My 1987 Two Door Crown Victoria AKA THE BROWN BLOB

[sly]

Or there's a hole around the wideband bung making it see fresh air.

[gadget73]

New car name. Cornholio. Need TP for the bunghole.

[87gtVIC]

The gauge using PID (HEGO 1) is the passenger side... aka Bank 1
The gauge using PID (HEGO 2) is the drivers side....... aka Bank 2

Your wideband is definitely lying to you. The sensor is probably dinked, probably from being exposed to rich conditions over time. I use a innovate controller with a parts shelf available wide band from a volkswagen jetta. If need be I just go get another one.

Thanks for the confirmation. Autometer is taking the gauge back to check it out. Just this Saturday I replaced the wideband sensor with a brand new one from autometer. Still gave same exact results.

Or there's a hole around the wideband bung making it see fresh air.

Tuner mentioned that as well. There is visably nothing wrong under the car where the sensor mounts to.

New car name. Cornholio. Need TP for the bunghole.

hahahhaaaa.




Took her out this afternoon and this guy was excited to see the car:

[gadget73]

Don't lie, that was 4 years ago.

[87gtVIC]

Im lazy and dont reset the damn date and time.

[86VickyLX]

Where's your hood ornament?

[87gtVIC]

I have a delete ornament in place so the car cover does not interfere with it/damage the cover/damage the paint.

[packman]

My bad Dave; I'm too lazy to go back and look; what brand AFR gauge is that?

[87gtVIC]

Autometer NV 7378 wideband.


For anyone wanting to know anything about the car you can always click on "The Brown Blob" in my signature and it brings you to a page with basically all the info on parts on the car.

[gadget73]

Bumper complete.

Entire backside was coated to prevent future corrosion and just piece of mind. Next step will be placing this in the attic and getting the NOS rear smoothie bumper out for the same preservation treatment. Cannot hurt.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]49888[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]49889[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]49890[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]49891[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]49892[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]49893[/ATTACH]

What did you use for this? I'd like to give the Conti's replacement bumpers the same treatment to keep them from getting worse inside. They currently have the rust you'd expect for 1985 parts. I also need to treat the cowl area. Its basically the same as a Mustang in that department, but the paint inside is peeling loose and its got a lot of bare slightly rusty sheet metal exposed. Its not visible so the color is not important but I do not want it to rot out either.

[87gtVIC]

Cleaned the backside up nice and good.
Went to town with a scotchbrite ball attached to a drill on the entire backside. Think I was using 150 grit scotchbrite ball from harbor freight.
Treated any rusty areas with rust converter from eastwood.
Scuffed everything again with the same ball and then coated with rust encapsulator by eastwood.
Scuffed everything again with the same ball and then a red scotchbrite pad by hand and applied chassis black paint by eastwood.

I used stuff I had on hand.

I am sure getting a good tooth in the surface is the key. Whatever you put on next cant hurt. Id imagine topping everything off at time of installation with some fluid film/equivalent would make things stay nice for a really long time.

[gadget73]

Thanks. Looks like its time to order some potions. I'll post some pics in the Conti thread of what I need to deal with on it.

[87gtVIC]

Been doing endless research on getting this 5speed swap down...the boring part of it...wiring.

I'd like to wire in all of the special doodads if they fit underneath the dash. They all attach to the pedal assembly:

p.side has the cruise control deactivation switch



d.side has the clutch neutral safety switch which consist of two doodads. One (top port (black connector(not pictured))) allows the power to the tfi and the starter solenoid when the clutch pedal is fully engaged while the other (bottom port(gray connector(not pictured))) tells the computer that the transmission is essentially in neutral/not engaged when the clutch pedal is fully engaged.



Cruise thing is easy. Intercept the output of the stop lamp switch (mounted on brake pedal) and plum it in then out of the cruise control deactivation switch.


black plug (top port) is not too bad either. Just redirect the wires to from the auto tranny mounted neutral safety switch to this plug and Im good.

gray plug (bottom port) requires a bit more work. Looks like I will have to add a pin to my ecu connector (pin 30) and the other half of that is just off pin 46 which is the sig return pin.

all in all not hard. Again, no clue if any of this stuff will fit. Just things I would like to do if it is possible.

Did a bit more digging with this and found an error in my previous descriptions. Turns out the gray plug also ties into the neutral switch on the transmission. So the transmissions physical switch tells the computer that it is in neutral and the clutch mounted switch tells the computer it is between gears (pedal depressed).

[87gtVIC]

Havent started her up in about three weeks. Turned the key today after work and she kicked right over. Gotta love that!

Anyways here she sits with the dd Benz behind her.













Hot as anything outside so I decided not to play around with the AFR gauge. It came back from Autometer saying everything was fine with it. They threw in a wide band sensor free of charge and then I picked up another harness that goes between the gauge and the wide band sensor. Will test out everything to see what the hell is going on once the weather gets to a more reasonable temperature.

[DerekTheGreat]

Mighty fine looking car, sir. You must get tired of hearing that. I love the wheels on 'er too, the bright rim is a great look and goes with the other brightwork on the car. Absolutely love the car and wish it was mine. What would you think about putting that opera light band in that came on the full roof ASC cars? Or the LTD Landau light that was on what, '79-'82 cars?