My $600 1989 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series(Beverely)

[sly]

The aeros use the same ignition switch.

then why are replacement parts different? (talking aero 93 vic compared to box - looked up parts on AZ's website... even the pictures are different)

the box one clips one... the aero one has a screw that pulls the connector on like the ECM does.

how can these be the same?

[86VickyLX]

then why are replacement parts different? (talking aero 93 vic compared to box - looked up parts on AZ's website... even the pictures are different)

the box one clips one... the aero one has a screw that pulls the connector on like the ECM does.

how can these be the same?

My bad. I confused the 91 for an aero cause they have similar steering columns

[MattsLincoln]

did some more work on the car and did an oil change and new motorcraft oil filter. no leaks. engine sounds nice and healthy.

[MattsLincoln]

i have a question the high idle on this car doesnt work properly. when cold outside car runs at curb idle and will kick on high idle for just a second and then shuts off the high idle how do i fix this. is it the idle air control valve. also the car is suppose to raise the idle when the atc is in the mix position it doesnt. i know my merc raised the idle when it was in mix position. what controls the high idle. also my floor position on my lincoln does not work. what is that issue.

[tjc78]

The floor not working is most likely the thermal blower lockout switch. It's on one of the heater hoses on the passenger side. Take off the connector and jump the wires together. As for the idle not raising on mix, is your A/C compressor engaging? If its not that is why your idle isn't raising.

[sly]

EFI doesn't have a "high idle" like CFI and carb. EFI is supposed to run at curb idle (or near to it)... but just riches the mix.

also, the blower lockout will keep the ATC from blowing cold air on your feet. If the engine is at operating temp and it's still not blowing, then that lockout switch (inline thing on the heater hose) is screwy and you can just jump it. If the engine is cold and it won't blow but does once warmed up... then it's working properly.

[1990LTD]

clean the iac, check for vac leaks, check injector o rings for leaks

[MattsLincoln]

EFI doesn't have a "high idle" like CFI and carb. EFI is supposed to run at curb idle (or near to it)... but just riches the mix.

also, the blower lockout will keep the ATC from blowing cold air on your feet. If the engine is at operating temp and it's still not blowing, then that lockout switch (inline thing on the heater hose) is screwy and you can just jump it. If the engine is cold and it won't blow but does once warmed up... then it's working properly.

doesnt work even warmed up/ im just gonna bypass it how do i do that. what do i plug the vacuum lines with.

the ac compressor does cycle in the mix position. doesnt cycle constantly but does cycle every few seconds. no difference in idle speed.

[1987cp]

EFI doesn't have a "high idle" like CFI and carb. EFI is supposed to run at curb idle (or near to it)... but just riches the mix.

I guess that's why it idles at 1100-1300 when you first start it, and then settles down to more like 600-800?

[sly]

I guess that's why it idles at 1100-1300 when you first start it, and then settles down to more like 600-800?

yeah... within 15 seconds (mass air takes like 1-3 seconds)... unlike CFI/carb that prefer idle closer to 2K until warmed which can be anywhere from a few minutes to half an hour depending on temps. (all based on cold start)

That technical enough for ya... or do you want the actual specs too? I can get those as well... but it'll have to wait until I'm at home again and can dig through a few books.

[MattsLincoln]

coming soon is a burnout video to show the 3.27 locker in action.

[sly]

yeah... within 15 seconds (mass air takes like 1-3 seconds)... unlike CFI/carb that prefer idle closer to 2K until warmed which can be anywhere from a few minutes to half an hour depending on temps. (all based on cold start)

That technical enough for ya... or do you want the actual specs too? I can get those as well... but it'll have to wait until I'm at home again and can dig through a few books.

also... there's no mechanical components to control a fast idle with EFI like the other two. the higher idle is controlled by the idle air control motor and the ECM. Thus, it is not something you can adjust on an EFI system... therefore... there is no need to worry about it. If it won't idle right when warm... then you need to tweak/clean stuff. If it idles right when warm, it should idle right when cold without any user input (pumping the gas pedal does nothing for EFI).

[1987cp]

yeah... within 15 seconds (mass air takes like 1-3 seconds)... unlike CFI/carb that prefer idle closer to 2K until warmed which can be anywhere from a few minutes to half an hour depending on temps. (all based on cold start)

That technical enough for ya... or do you want the actual specs too? I can get those as well... but it'll have to wait until I'm at home again and can dig through a few books.

No choke, ya think?

Still, my experience driving any SEFI vehicle, Ford or otherwise, has been that there is a fast-idle mode it does whilst cold, and then closes the IAC valve a bit to bring it down to a "normal" idle speed.

I've not had to set my AFB fast-idle screw to yield a fast idle much over 1100-1200. It's not 100% happy there when cold, but unlike a 1500-2k fast idle, you can go ahead and drive it without being all weird and lurchy and stuff.

Anywhoo, back to yapping about Matt's Town Car with its busted ATC.

[tjc78]

doesnt work even warmed up/ im just gonna bypass it how do i do that. what do i plug the vacuum lines with.

.

Back when I did it on my 89 LTC I just connected the two wires (that were in the connector) together in order to close the circuit, and left the vacuum lines alone. I am not sure if that is correct procedure, but it was fine the entire time I had the car.

[gadget73]

connect the wires together with whatever suits you. I think a fuse might just happen to be the right spacing. If it is, stab a 30 amp fuse in there and call it good. Plug the vacuum lines with whatever is handy. I usually end up with small screws dipped in RTV to seal it. Ball bearings work nicely too, and are slightly cleaner looking. If the vacuum part of the switch does not leak, you can leave it be but often it does leak and causes havoc with the ATC system.