cant wait!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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1990 country squire resto/lowrider in UK
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'88' MGM wagon (mine and my sons toy)
"60" chrysler New Yorker (my project)
"78" Chevy 1 Ton P/U (yard horse)
"01" Ford Explorer (wifes DD)
"93" Chevy Suburban (my DD)
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Okay so its hood removal time so I can get that fender off
Really surprised me how many bolts hold the fender on! 12 in fact!
This is the only one that didn't come out. It loosedend and then kept spinning. No doubt the captive nut holder broke in half
So it was out with my air grinder to grind the head off
Fenedr came off but is that the remains of a bulb at the bottom of it?!! How the hell did that get there?
Doesn't look too bad at the bottom, but here's the other side
Looks a bit sad now!
I try to fire the engine up every so often, and today was it. But it wouldn't play ball-no dash lights or any life at all. Finally spotted this connector that had literally fallen apart! And I had pulled apart a connector where the air compressor used to be. Oops! Started up straight away then.
Andy.Last edited by andyfanshawe; 03-03-2012, 06:25 PM.
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Time to remove the inner skin from the fender and see how far the rust goes. I'll also need more space for the wheel to go up into the arch when it lays frame! So here is the cut...
Here's the main section removed
Just leaving this section on the lip. Here's my fav air saw cutting through the top layer - I hope!!
Here's how far the rust goes up the inside of the front of the fender - it reaches up further under the inner skin than I thought.
Here's a few views of the fender lip that is left. I now need to remove the inner lip clean from the outer one by grinding through from the inside and causing little or no damage to the outer
Just before I packed up for the night, I did a surprisingly satisfying job! Removed the chrome trim from the back of the fender near. the screen!
Andy
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Sorry Andy, but that's the 2G firebomb. Get the alternator for a '94-'95 mustang with a 5.0. ( Genco #7771 ). You'll also need about 5 feet of 4ga wire, and a 175 amp fuse, and the appropriate connectors. The whole job takes about an hour to an hour and a half. The results are immediate. There is a few posts on installation, but from what I've seen of your work, you'll have no problem at all.
MIKE
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Originally posted by PICKUP6772 View PostSorry Andy, but that's the 2G firebomb. Get the alternator for a '94-'95 mustang with a 5.0. ( Genco #7771 ). You'll also need about 5 feet of 4ga wire, and a 175 amp fuse, and the appropriate connectors. The whole job takes about an hour to an hour and a half. The results are immediate. There is a few posts on installation, but from what I've seen of your work, you'll have no problem at all.
MIKE
I may have to beg someone to ship me over one!!!
Andy.
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Maybe worth checking if a V6 Mondeo or Transit or some such thing had a useable alternator?
85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc
06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)
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Originally posted by johnunit View PostMaybe worth checking if a V6 Mondeo or Transit or some such thing had a useable alternator?
Managed to get an hour on the fender tonight and started to grind back the welds on the inside of the lip and peel back the inner lip. Here's the first bit bent back
And finally we are all clear
Rust has only gone through in 3 places but I will replace all the lip anyway.
I ran the grinder over the rusty steel and it looks far better than before
Rather than media blast the whole thing, I am going to use naval jelly(on liquid form) to eradicate all the rust. I am going to dip the fender into a BIG container and leave it for a day or so till all the rust is gone. then the welding starts.
Heres the back lower portion of the fender bent back to check for any rust under there.
Looks okay under there.
Andy.
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yeah... if you can find an older (re: 90s model) 3.0L v6 powered ford... it probably has the alternator you need.
You can see pics of the different versions here: http://www.alternatorparts.com/Ford_3G.htm
You want the "larger" one of the 2.
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.
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Is that a phosphoric acid solution or something else ?86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Originally posted by gadget73 View PostIs that a phosphoric acid solution or something else ?
http://www.bilthamber.com/pro-introd...name=Corrosion Removal&name=deox-C
Andy.
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lookin good andy. i love seeing progress on this old darlinsigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
- 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust
- 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock
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thats some mean shit there!!!!!!!!'88' MGM wagon (mine and my sons toy)
"60" chrysler New Yorker (my project)
"78" Chevy 1 Ton P/U (yard horse)
"01" Ford Explorer (wifes DD)
"93" Chevy Suburban (my DD)
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Originally posted by QuicksterP71that did a nice job of cleaning it up. To bad you couldn't stick the entire fender in the rust remover.
Bit more progress at last! I've actually restored another car in the time I've been away! Not a classic though. A small teeny everyday thing! A 1997 Ford Fiesta 1.4 Ghia
Anyway, back to the country squire. Time to weld up the light in the fender
Here is a patch cut to cover the hole
And the hole cut out very accurately for a butt weld
Tacked in
The welding caused slight distortion so I made a decision to replace the weak lip so I can panel beat it back to shape without losing the shape. So, a piece of wood clamped across to keep it all straight and out comes the first part of the lip
and new lip welded in prior to cutting to width
fully welded in
Now to panel beat it all flat.......................tomorrow
Andy.
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