1990 country squire resto/lowrider in UK

[andyfanshawe]

Hi David.


Heres a photo of the energysuspension universal poly body mounts. One big washer up against the floorpan, the bigger black bush on next, then the frame, then the smaller poly bush, then the other big washer under that, then put the bolt and the tubes through and tighten up. No other spacers needed.

You can just about see the centre mount in this photo.


Any more info you need, let me know.
Andy.

[1987cp]

I take it this Dinitrol stuff works a bit better than the Permatex rust converter I tried that hardly did any long-term good at all?

[packman]

The body bushings are going to be the last thing I do to my mom's CV before paint. I'm still trying to figure out how I'm going to do this without help. It'll probably take more than one weekend to do, so I might need to take an extra day or two off from work. I love how clean everything looks underneath that wagon.


Packman

[87gtVIC]

Thanks Andy

I was referencing those pics from the beginning of your readers ride thread and you just answered my questions. Just couldnt figure it out from the pictures you had.

thanks!

Hi David.


Heres a photo of the energysuspension universal poly body mounts. One big washer up against the floorpan, the bigger black bush on next, then the frame, then the smaller poly bush, then the other big washer under that, then put the bolt and the tubes through and tighten up. No other spacers needed.

You can just about see the centre mount in this photo.


Any more info you need, let me know.
Andy.

[andyfanshawe]

Now its time to make the rear door on the drivers side to fit properly. For those who remember, the main door is now lined up well with the rear quarter and the rocker, but the window frame touches on the top right....



and is too far from the B post on the left........



So it needs to be moved to the left about 1 cm...ish.

Heres the first cuts with my trusty fav tool - my air saw..



As you can see I am cutting out the frame along with the steel it is attached to and then move it over a bit.

Here it is loose on one side


Other side not photographed but cut the same way.

Heres the door frameless!



Pity I can't get that to work! Looks good. Or could I? No, stop it - lets just get this car painted!!!

Completely cut loose and ready for prepping for welding



Here it is moved to the left a bit and tacked in. You can see how far it has moved over by the gap



Tacked in the other side



Fully welded



Now need to reassemble the door and move the window runners over a bit and also the dew wipe on the weatherstrip trim that goes on top of the door.
Then its on to the drivers door.

Andy.

[andyfanshawe]

Managed to get the door back on today and trial fitted the glass. And it all works!!

The gaps look superb...don't know how it comes over in the photos.





I love the smooth look already down the side.



And the glass is not blacked out yet. Looking forward to stripping it back down and prepping the door now for primer.

Andy.

[87gtVIC]

You really are going "all out." I love it!

[rellik god]

looks good andy. how much of a gap between front and rear door do you have

[andyfanshawe]

Hi rellik god.
Too much! But the gap between the front door and the fender is tiny, So it needs to be moved back.
The A post is rusty at the top anyway, so that will need cutting out and replacing pretty soon.

Andy.

[1990LTD]

andy I'm sorry if it's been discussed previously but what are you welding with? we are just starting to learn how to weld in school

[andyfanshawe]

andy I'm sorry if it's been discussed previously but what are you welding with? we are just starting to learn how to weld in school

Hi 1990LTD.
Most of it is done by MIG with argon/co2 shielding gas. If i have to weld heavier stuff, but not too heavy, and I can get away with it, and not set things on fire, I use oxy acetylene (gas welding).
I learnt to gas weld when i was 18, and I'm now 50! I love gas welding, but it does tend to distort things.

MIG is very quick but you can't play with the welds as you can with gas. And the beads are harder with MIG. Not as easy to clean up.

Are you enjoying it so far?

Andy.

[andyfanshawe]

Drivers door stripped down next and after removal of the door trim and glass, time to get rid of the handle and lock..





I'm seriously glad to get rid of those handles. I'll have 5 spare soon if anybody wants any!

The door mirror will be the next to go the way of the trash! When I took it off it fell apart! Have a look at the repair job underneath the mirror



When I looked at the door under the mirror it was obvious that the mirror had been hit and made a good job of bending the door



Here is the first attempt at straightening it out. Thick plates and a bolt between them



An hour or so later... the straight version



Its going to be welded up anyway and another mirror moved to a proper position a bit further forward. In fact I may even use the internals of the old mirror and design and build a new outer shell.

Andy.

[1990LTD]

Hi 1990LTD.
Most of it is done by MIG with argon/co2 shielding gas. If i have to weld heavier stuff, but not too heavy, and I can get away with it, and not set things on fire, I use oxy acetylene (gas welding).
I learnt to gas weld when i was 18, and I'm now 50! I love gas welding, but it does tend to distort things.

MIG is very quick but you can't play with the welds as you can with gas. And the beads are harder with MIG. Not as easy to clean up.

Are you enjoying it so far?

Andy.

cool, thanks - we have only been cutting so far with oxy-fuel welding torches. it is fun, but this week we actually get to use MIG. MIG seems to be a lot cheaper to get started with.

[andyfanshawe]

Progress is okay at the moment, certainly going to be a few hours spent in there this winter!!

Thinking forward, once every panel is cut, welded, smoothed prepped and primered, they are all going to come off and go into storage (may have to leave front fenders on though).

Car will be put into the centre of the garage with the wheels on a railway sleeper each. The the front and rear springs removed and the wagon lowered down onto its bump stops.

Then bump stops removed and wagon lowered further until the front ball joints go to their limit of side to side movement.

The distance from the bottom of the rocker flange to the floor will then be measured. This is the distance the body will be channeled over the chassis so I can get it on the floor at full drop on the future airsprings.

The car will then be raised back up to its original factory suspension position and soild rods fabricated and put in place of the springs.

Then the fun begins - car stripped to a shell and floor/firewall cutout and everything lowered. And welded up.

One thing I know for certain is that the hood will have to be a cowl induction one to clear the engine, that will have made a break upwards!!

This is going to be one fun winter!!!!!!

Andy.

[packman]

Hopefully this winter is not like last winter; for everybody's sake.



Packman