My 1987 Two Door Crown Victoria AKA THE BROWN BLOB

[86VickyLX]

Make sure the tune written to the quarterhorse is actually what the chip is running off of and not corrupt. Easy way to tell if it's corrupt is to turn the ignition on. If the fuel pump runs constantly it's got a corrupt tune or it's running off of the wrong mode.

[BlackVic_P71]

Yeah, I got that same regulator and had to mess around to get stock bolts to hold it, then saw it won't clear the intake for my gauge hook up. I have a stock regulator on and pressure gauge on the feed line, so far, so good.

[87gtVIC]

Make sure the tune written to the quarterhorse is actually what the chip is running off of and not corrupt. Easy way to tell if it's corrupt is to turn the ignition on. If the fuel pump runs constantly it's got a corrupt tune or it's running off of the wrong mode.

Fuel pump runs then cuts off like it should with chip installed.

Yeah, I got that same regulator and had to mess around to get stock bolts to hold it, then saw it won't clear the intake for my gauge hook up. I have a stock regulator on and pressure gauge on the feed line, so far, so good.

Stock bolts did not want to go in at all on mine. I found perfect bolts in the garage and all is well.

Its very tight with this regulator but fits fine. No way ever for a gauge to fit though through the provided port.

[gadget73]

The gauge I had replaced the stock pressure test port on the rail. Nothing going on up in that front corner, just need the proper adapter. I want to say its 1/16 MNPT to 1/8 FNPT but your gauge would determine the female side of it.

[87gtVIC]

Im gonna worry about getting a running engine before adding doodads.

I do remember seeing yours installed years back on the stock schrader valve and always wanting one for myself.

[gadget73]

well, it eventually went bad and I'm back to stock again. I might have the adapter around someplace, but I couldn't guess where it might be.

[87gtVIC]

Im bummed.

Diddled around with the car again with limited success.

Have strong spark

Proper firing order

Have fuel, though the gauge will bleed out quickly back to zero (should just make for longer cranking to start the thing) NO visible/smell-able fuel leaks. Pressure in high 30's. The bleed out should not affect anything once pressure is achieved.

PLugs are black and kinda wet from fuel NGK plugs not liking them..well I am not liking anything atm.

Rotated engine to tdc on compression stroke and dropped the dizzy in on 10btdc with rotor button pointing at #1. (kinda confuzled about this because you can drop the dizzy in a bunch of spots and still rotate it to have the rotor button hitting where #1 is)

Good grounds and power everywhere (power probe IV confirmed (awesome tool BTW))

Check for continuity/power/ground on all pins from computer to locations NOT including injectors and o2 sensors. (Power prob confirmed)

Ref V of 5V at proper locations.

Noid light on injector connectors.

Replaced battery. Old battery was shot. musta been LOW on cranking amps. Starter/engine kicks over MUCH faster now.

Still no start or run.

Thinking the timing set install was done incorrectly. We did it STRAIGHT up. But who the hell knows if the timing gears were stamped right. They were adjustable for advance or retard. Obviously we are retard. lol No really we read instructions and did straight up.

Stupid ass NEW 80 dollar heater pipe is leaking at the damn O rings Have new o rings but I prepped the old pipe by cutting the coolant nipple to the egr spacer off and welding it shut. Placed in the new o rings and will install that one tomorrow. Fuck that new pipe.

Pulling upper intake and then pulling pside valve cover off to confirm if both intake and exhaust valves are closed when at TDC on #1 compression

Kinda....uhhh...really wishing I left the old engine in.

[87gtVIC]

Some more to add...

TPS was set at .97volts

No throttle response at all if the engine catches and decides to sorta run.

[Tiggie]

This is starting to worry me - I hope you get it running soon!

I got a variable Venturi carburetor I'll send you for cheap

[gadget73]

If you have the cam card and a dial indicator you can confirm the cam location without breaking into things. Ideally you'd want a degree wheel on the crank to do this too.

I wonder if the fuel bleed is a leaky injector dribbling into the engine. Should still light off but it might be overly rich. Maybe try cranking it with the throttle full open if its flooded. That will stop injector pulse and let it clear out.


