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+1 - and I thought American garages were tiny! Well, actually when house-hunting in '07 I'm sure we saw some garages that were at least that small. Saw a Cavalier in one and it looked cramped. Still, I've also made do in the past with no garage at all, and nearly any garage is an improvement over that.
2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
I know of the Fred Beans dealerships, they advertise on the Philadelphia radio/tv stations.
2020 Volvo XC90 T6 Momentum (Ice White / Blonde)
2022 Ram 1500 4x4 5.7 Etorque, Built to Serve Edition, (Granite Crystal / Black) Past Panthers
1989 Grand Marquis LS (Cabernet/Grey), 1989 Lincoln Town Car SS (White/Blue), 2004 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate (White/Black)
Originally posted by Lincolnmania
if its got tits or tires it's bound to give you trouble
Feels like ages that I made some progress on the car. a comnbination of a really busy job getting teenagers ready for their big exams in school, major house mods underway (my Wife's idea), elderly and poor health parents and 2 of my own kids!!
But, here we go.
There is wear in the tailgate hinges, or at least in the bottom one. Not quite so sure about the top one, so out it must come to assess its condition.
The three crossheaded screws are BIG and tight, so I had to use my air gun with a screwdriver attachment to shift them
Here it is removed with the rusty plate from behind it.
Now heres the wear in it. You can just see the worn rusty area where the roller goes in. It has worn slightly out of round, so I will weld it up and file it back into shape.
Heres a view under the tailgate
Rust starting to form in the seams. So after shotblasting........
Andy, I realize this is a loaded question and feel free to let me find out elsewhere, but you seem to be able to do anything with the body of a car so I thought to ask you
What's your process of smoothing edges of new sheet metal welded on to the old panel? Where do you even start? I am replacing both my 1/4 panels and would like to do everything myself besides the actual fabrication and welding. I would appreciate any guidance (anything not currently covered in this thread, which is a good resource, to be sure) that you could offer.
I've got someone to make the panels and someone to weld 'em in for me but after that I will be on my own. I also will not be painting for some time so it will need protection from the elements. Do you have any suggestions regarding the protection of the new body metal?
sigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
Now probably just the same as anyone else, I am always thinking of this project, even when I am busy. Probably too much thinking time, because.....
I think its time to perhaps lower this car but without lowering the suspension. This needs to be channelled. leave the chassis where it is and all the suspension but lower the body over it.
Now theres 2 ways to do this,
The first way will ensure the seats still fit but I'll loose interior height and my head may hit the roof (6' 2").
The second way will keep the interior height but may affect the seats.
Hmmm, more thinking needed. What do you guys think?
Andy.
Andy, I realize this is a loaded question and feel free to let me find out elsewhere, but you seem to be able to do anything with the body of a car so I thought to ask you
What's your process of smoothing edges of new sheet metal welded on to the old panel? Where do you even start? I am replacing both my 1/4 panels and would like to do everything myself besides the actual fabrication and welding. I would appreciate any guidance (anything not currently covered in this thread, which is a good resource, to be sure) that you could offer.
I've got someone to make the panels and someone to weld 'em in for me but after that I will be on my own. I also will not be painting for some time so it will need protection from the elements. Do you have any suggestions regarding the protection of the new body metal?
Hi 1990LTD.
No problems, anything to help you out.
Any welds just be ground down to the exact level or just below. Take care with the grinding or the metal will get hot and warp.
Put a thin skim of bondo on and flat it back with about 180 paper until you can see the contours appearing. Put another skim of bondo on and resand. Keep repeating this until you are reasonably happy. I then put on a coat of etch or epoxy primer, followed by a good coat of primer. Flat this back with 400 grade until it is smooth and sexy. Top coats can then go on.
This is just a quick outline and no doubt you will have other questions. I'm sure others will add also.
what do you use to grind the welds down? i have an angle grinder and a dremel at my disposal. the dremel is good for nothin so i think i will probably need to use the angle grinder if it's an acceptable tool for the job. i am assuming sanding blocks are really the only other things i will need besides materials (sandpaper, primers, rust protection etc)
is there anything i should specify when i'm having the panels made up? gauge of the steel being used, etc. being a n00b i don't know if that is important.
sigpic
- 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims
Hi.
I use an air powered grinder, but an angle grinder will be okay also.
To remove metal quickly i use a grinding disc on it, but for a softer finish (no grinding marks, I use one of these
You'll also need plenty of patience!
In the UK language, its about 22 gauge steel. About 0.8 - 1 mm?
check under bottom lip on tailgate take seam sealer off and bend folded metal at least.i had a rust hole in the middle and the rest of the gate looked good till i took skin off and found alot more rust all over.rust under seam sealer,up top and sides
check under bottom lip on tailgate take seam sealer off and bend folded metal at least.i had a rust hole in the middle and the rest of the gate looked good till i took skin off and found alot more rust all over.rust under seam sealer,up top and sides
You are quite right. I will certainly have to do that to be sure.
Heres the worn guide welded up and filed back
Now its tailgate off time to assess the lower hinge damage
On the floor awaiting dismantling
Have a look at this short vid of the wear. The pin and bushes are okay but the other pivot isnt
Its actually twisted. Must have been a lot of force to do that.
Rivet welds ground off and took apart then straightened. Didnt realise there was a bronze bush under there. I am going to machine another pin/rivet that is a tight fit in there.
For gods sake Andy, would you stop fooling around with dumb stuff like work and home stuff and give an update!!!! You know we are all like a bunch of junkies needing a fix so get on with the important stuff and give us all what we need!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
'88' MGM wagon (mine and my sons toy)
"60" chrysler New Yorker (my project)
"78" Chevy 1 Ton P/U (yard horse)
"01" Ford Explorer (wifes DD)
"93" Chevy Suburban (my DD)
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