My 1987 Two Door Crown Victoria AKA THE BROWN BLOB

[87gtVIC]

Been doing endless research on getting this 5speed swap down...the boring part of it...wiring.

I'd like to wire in all of the special doodads if they fit underneath the dash. They all attach to the pedal assembly:

p.side has the cruise control deactivation switch



d.side has the clutch neutral safety switch which consist of two doodads. One (top port (black connector(not pictured))) allows the power to the tfi and the starter solenoid when the clutch pedal is fully engaged while the other (bottom port(gray connector(not pictured))) tells the computer that the transmission is essentially in neutral/not engaged when the clutch pedal is fully engaged.



Cruise thing is easy. Intercept the output of the stop lamp switch (mounted on brake pedal) and plum it in then out of the cruise control deactivation switch.


black plug (top port) is not too bad either. Just redirect the wires to from the auto tranny mounted neutral safety switch to this plug and Im good.

gray plug (bottom port) requires a bit more work. Looks like I will have to add a pin to my ecu connector (pin 30) and the other half of that is just off pin 46 which is the sig return pin.

all in all not hard. Again, no clue if any of this stuff will fit. Just things I would like to do if it is possible.

[gadget73]

I didn't realize the clutch tied in with the neutral signal feedback to the ECM. I always figured the ECM relied on the neutral safety switch to know it was in neutral and really didn't care about the clutch pedal.

[87gtVIC]

I didn't realize the clutch tied in with the neutral signal feedback to the ECM. I always figured the ECM relied on the neutral safety switch to know it was in neutral and really didn't care about the clutch pedal.

Something to do with rpms between shifts or something along those lines....


Anyways took her out for a spin today, washed the wheels (neighbor mows lawn with weedwacker) and dusted the rest of the car off. Still futzing around with tuning. AFR gauge is LOCKED in on 20 with current tune. Change between other tunes from way back when and I get a 14.9 at idle but it runs like poo. These new tunes and tunes that have worked in the past (before the TMOSS lower intake) all make the AFR stay near 20. I checked grounds on afr gauge, checked power. Swapped wideband sensor....All of that does not matter though because there are older tunes where the afr gauge will read normal now. Its just frustrating. At least it looks good. That's the only thing bringing me back to the car. I really just want to buy a brand new Mustang or Challenger.

[86VickyLX]

Have you tried a fresh air recalibration with your wideband? This is done to reduce bad readings and help the wideband controller compensate for an older sensor. In my case, you unplug the wideband sensor and allow the controller to power up. Turn it off. Then plug in the sensor with it out of the exhaust (in fresh air). Turn the controller, and it should recalibrate. If this does not work, it's possible your wideband is bad or damaged.

[87gtVIC]

Ive heard of this. I will have to check over the manual for the gauge I have, though off the top of me head I dont believe autometer gauges have a calibration function. With different tunes I do get different readings from the gauge though. All readings from the gauge also show up on the datalogger matching the gauge face. Since the gauge is reacting differently with different tunes I am inclined to believe it is functioning, but at what capacity is the question.

Right now with my current set up its reading dead lean. While driving and I get on the gas (hammer it) and let off it goes rich for a couple seconds and goes back to dead lean. All of this is reflected in the datalogs as well.

Thanks for chiming in. I'll check the calibration thing out.

Have you tried a fresh air recalibration with your wideband? This is done to reduce bad readings and help the wideband controller compensate for an older sensor. In my case, you unplug the wideband sensor and allow the controller to power up. Turn it off. Then plug in the sensor with it out of the exhaust (in fresh air). Turn the controller, and it should recalibrate. If this does not work, it's possible your wideband is bad or damaged.

[87gtVIC]

AutoMeter utilizes an advanced calibration method that automatically calibrates your gauge on every startup to assure you of the highest degree of accuracy over the entire lifespan of your sensor (no free air calibration is ever necessary).

From the manual.

[gadget73]

Whats the narrow band sensor have to say? Are they switching or are they pegged lean too?

[87gtVIC]

The lights around the gauge agree with the digital readout.

It may be dinked. Have to contact autometer and test it out/get the gauge replaced. Latest tune he made VERY rich and the car was unhappy and so were my eyes lol. Unfortunately no change in the gauge face readings/datalogs.

[gadget73]

The lights in your Autometer gauge? I would expect that to jive with the broadband since it should run from it. I was thinking more along the lines of what does the ECM get from the narrow band. Assuming you're able to plug in to your ECM and read output from it while driving anyway. Not sure what hardware you are using but I can do that with my QuarterHorse, it just needs the laptop plugged in and the software running. It will let me configure a "dashboard" of sorts that pulls data off the various ECM sensors, including oxygen sensors. It has a simple lean/rich bar graph thing and the pointer flips back and forth. If its bouncing, the sensors are switching.

[87gtVIC]

The lights in your Autometer gauge? I would expect that to jive with the broadband since it should run from it. I was thinking more along the lines of what does the ECM get from the narrow band. Assuming you're able to plug in to your ECM and read output from it while driving anyway. Not sure what hardware you are using but I can do that with my QuarterHorse, it just needs the laptop plugged in and the software running. It will let me configure a "dashboard" of sorts that pulls data off the various ECM sensors, including oxygen sensors. It has a simple lean/rich bar graph thing and the pointer flips back and forth. If its bouncing, the sensors are switching.

I apologize. I didnt know you were referring to the cars stock o2 narrow bands. According to my tuner they are reading rich based of their voltages.


Here is a video I have from the other day. I am not to sure if the things you are referring to are on it.

Here is also a datalog. if you can tell me which header is for o2 voltages that wold be great...thats if I have it selected in the payload for the datalog...

the attached datalog is from when the wideband was scaled to 16 as its highest number.

A9P David B tune9 2018_May_25_12-06-07 14 sec idle 16 lean.zip

[gadget73]

hm, yeah if the narrow sensors show rich while the other shows very lean I'm going with the wideband is lying to you. Looks like the narrow band sensors are switching so they're in the 14-15:1 realm. Idle mix also isn't horribly critical, it can run lean. Under power is where you have to really mind it. if it was really running that lean I would expect to hear loads of pinging and have it feel generally lousy.

[87gtVIC]

Yeah it does none of that. Im not overly concerned anymore. I have reached out to autometer to see whats up wit my gauge/set up. In the past it has worked great and datalogged properly. I would like that to work again so we can get the car running better with the new lower tmoss ported gt 40 intake.


This all came up after starting the car once I was done swapping in the ported lower. Before that the gauge and logs of the afr was working as expected. What am I to think after changing the engine setup. Gotta trust your instrumentation, right. Well not always...we will see what comes of this.

[87gtVIC]

No pinging or popping. Just gauge weirdness.

[87gtVIC]

Highway:

[86VickyLX]

The gauge using PID (HEGO 1) is the passenger side... aka Bank 1
The gauge using PID (HEGO 2) is the drivers side....... aka Bank 2

Your wideband is definitely lying to you. The sensor is probably dinked, probably from being exposed to rich conditions over time. I use a innovate controller with a parts shelf available wide band from a volkswagen jetta. If need be I just go get another one.