The distributor will only go in one place and line up with where it goes. If its a tooth off either way, it should be 20 degrees or so off kilter. Make sure the distributor is fully down though, the spiral cut gear will cause it to change position as it drops into the motor. You want the TFI module about in the middle of it's travel between where it hits the thermostat and where it hits the valve cover. There is enough travel to make up for a tooth either way but it has to be pretty much maxed out in either direction to do it.

Does the timing light tell you you're close? Even if it won't start it should flash and show the marks being close to reality if its where it belongs.


Kinda sounds like a timing issue. Obviously it has fuel, but spark or cam events might be off. If its way far off on the cam, you'd probably notice it cranks oddly. The valves will open at the wrong times and dump compression.

[87gtVIC]

If you have the cam card and a dial indicator you can confirm the cam location without breaking into things. Ideally you'd want a degree wheel on the crank to do this too.

I wonder if the fuel bleed is a leaky injector dribbling into the engine. Should still light off but it might be overly rich. Maybe try cranking it with the throttle full open if its flooded. That will stop injector pulse and let it clear out.


The distributor will only go in one place and line up with where it goes. If its a tooth off either way, it should be 20 degrees or so off kilter. Make sure the distributor is fully down though, the spiral cut gear will cause it to change position as it drops into the motor. You want the TFI module about in the middle of it's travel between where it hits the thermostat and where it hits the valve cover. There is enough travel to make up for a tooth either way but it has to be pretty much maxed out in either direction to do it.

Does the timing light tell you you're close? Even if it won't start it should flash and show the marks being close to reality if its where it belongs.


Kinda sounds like a timing issue. Obviously it has fuel, but spark or cam events might be off. If its way far off on the cam, you'd probably notice it cranks oddly. The valves will open at the wrong times and dump compression.

I have the cam card and a degree wheel kit. Never used it during assembly because it was hard to understand and dad believed it was for racing engine only. Installed everything straight up according to timing gears. Anything is possible but I doubt the cam is wrong.

Will try full throttle crank. Will check if the tps works through it full range and in turn find out if it is meshed correctly with throttle blade. TPS is from old engine transferred to new throttle body.

Dizzy is fully down all the time as we see the rotor button rotate clockwise while the gears mesh. My TFI is remotely mounted so I have a lot more room then usual. Going to pull number 1 plug out (again) rotate engine find compression and stop at 10btdc and see where the rotor is pointing in relation to number one on the cap.

Haven't bothered using the timing light yet as the car does not run. Will try it out.

[87gtVIC]

Installed straight up...

http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?26257-My-1987-Two-Door-Crown-Victoria-AKA-THE-BROWN-BLOB&p=764077&viewfull=1#post764077

Also look like number ones intake and exhaust valves are closed once at TDC

[Brown_Muscle]

This probably isn't your issue, but I figured I'd ask. Was the computer taken from a proven working car? I assume you've had it open since you installed the chip, all the capacitors looked ok? If the computer is fubar than you'll have a plethora of issues.

You could always try rotating the dizzy while cranking to see if you can get it to start...if there is a question of timing.

Sorry to hear this is giving you so much trouble, you'll find it, just have to keep looking

[gadget73]

Other thought, is the MAF itself good? Maybe try unplugging it. If they're dicked it won't want to go, but they will run with no sensor connected in the event of a screwup.

Might also be worth confirming your wiring, or at least doing a key-on self test to see if it comes up with anything obviously telling. Doubt it will, but it will tell if the ecm has some life to it.

[87gtVIC]

This probably isn't your issue, but I figured I'd ask. Was the computer taken from a proven working car? I assume you've had it open since you installed the chip, all the capacitors looked ok? If the computer is fubar than you'll have a plethora of issues.

You could always try rotating the dizzy while cranking to see if you can get it to start...if there is a question of timing.

Sorry to hear this is giving you so much trouble, you'll find it, just have to keep looking

Computer was purchased online. eBay or other years ago. Nothing looked wrong when I was inside of it

I also do to know how to get the binary editor to see the tune. I have the licenses for binary editor.

Other thought, is the MAF itself good? Maybe try unplugging it. If they're dicked it won't want to go, but they will run with no sensor connected in the event of a screwup.

Might also be worth confirming your wiring, or at least doing a key-on self test to see if it comes up with anything obviously telling. Doubt it will, but it will tell if the ecm has some life to it.

I checked all wiring from 60 pin to areas. All good. Maf plugged/ unplugged all the same. This is the second Maf I tried.

I tried to scan for codes and that does not work.