P72Ford's White Box

[87DeuceVic]

Assuming, of course, that the 525 Road Demon is suited to his needs ... especially after the new heads and cam.

Aint that hard to buy a better carb. Drop a Holley 750 double pumper on there.

[86VickyLX]

Congrats on the car mang, glad to see its only two states away from me now

I would say stay with the carb. Its already set-up might as well just roll with it and improve on it.

No, no, HELL NO! It needs to be reliable. The mass air EFI will work perfectly on that engine, as it does on mine!

[gadget73]

750 is way more carb than neccesary, and most people do not need a double pump carb. Bigger is not better.

[P72Ford]

btw... Good luck getting that 8 clutch track lock diff back apart to replace the axles.

I know when Scott and I rebuilt the track lock on my K-code, I had to hammer spider gear cross shaft in place, removing it would be problematic.

Interesting thought, Eric.

I don't quite understand what you're saying, though. I thought the S spring held tension on the clutch pack. Why would the clutches affect the fitment of the cross shaft? I've messed with a shit ton of GM 10 bolt posi traction units, and the pin always comes out effortlessly. Of course, apples and oranges, I guess.

I'm not understanding this, and I'd appreciate further explanation. I also appreciate the PM. I will keep it in mind when I make a decision.

If the diff proves problematic, I'll throw the diff away and buy a new one.

By the way. Today I bought the most incredibly mint set of '03-'04 Cobra wheels. Stock Ford pieces. I don't know whether they'll fit or not, but for the price, I could not resist. I couldn't believe the price, for how fresh these wheels are. The guy selling them replaced them with a staggered (17x10.5 rears) set aftermarket wheels.

I have no plans of doing anything with the heads in the short term, Michael. Cam, maybe.

An engine swap may happen down the road (which is why I'm not planning on doing much more than enjoying the car until then); there are 2 possibilities that I have in mind right now. 1 is unorthodox, and the other is not. I've already got a price on having a set of longtubes made for the car, too... Took my '90 out there and had them give it a gander. For the work they do, and the price I was given, it is certainly a possibility.

A stick swap is a reality for this car, after I decide what I'm doing for future engines.

[gadget73]

I don't recall having problems with the pin on my car. Getting the side gears into place was a bitch, but once in position the pin just slides straight in. Definitely do not rotate the axles once you get the pin out though, or the side gears will try and eject.

[86VickyLX]

You can pull the axles without disturbing the gears. As long as you don't turn it. I've done axle seals in a ford ranger with the same set up. Axles pop right out. No need for reshimming or anything.

[P72Ford]

I know I don't have to mess with the gears to change the axles.

Eric was leading me to believe that the fact that its an 8 clutch trac lok would make it more difficult to get the cross pin in/out.

I know better than to turn either axle when the cross pin is out.

Thanks for the input mangs.

I just went and checked out the storage facility. Nice. I need to find a temporary cover until I get a good one ordered.

[pantera77]

That car looks so awesome clean, but I must be the only one that thinks it needs at least some piece of trim put back on it. Or maybe just the pinch weld painted black. IDK. Something just looks odd on it.

Also, go EFI.

[P72Ford]

That car looks so awesome clean, but I must be the only one that thinks it needs at least some piece of trim put back on it. Or maybe just the pinch weld painted black. IDK. Something just looks odd on it.

Also, go EFI.

It won't get any trim put back, but I really agree about the rocker/ pinch weld area. I will investigate this.

Regarding EFI:

If I want to change the cam to something more aggressive, what are my options for tuning mass air EFI? Are larger injectors mandatory? Fuel pressure adjustment? What needs to be done regarding air flow? Is there a way to electronically control spark advance? I'm used to more late model stuff, especially J1850 protocol.

I fully intend to race this car. Certainly not every weekend, but I spend alot of time at the strip in the summer months, so I'll race it at least a half dozen times a year. I'm not looking for an all out race car, but I definitely want it to hustle for a big car. Low 14s, high 13s. Not sure if the latter is possible with some of the stuff that I have here, but I'd like to make a run at it.

If I stay with the carb, tuning for a cam swap will be much easier.

I really like the EFI, though, if for nothing else than the fact that its different. A big tudor sedan, with EFI, that runs its ass off at the track would draw some attention. Hell, most folks that I've told about my recent acquisition never even knew that a tudor CV was even made.

[86VickyLX]

. Hell, most folks that I've told about my recent acquisition never even knew that a tudor CV was even made.

Join the club. I've used this site to prove that they exist. Lol.

[gadget73]

If I want to change the cam to something more aggressive, what are my options for tuning mass air EFI? Are larger injectors mandatory? Fuel pressure adjustment? What needs to be done regarding air flow? Is there a way to electronically control spark advance? I'm used to more late model stuff, especially J1850 protocol.

