My 'new' 2003 Grand Marquis.

[Piece-it pete]

Well my 85 'help me decide' post is sorting things so well in my mind I thought I'd do the same here, but with no possiblity of selling More to do with priorities. Keep in mind I'll keep this car till it rots away.

So if you'll bear with me, and suggestions and comments are welcome! Maybe I missed something? I'm considering this my master list.

Here it is, the wholy crap do I really need to do this NOW list:

Important stuff:

*The slight wobble in the front end. The last thing I need is for it to throw my new tires out of round/wear on new front end parts. I don't want to reload the parts cannon but I did have a car that was constantly killing rotors and it ended up being a bad strut. So I consider rebuilding the suspension a very high priority. I've decided to go with the cop gasajusts front and rear, stock front springs, cargo coils in the rear. Anyone know where to get front coil spring insulators for this car? I can't find them, I'll have to call Ford.

I've got some wobble related choices to make while on this job:
-change the bearings? Problem is (like everything else on this car!) they're expensive (cheapest good ones I can find are over $70). So I'm thinking I'll use the mech's stethescope to listen in before ordering.
-change the LCAs? See expensive comment above. But I think this one's a very possible wobble culprit, and I'll never figure it out without changing it, so I might get a cheapie (??!) $125 dorman for the right side only and reuse the newer moog ball joint. This is seriously going against my first thought, that I should do both, but money is flying out the window and it makes me sad.

Other suspension related choices, will and money allowing:
-change the front sway bar links to 'good' units. I put cheapies on already, but I'll have to undo them anyway and I've had problems with these in the past, this is probably going to happen.
-change the front sway bar bushings. Almost a no brainer, as Energy greaseable polys are around $20 and I already have new bolts/clips. But, if I do all that I might as well:
-change the f&r sway bars to cop ones. I should have no problems finding them at pullapart and they aren't very much $. And I have new rear links already. If you can't tell I've pretty much talked myself into this. Hope I've got the $ at the time.
-rebuild the rear suspension completely. I'm going to have the rear shocks and springs out, and the driveshaft will be out too (for ujoints and rear trans seal which I already have) so I'm thinking I should change the rear watts link at least. Around $40 for a dorman/cheapie this will probably happen. I'd really really like to change the control arms but it's $70 for a cheap set and I've heard tell the 'good' upgraded sets ($3-400+) make a HUGE difference in handling. But everything'll be out of the way and the good ones are probably a pipe dream. On the fence with the cheapies, but I'm cheap

*Slight miss. It's driving me crazy. To recap, I've changed plugs COPs & boots and cleaned the heck out of the intake etc. I do have a KAM check engine code (low voltage - probably a broken wire, a known problem on these) and will pay to have that fixed first thing. If that doesn't solve it I'll either have the shop tell me what's wrong or look for it with my nephew.

*Occasional slight trans slip. I've changed the pan fluid/filter but will get a tranny flush.

*Belt system noise. I'll just have the shop tell me what's up when I take it in for the KAM. It does have a new tensioner and idler pulley.

*Rust. Boy does this go against the grain - it should be a low priority! But I'm starting to get rust on the inner door lips and what's the point of all this other crap if it rusts prematurely? My inner pollock is in conflict. I got an estimate last year at a very good shop, that I know is excellent, that place is like a car show. Not only would he fix the doors but also pull the rocker trim, fix any scratches flaws etc (of which it has many) and give it back polished and beautiful. It'd look like a new car and I know it. Problem is - $600! ('it'll give me 10 hours') Do it once, do it right? I might not be able to afford 'right'. I will get other estimates and if anyone has any suggestions in the Cleveland/Akron area I'm all ears.

That's it for RIGHT NOW problems. Since this is my 'master list' I'll add the other lower priority stuff, input still welcome:

*Interior. I've been sitting on a new interior for a bit and hope to install it this summer. Overall she's looking a little rough in there. But if I'm going to attempt the install myself I think I should do a few other things while I have the seats out.
-change the carpet. It's pretty ugly, I don't think a steam clean will be enough, and frankly it's not the nicest carpet anyway. Looks to be around $140 for the cheapies to around $190 for a 'super plush'. Plus floor mats, yikes! Maybe a cleaning will work.
-run stereo wires for future upgrades. No brainer with the carpet out, although I'll have to give the main power cable some thought.
-change the dash bit that says 'Grand Marquis' - it's warped.
-change the drivers' inside handle. I can't get it clean.
-change the master window switch, it's broken.
-change the pass side heating elements, no worky.
-get the headliner clean?? Might have to pay for that. Depressing.
-clean the rear package tray.
-it'd be nice to rewrap the steering wheel but that's probably a pipe dream

Looking at that, the interior might have to wait till '14.

Lastly:

*Factory stereo is starting to blink out
*Pass front window moves slow
*Change all orings in the (non op) AC system along with orafice tube and dryer, test
*Find and change the trunk liner
*clean the engine compartment

Whoa, I think that's everything? Thanks again for putting up with this it really helps sort it all out.

Pete

[Mainemantom]

Don't bother cleaning the headliner or package tray or it will be a mess. Just replace the material. There are a few posts here to help with that.

[79lincolnlover]

How many miles on it now?

[Piece-it pete]

Thanks Tom, I'll look for them!

79, 80

It seems like a lot of work but if you just bullet point it it's the darn wobble, an occasional known problem with these (and I'm looking forward to the suspension upgrade!), probable cracked wire, A/C repair, stop the rust, and the interior was less than stellar when I bought it, I think the guy had a dog. I do this and I should be able to set it down happily for a few years. Plus, part of getting funds for this is going to lower my paycheck, I'm trying to get it up to 100% and the 85 running right.... yeah I know good luck

Pete

[tjc78]

it it's the darn wobble, an occasional known problem with these (and I'm looking forward to the suspension upgrade!)

