "max" position for ATC. Full cold makes it go into recirc mode automatically.

[MattsLincoln]

Reviving my thread folks with a shit ton of good news for you guys. i got a job at pep boys last week and was working on my car there today bolting the cneter caps for the wheels so no one steals them. i noticed that the PO put an aftermarket rear air shocks system in my vehicle. thinking my car needed the shocks replaced we filled it up to 45PSI becuase the system had no air in it and wow i guess it doesnt need shocks after all woohoo. rides even nicer and my gas mileage improved also so i will keep an eye on it to make sure no leaks. gonna have to find a site that sells air shocks for my lincoln when i do need new ones. front ones are gas shocks debating if they make front air shocks to put on. also got my car all checked over for inspection and it's getting stickers next week as it passed woohoo. my inspection tech who i work with also is gonna alllow me to pass my car without the air injection and smog pump so looks like i will be ripping out my smog shit woohoo. so happy today. now can somebody tell me how to remove the smog crap and the pipe behind the heads.

[BerniniCaCO3]

Pretty simply, actually.

The pipe behind the heads-- the thermactor pipe I think it's called-- is held on just with two bolts, one on each head. I dunno if you can reach it. You might have to remove the upper intake plenum. I did this with my engine out of the car for a rebuild.
The air pump can just come off. You have two options: find an idler pulley to put in its place, kits are made for this, or find another size belt. I did found another size belt. I can look at what I used, but, I had a hell of a time with it. It took me a long time to find a pulley and belt combo that fit right. So an idler might be easier, cleaner, more professional.

There is a pipe from the air pump that goes down to the cats too, as you're aware. I just cut that off and welded it shut, found a friend with a mig welder, sealed it right up.

As for check engine codes in these old cars, there is no feedback to see if the system is operational. All you need to do is leave the sensors plugged in, and I think there were some vacuum lines that went to the air pump. Just cap the originating end so you don't have a vacuum leak.

[MattsLincoln]

Pretty simply, actually.

The pipe behind the heads-- the thermactor pipe I think it's called-- is held on just with two bolts, one on each head. I dunno if you can reach it. You might have to remove the upper intake plenum. I did this with my engine out of the car for a rebuild.
The air pump can just come off. You have two options: find an idler pulley to put in its place, kits are made for this, or find another size belt. I did found another size belt. I can look at what I used, but, I had a hell of a time with it. It took me a long time to find a pulley and belt combo that fit right. So an idler might be easier, cleaner, more professional.

There is a pipe from the air pump that goes down to the cats too, as you're aware. I just cut that off and welded it shut, found a friend with a mig welder, sealed it right up.

As for check engine codes in these old cars, there is no feedback to see if the system is operational. All you need to do is leave the sensors plugged in, and I think there were some vacuum lines that went to the air pump. Just cap the originating end so you don't have a vacuum leak.

can you send me links on this idler pulley or belts to use without the smog pump. there is one vacuum line going to this solenoid that connects to a hose going to the smog pump im just gonna cap it.

[BerniniCaCO3]

I'll get the belt size tomorrow, and measure the pulley.
I just got a generic pulley, from pepboys as a matter of fact. Took trial and error to find one small enough, and even then, it was a struggle to get the new belt around it.

So the air pump replacement idler might be a better idea. They're most assuredly made for mustangs: I do not know if a mustang air pump is in teh same spot as yours however.