My 'new' 2003 Grand Marquis.

[Piece-it pete]

She's back!

Partial fail. AC fan runs constantly and - the bloody check engine light is still on

I'll be calling shortly. But the engine does run smoother and they did end up replacing the lower steering shaft. Tranny flush and new filter. And the AC does work.

So it might be going back for the engine light (it's not on the receipt). If not I start moving forward with the interior/stereo, then come the week of the 12th I'm off and will be making the big push on the suspension.

It's hard not to make a head to head comparison between the 03 and the 08 Lacrosse I've been driving. So I will

The Lacrosse does feel more 'modern' somehow. It's quieter overall, and quicker off the line, and freeway downshifts, where you use it most. Not a bad car. Acceleration = win to the Buick (even if the MGM will probably pass it down the road).

The MGM feels much more planted and much more comfortable, to me. It also feels like a more quality car than the Buick. My dad paid $22k for his, my sticker says $30k, I figure it probably actually sold for around $25k or so? Around $3-5k difference and 5 years of inflation, maybe the MGM SHOULD feel better put together. So call it a wash.

Space/truck - Win to MGM, obviously, though the Buick has a 'decent' trunk.

Gas mileage, no significant difference overall! I get around 20 average, his readout says around 21. Over 10k miles at $3.50 per gallon that amounts to a savings of less than a hundred bucks. Win to the much, much larger MGM.

Ride, the Buick has an odd slight side to side motion that feels like carsick. The MGM, um, doesn't. The MGM is also more composed on bad roads (though the Buick isn't bad). Win to the MGM.

Steering and handling. Compared to the MGM, the Buick feels much more nimble. The MGM while planted and confidence inspiring feels numb in comparison and even with the Watts link that live rear end does like to shift at that certain point in a high speed turn (know what I mean? ). While I didn't go rally racing in my dad's car (which he would appreciate), I suspect: Win to the Buick.

Styling: The Buick is more highly styled, while apart from the massive taillights and reflectors on the back the MGM isn't really, it's much more understated. I think the rear of the Buick is hideous while the larger grill is more similar to the MGMs big toothy grin. Also it's got a beautiful premium dark red paint and chrome rims that look really nice. I'm tempted to give the win to the Buick but it's so perhaps color driven or such a personal decision that even though I prefer the understated MGM: I'm calling it a wash.

Interior? Super tough call. They're such different cars even if they are (were) sold into the same market (old people wearing fedoras). With the 3 seats in the front the MGM can't have a center console. The plus, it feels even bigger than it is. The minus, a little perhaps old fashioned feel. The Buicks' interior feels more modern. The quality of plastics are similar. The controls in the MGM are far, far easier to use and much more intuitive with the exception of the steering controls, the Buicks have a better layout. The dash, I've been looking at the digital dash in the MGM for a long, long time (my 97 was the same unit), so I feel a little uncomfortable comparing them. I do prefer a dial speedo to the numbers in the MGM overall though. So I'm calling it a wash.

Conclusion: The Buick is not a bad car. Actually, if it wasn't for the size/v6/fwd/unibody it might not be a bad vehicle for us. But it is those things, so it really isn't. Per the above 2 wins for the Buick, 3 wins for the MGM, and 3 washes. The MGM by 1 on the scoreboard, and by a million on the soul.

Pete

[Piece-it pete]

Well in order to get the fan off the 'right' way I'd need a new 'pooter, plus a trip to the nice Ford dealer man, probably $500 all in.

So guess what? I'm undoing the jumping and putting a switch in the lower dash for the compressor, for now.

Pete

[Piece-it pete]

Heck on all that, I'm just letting the fan run for now

Suspension: DONE!!! Oof. Though upgrading the sway bars to police ones is for another day - I assumed I could always get them and of course the local pullaparts were out of 02+.

To recap (keep in mind this is a 2003 with the aluminum front end with coilovers and rack and pinion. The rear end info is good for 1998+): Police KYB Gas A Justs all the way around. Stock civvie Raybestos coils front, Moog cargo coils rear. All new bushings/cushions/etc. New front sway links and cheap rear upper and lower control arms/watts link.

What I learned before buying parts, grains or tons of salt: The difference between Marauder/Civilian/Police front springs is only installed height. Civilian is 'normal', Marauders are an inch lower, and police are an inch higher, so I went with stock. The darn scraper underneath hits everything already. Also, I heard tell that the Moog front springs are stiff as a mother so I spent an extra $20 on the Raybestos Professionals. I really, really wanted 'good' rear control arms (Metco, Sparta etc) but couldn't afford them and figured the cheapies would still be better than the old ones.