I wonder if it is just a quirk of these. The reason I say that is, although I only recently got my 04 I've driven it since it had 10K on it. I've always noticed something a little "off" in the front end on certain road surfaces. It never got worse and still to this day it's there. I wouldn't call it a wobble or even a vibration just a mild (very, very mild) scraping. I've had it to highly illegal speeds and it doesn't get worse and the front seems as tight as 80K can be. Tires wear nice and no odd noises. 95% of the time I don't notice it, and if someone else drove the car they would probably tell me I'm nuts.

[jaywish]

just a thought on cheapie suspension parts. If the original stock items are not really bad, I would leave them rather than install a cheapie replacement china part.

[Piece-it pete]

Yeah tj the various folks I've spoken to about it have had from nothing to intolerable wobble. Mine has already thrown a set of tires out of round, that's why I now think it's a bad strut.

Jay I get you. I dislike the cheap stuff but looking at the rear control arms, stamped with rubber bushings? My thought is how much difference could it make, Dorman etc vs Motorcraft. I'll pay for that comment

I can't do anything like those awesome M&Zs right now. I may take your advice on the Watts though and get a Motorcraft unit. Hope the bolt doesn't break!

Pete

[jaywish]

I didn't think Mack & Zack were still making them.

[Piece-it pete]

Heck if'n I know I know there's someone making the good ones though.

Still on the fence re: the rear. I'll make up my mind when I place the order Went to change the orings in the AC system and the main dual hose looks pretty bad so I'll probably change it.

And, Holy Cow! 2 NOS Motorcraft front hubs for $86 del'd! Drinks are on me

Pete

[Piece-it pete]

As part of the ongoing 'fix the damn wobble' drama I changed the pass front wheel bearing assembly hoping it would be it. Doubting, but hoping.

It wasn't.

If you go to do this job on an '03+ you'd have better had trouble with your hoes lately, because your smacking arm is gonna get a workout

I look at the part and think, wow, this is even easier than a aero, no center nut at 1 million ft/lbs of torque. 4 bolts hit it with the BFH a coupla times and done!

WRONG!!! It was IN THERE. The problem is the steering knuckle is aluminum, and the spalling type corrosion jammed it hard. You can see how the assembly fits into a tight hole (giggity) thusly:





Not only did I have to use a cold chisel, a lot, just to get it started, and beat the living crap out of it to get it finally loose (at one point I thought I might not get it out!), I had to file and wire wheel the heck out of the spindle opening to get the new one in, and horribly I ended up having to give the new bearing a few 'love taps' to get into it.

Be aware! I antisiezed the hole a bit so hopefully if it ever needs changed again it'll be easier. Sure it will.

I'm going to do the other side when I do the suspension for that very reason. It would probably be much faster to pull the sway link and tierod end, so you could smack the old unit from the back. If you end up doing it from the front be careful!, a cold chisel could do a real number on that aluminum!

Plus if you pull the sway bar link you can get to the 4th bolt more easily, it's in the way and I had to use a combo wrench on that locktighted bolt. So if you need to change your links anyway when you change your bearings, do it at the same time

A note on the bearings - the part, sealed inside a Motorcraft box, is actually a SKF unit with Siemens (VDO) electronics, they must have been the OEM, just FYI.

Pete

[Piece-it pete]

Rant alert!!

These bloody new frontends are SO EXPENSIVE. And it doesn't help that I think Ford's making a killing on some of this stuff. Case in point and the fire in this rant - front coil spring insulators.

There was a problem with them so boy I'd rather go OEM, 5W1Z-5415-AA. In spite of hard searching the absolute best price I can find is $91.41 - each.



/rant

So I might have to buy the Monroe ones, 907945. They're only the rubber bit, and they're cheap, but if I have to replace them in a coupla years I'll..... I'll...... replace them. Unhappily.

Also, does anyone have any comment on needing new actual strut mounts?



Thanks.

Pete

[tjc78]

How many miles on your 03? My 04 just rolled 80K and the front end seems tight as could be, I don't see it needing front end work for a while. My Grandfather drove it easy, but still took into Philly a few days a week to goto the OTB, so it saw it's share of shit roads.

[Piece-it pete]

80k and apart from the wobble and a minor rattle it's tight. According to my research the wobble is a hit or miss known problem and can be devilish to track down.

No matter though, just venting steam. I'm used to suspension upgrades being an extra $20 I'm really looking forward to the KYBs and bigger sway bars, on my 97 the Gas A Justs made a huge difference, I can't wait to drive this thing with them, it should be just this side of awesome. For the money it'd better be!

I would just change the one shock but 11 years old and 80k? Guessing I have a bad bushing somewhere too, a rattle over bumps. Better done once and done right. Hopefully I won't have to touch the suspension again. Maybe I should say hopefully I'll have to do it again in 7-8 years.

Btw I contacted Monroe and their isolators are both pieces, so I'll buy theirs and save the $160. Dagnabbit.

Pete

[Piece-it pete]

I guess I got lucky, in a strange sense - someone backed into her at a parking lot. I haven't seen it yet (my SO was driving) but apparently the drivers' fender and door got pretty messed up from a pickups' trailer hitch.

The luck comes in because the little bit of rust and blemishes I was going to have taken care of shortly will be thrown into the job. I'm going to save at least a few hundred.

I'll snap a pic when I get a chance.

Pete

[Piece-it pete]

You know, it might mean I can get 'good' rear control arms.

Pete