Another Update.
I have the day off today, so I'm spending this gorgeous summer day outside working on Red. Took a break from the heat for a little while, and I thought I'd post some updates for you mangs, of what I have accomplished on the car in the past couple of weeks.
Chassis/Body Updates:
First up, we have Frame Braces from a Box Towncar. I have installed these on 3 stock '87 boxes so far, the PS one bolts right on, but all of them required the DS bulkhead to have new holes drilled and tapped, in order for it to bolt right on. Here's why. (See next pic)

As you can clearly see, the holes in the DS of the Crossmember which the braces bolt onto, are not only drilled further forward, but also at a different angle. This is why they will not bolt right on. All 3 boxes I have installed these on have had the same problem, and this is why. The PS is drilled in the correct place though and will bolt right on.

On the DS, I had to carefully Measure and Drill/Tap new holes for the braces to bolt onto the Bulkheads. PITA, but it worked out great. Don't worry, I know how to drill and tap a vehicle's frame, and there is no chance of these bolt holes stress cracking at any point in the future.

Frame Braces painted with a rust-resistant Red Base, and then topcoated with Midnight Canyon Red Metallic. Makes for a very durable finish, which will not chip, and can easily stand up to road abuse.

Installed. Made the entire car feel alot stiffer, ride a little smoother, and feel more stable during hard cornering. Definitely a worthwhile upgrade.

Next up, we have Fender/Core Support Braces from a Box Wagon. These will bolt right on with no problems.

Painted these with a durable Red Base, waiting until I paint the jambs to topcoat them.

Installed. The Body of the car feels noticeably stiffer with these installed. A nice and cheap factory upgrade for sure.


Interior Updates:
Finally got around to installing a basic aftermarket stereo system. Here are the install pics.
A good used set of 6x9 3-way Rockford Fosgate speakers. These can handle up to 180w without blowing out.

Installed, and bolted down in the already present holes in the rear deck.


Sony Xplōd CDX-GT110 CD Player, that I bought off of an eBay seller for only $20! It works great, and even has an Aux input for me to hook my ipod up to!

All the wiring for the entire deal with everything labeled and ready to be hooked up, it's pretty simple. I used an aftermarket power harness adapter, to hook up the head unit power wires to the car stock stereo power harness. Gave me a completely trouble free install. It's nice when things just work.

Head Unit Installed. I used the stock stereo bracket, modified it, and bolted it to the back of the unit, to hold in into the dash bracket just like the original unit was. Then, since there is no way to bolt it to the outer skin of the dash, I stuffed blocks of soft foam under the bottom of the stereo to act as shock absorbers, and keep it from skipping over hard bumps. Finally, I had to fabricate a trim piece out of black plastic to cover up the gaping holes between the dash trim and the unit.

Next up, I will have many pics of my progress with the Slicktop Conversion. I'm taking my time with it, because I want it to come out right. That way I only have to do it once.
Now,
I have the day off today, so I'm spending this gorgeous summer day outside working on Red. Took a break from the heat for a little while, and I thought I'd post some updates for you mangs, of what I have accomplished on the car in the past couple of weeks.
Chassis/Body Updates:
First up, we have Frame Braces from a Box Towncar. I have installed these on 3 stock '87 boxes so far, the PS one bolts right on, but all of them required the DS bulkhead to have new holes drilled and tapped, in order for it to bolt right on. Here's why. (See next pic)

As you can clearly see, the holes in the DS of the Crossmember which the braces bolt onto, are not only drilled further forward, but also at a different angle. This is why they will not bolt right on. All 3 boxes I have installed these on have had the same problem, and this is why. The PS is drilled in the correct place though and will bolt right on.

On the DS, I had to carefully Measure and Drill/Tap new holes for the braces to bolt onto the Bulkheads. PITA, but it worked out great. Don't worry, I know how to drill and tap a vehicle's frame, and there is no chance of these bolt holes stress cracking at any point in the future.

Frame Braces painted with a rust-resistant Red Base, and then topcoated with Midnight Canyon Red Metallic. Makes for a very durable finish, which will not chip, and can easily stand up to road abuse.

Installed. Made the entire car feel alot stiffer, ride a little smoother, and feel more stable during hard cornering. Definitely a worthwhile upgrade.

Next up, we have Fender/Core Support Braces from a Box Wagon. These will bolt right on with no problems.

Painted these with a durable Red Base, waiting until I paint the jambs to topcoat them.

Installed. The Body of the car feels noticeably stiffer with these installed. A nice and cheap factory upgrade for sure.


Interior Updates:
Finally got around to installing a basic aftermarket stereo system. Here are the install pics.
A good used set of 6x9 3-way Rockford Fosgate speakers. These can handle up to 180w without blowing out.

Installed, and bolted down in the already present holes in the rear deck.


Sony Xplōd CDX-GT110 CD Player, that I bought off of an eBay seller for only $20! It works great, and even has an Aux input for me to hook my ipod up to!

All the wiring for the entire deal with everything labeled and ready to be hooked up, it's pretty simple. I used an aftermarket power harness adapter, to hook up the head unit power wires to the car stock stereo power harness. Gave me a completely trouble free install. It's nice when things just work.


Head Unit Installed. I used the stock stereo bracket, modified it, and bolted it to the back of the unit, to hold in into the dash bracket just like the original unit was. Then, since there is no way to bolt it to the outer skin of the dash, I stuffed blocks of soft foam under the bottom of the stereo to act as shock absorbers, and keep it from skipping over hard bumps. Finally, I had to fabricate a trim piece out of black plastic to cover up the gaping holes between the dash trim and the unit.

Next up, I will have many pics of my progress with the Slicktop Conversion. I'm taking my time with it, because I want it to come out right. That way I only have to do it once.

Now,

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