.

the tweecer is generally the go-to tuning device for the Ford EECIV processor. You can change damn near anything you can imagine with one, including injector size, timing curves, etc. Another thought since you have more or less a blank slate is to go Megasquirt. Thats also fully tunable, and probably more flexible overall. The other possible advantage to an MS system is a custom minimailistic wiring harness. As you well know, the stock EFI wiring is a bit bulky. The MS you could route however you want, and it would have less wiring overall since theres no smog crap included.

[Pirate]

It won't get any trim put back, but I really agree about the rocker/ pinch weld area. I will investigate this.

It's the wheels. They look great, but for some reason, they just don't fit on this car. I'm thinking either a 17" or 18" wheel, with something a bit wider on the rear to fill out the wheelwell.

Regarding EFI:

If I want to change the cam to something more aggressive, what are my options for tuning mass air EFI? Are larger injectors mandatory? Fuel pressure adjustment? What needs to be done regarding air flow? Is there a way to electronically control spark advance? I'm used to more late model stuff, especially J1850 protocol.

If you're going to monkey around with the EFI, I'd go with larger injectors. Yes, you can hang 19# injectors open longer, but if it's a sequential fuel injection system, hanging the smaller injectors open longer kind of defeats the purpose of the 'sequential' part, doesn't it? So far as what you can do with this system, talk to Mikey (MrLTD).

I fully intend to race this car. Certainly not every weekend, but I spend alot of time at the strip in the summer months, so I'll race it at least a half dozen times a year. I'm not looking for an all out race car, but I definitely want it to hustle for a big car. Low 14s, high 13s. Not sure if the latter is possible with some of the stuff that I have here, but I'd like to make a run at it.

I'm not in a position to do this idea, but you might want to consider adding either an M90 or M112/Lightning blower, adding an intercooler, and doing a blowthrough carb setup....or take your chances with EFI again, and tuning it for an Eaton. You keep the stock long block, all the accessories, and have some fun with it in the process. If you blow it up, oh well, there are more Explorer engines out there.

This is still a route I'm personally thinking of following, instead of spending a fortune building a large N/A setup, using all-new parts and supporting cast (I like forced induction at higher altitudes in addition)....although I might rebuild my F4 351W bottom end, beefing it up a bit, and supercharging that instead of the stock 302 (it's got some miles on it), but I've got some additional frictional losses to overcome (independent rear suspension robs more power than a straight axle setup), and I think the 351W would be a bit more solid in the foundation department, not to mention I think it will live longer with the blower.

If I stay with the carb, tuning for a cam swap will be much easier.

That depends on who's doing the tuning. I like the idea of a carb, however, as it allows me to tune it at home, without having to plug it into a laptop.

I really like the EFI, though, if for nothing else than the fact that its different. A big tudor sedan, with EFI, that runs its ass off at the track would draw some attention. Hell, most folks that I've told about my recent acquisition never even knew that a tudor CV was even made.

My reason for wanting to keep EFI is simply one of altitude changes. I live at around 3500 feet, and if I want to drive anywhere else in the state, it goes up and down quite a bit (Portland, my old hometown, is just a bit above sea level). You don't have that kind of adjustability on the fly with a carb. In addition, if I have to switch back and forth between non-ethanol and ethanol fuel....I don't have jetting changes to make, if the EFI is set up properly.

There, I said it.

[P72Ford]

the tweecer is generally the go-to tuning device for the Ford EECIV processor. You can change damn near anything you can imagine with one, including injector size, timing curves, etc. Another thought since you have more or less a blank slate is to go Megasquirt. Thats also fully tunable, and probably more flexible overall. The other possible advantage to an MS system is a custom minimailistic wiring harness.

I might look into MS.

There, I said it.

I've already looked at s/c kits. But having been that route once already, I'm not really inetersted in trying it again. Especially since the car is still fairly heavy, and I am intending to make it a stick.

Wheels? 17x9 Cobras. I bought them yesterday. I think either 275/40/17s all around, or maybe something narrower in the front. But I don't want the tire to look stretched onto the rim.

If they don't work, I will sell them, because I also have a set of mint 17x8 Cobras, that I know will work.

[1987cp]

I've already got a price on having a set of longtubes made for the car, too... Took my '90 out there and had them give it a gander. For the work they do, and the price I was given, it is certainly a possibility.

This sounds interesting. I wonder now if there are custom header places around here ....

What kind of price are you looking at? No need to divulge specific figures, but is it about on par with the "good" brands like Kooks or JBA that Mustang guys use?

[P72Ford]

They said $1000.

They do alot of late '60s/ and '70s Ford stuff. Nice flanges, tig welded construction. They had a few material options available.

A set of really good long tubes can sometimes run more than these, and most decent brands are only a few hundred dollars cheaper.

I'm not saying I'm doing it, but its certainly a possibility.