What I learned doing it: FRONT 2003+:

First and foremost, have a shop put the front coilovers together. After I removed one, I had all but the last 2 coils compressed as far as the strut compressor would go and the mount plate still sproinged 30-40 feet after I cut the top nut off. Even at the shop (only $25 for both btw) the guy asked me what SUV they were for, that the spring rate on them are so high it was very difficult even with the wall mounted machine.

For $25 a pair I will never attempt to assemble struts or coilovers again.

Other than that the front was uneventful, simple even. Rotor off, sway bar link off, upper ball joint off (with jack under the lower control arm!), loosen upper control arm and swing up out of the way, 3 mount plate bolts off the top, lower shock bolt off, destroy fingernail worrying the thing out of the pocket, wala'! You're supposed to mark the mount plate position compared to the lower shock bolt position and I did, it was still a little off back from the shop but contrary to the remarks I found online I just slipped the shock through the lower control arm, past the bolt holes so the unit would spin, set the upper mount plate holes in place and started the nuts, then stuck a bar through the lower shock hole and could indeed spin it to line up.

I did not need to grind out the lower control arm slot and even if the shock wouldn't fit would've simply ground down the sleeve on the shock using a bench grinder, not enlarged the LCA hole, if you know what I mean. Also, I have a smallish Craftsman visegrip, the kind where they laminate layers of metal, and it was thin enough to slide behind the ball joint and sway bar link and keep the shaft from spinning. Very nice.

I also replaced the other bearing and with experience it was a little easier. I went right to a cold chisel and hand sledge being careful not to cut either the aluminum spindle or steel bearing plate, and kept going around until it forced out, then file the heck out of the hole before attempting to install the new one.

REAR 1998+:

Get your spinach ready - you'll need the muscle. Not for the springs and shocks but for the control arms and watts link.

Before you start, with your car sitting on level ground, measure from some point on the rims you can transfer onto your axle flange (I measured from the top of a stud) to the bottom lip of your fender and write it down. You'll need it later.

As always front tire chocked, car up on stands, wheels removed. Brakes and sway links can stay on if you're not servicing them. Unclip the ABS wires going to the brakes (they clip onto the axle) and keep an eye on them and the rubber brake lines, although I didn't have any issues there.

I then proceeded to remove shocks and springs. This has been discussed multiple times elsewhere so I'll skip it, with one comment - it's nice that the shocks are mounted outboard of the frame on these

Then I did the control arms one side at a time. After eating the aforementioned spinach, and going through a humorous routine that included battleships on my biceps and very skinny girls in distress, I placed a jack under the axle and started trying to remove the upper control arm bolts. Ag, ag-ag-ag-ag-ag-ag-ag.

Actually they're no worse than any self locking frame bolt, although that can be hard. I always get a little wd40 or pb blaster on the bolt before starting. The fun begins when the bolt won't slide out or worse yet is frozen to the metal sleeve on the inside of the bushing. The upper bolt on the axle end slides in from the back and the brakes are in the way so you can't just wack it with a hammer. I returned to my trusty cold chisel to get it started, then a tierod pickle fork to pry it the rest of the way.

This helps on other bolts too as many of them deadend into the frame, with the nuts that have a metal bar welded to them so they don't turn. It also helped on the one bolt that froze to the sleeve, with the chisel it broke it loose a little bit and with pb blaster and knocking it back and forth it FINALLY came free.

Anyway got the upper out and installed the new one. It only goes on one way and 'front' is stamped on the new one to help. I did antisieze the bolts, the part that goes inside the sleeves. Don't tighten them yet!!

Then the bottom same deal, without tightening! This one goes on either way.

Onward to the other side. Apart from the standard getting-the-bolts-out baloney I had a hard time lining up the last bolt on the LCA, the axle had shifted a little. I jacked the axle up and down and finally got it sorted. I may have been lucky, I can see how it could be difficult to 'spin' the axle back and forth. Again, don't tighten them.

To the joyous Watts Link! The joy comes from the 200 ft/lb center nut on the diff. And it feels like 200 all the way off.

If you have rear air coil suspension you may have to unclip a hose or two from the Watts before starting.

I loosened the ends first. Not too much corrosion on mine. Then I loosened the center nut, The best shot I got at it was coming from in front of the drivers' side wheel well. I had enough room to use the entire jack handle, not just half. I got lucky - the stud didn't snap. As you can imagine that is a huge problem if it happens.

Then removed the end bolts and pulled it out from under the car as a unit. Pay attention how it's set up and what direction it goes in, it only installs one way, and in my case the preassembled replacement was assembled wrong. I also loosened the arms where they bolt to the center pivot.

Install new unit. I started the center nut, then started the ends, then snugged them and backed off - again do not tighten, leave a little loose.

Install new springs and shocks. Get your flange-to-fender-lip measurement out. With jacks and stands bring your axle measurement in line with your note. If you've replaced your springs and your old ones sagged you might even wish to mount your tires and remeasure before doing this.

Once your axle is in the correct location proceed to tighten everything without forgetting anything On that center watts link nut, if you don't have a torque wrench remember that 200 ft/lbs is a LOT.

Reclip ABS wires, eyeball everything, double and triple check everything. Mount tires, lower car, test drive! Hope very hard the rear end doesn't fall off


.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.

Keep in mind I'm a backyard hack and the above is for entertainment purposes only

So what did it do? Well, the car only has around 85k on it and is 10 years old, with most of its' age in 'less salt than Cleveland' PA. Even so, the shocks were fairly easy to push in and slow to expand. And the upper rear control arm bushings were shot!! Lowers, fair to poor, and the watts barely acceptable.

As you can imagine the cop shocks on top of being gas a justs, the ride is firmer. Just a little bit. As in, a lot. If I ever do an 03+ again I'd probably use civvies. That said, it handles & rides generally much much better and handles potholes and bad roads with aplomb, and it's possible it'll mellow a little as the springs settle in. Maybe.

Two things I attribute to the new control arms/watts. One is obvious - the rear doesn't shift anymore in the middle of a high speed turn. Coming from a box and aero background I assumed it was normal, it isn't. I will see how much of a difference next time I go through a particular freeway interchange I know well and will report back.

The other was also unexpected. It's much quieter. Much of the noise I thought was normal was the bad bushings. I know, duh, but it's easy once you KNOW the bushings were bad

All this and I'm still running original stock sway bar bushings. I think I'll just change them to poly and think about installing the cop ones later. I'll report back when I do that too.

I am one happy camper. Sore, but happy.

Pete

[jaywish]

It is always good when you feel the difference.

[Piece-it pete]

Thanks, it sure is!

I forgot to address why I did the darned suspension to begin with

The front end wobble!! And, it's still there dammit. Teenie, teenie, teenie, if I didn't know what it'll turn into I wouldn't even care. When I get two cents to rub together I'll have it road force balanced.

Pete

[sxcpotatoes]

It is always good when you feel the difference.

That's what she said!

[gadget73]

Lack of lateral location for the rear axle is sort of normal on the boxes. Even with all new bushings, the back end is not exactly what I'd call rock solid. Hit a bump in a turn and the back end wags. Do that with sloppy bushings and it can be a hell of a scary ride. The watts link is a significant improvement in keeping the rear under the car. One of these days I'd like to do a watts link or a panhard rod to locate the rear axle properly, but frankly I suck with fabrication so I'll have to leave that stuff to better minds than mine.

[Piece-it pete]

Cars that don't skitter sideways around bumpy turns are the devil!

Agreed on the fabrication for sure.

Pete

[Piece-it pete]

One very cool thing I noticed - you can see the shiny awesome new rear lower control arm from outside the car

Pete

[packman]

One very cool thing I noticed - you can see the shiny awesome new rear lower control arm from outside the car

Pete

+1 I am glad I painted the suspension pieces before re-installing. It makes a big difference in appearance.


Packman

[Piece-it pete]

No paint, too lazy

I can tell you though, now I'll be looking for that bit on other panthers I come across just to see what it looks like!

Pete

[SVT98t]

One very cool thing I noticed - you can see the shiny awesome new rear lower control arm from outside the car

Pete

Pics or it didn't happen.

-ryan s.

[Piece-it pete]

Lol!

I'll try to get one shortly

Pete

[Piece-it pete]

And, I forgot the pic.

And, bloody sonofa cheese eating surrender monkey. My better half just called, she turned on the AC and smelly smoke billowed out from under the hood. AC compressor! Just had it charged too. Of course.

Pete

[Piece-it pete]

And, sonofa stinking hanging monkey. Do I really have to change the drier again, the one I just changed? Orifice tube no issue they're cheap.

Pete