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**Lincolnmania** · 05-21-2010, 06:05 AM

it wasnt a cash for clunkers motor that slipped thru the cracks i hope.......one of the yards that i go to didnt mark their cfc motors but some marking on the windshield......all the other yards sprayed the engines with bright spray paint

**FatNasty** · 05-21-2010, 04:36 PM

Nah, just bought it from some guy, not a yard. Still just had regular oil in the pan, i'd imagine a cfc motor looks pretty damn bad.

**gadget73** · 05-21-2010, 05:18 PM

I really have a hard time imagining a legit reason why the compression would be so bad without obvious signs of issues. If the rings were that wiped, you should have seen sludged up spark plugs and really nasty piston tops.

Might want to try a leakdown test before you yank it. That will tell you if the leakage is rings or otherwise. HF has cheapo testers. I wouldn't really trust one for accuracy, but you'll hear the air leaking out of someplace. Valve cover means dead rings, throttle body means intake valve, exhaust means exhaust valve.

**Pirate** · 05-23-2010, 01:00 AM

Originally posted by FatNasty View Post

Nah, just bought it from some guy, not a yard. Still just had regular oil in the pan, i'd imagine a cfc motor looks pretty damn bad.

I got to see a couple of CFC'd Exploder motors.

It wouldn't have ever ran.

**FatNasty** · 05-25-2010, 01:15 AM

Originally posted by gadget73 View Post

I really have a hard time imagining a legit reason why the compression would be so bad without obvious signs of issues. If the rings were that wiped, you should have seen sludged up spark plugs and really nasty piston tops.

Might want to try a leakdown test before you yank it. That will tell you if the leakage is rings or otherwise. HF has cheapo testers. I wouldn't really trust one for accuracy, but you'll hear the air leaking out of someplace. Valve cover means dead rings, throttle body means intake valve, exhaust means exhaust valve.

Yeah, the more i think about this, the more i'm thinking it has to be some sort of valve issue. Either I adjusted them wrong or something. The plugs i took out of the motor looked ideal, and the piston tops looked pretty normal too.

When putting the motor back together i used Lifters, springs, and rocker arms from the exploder motor from my merc which had 42K miles on them and looked immaculate. The pushrods i used were from this current motor. I assumed nothing changed between '97/98 and '01, but does anyone know if i might be wrong about that?

I'll probably go pick up a leakdown tester tomorrow to verify valves and not rings.

Pushrods can be put in either direction correct? I think i've heard when re-using them, put them in the opposite way, is that correct? what else could cause valves not to seal assuming the valves are straight and clean, and the sealing surfaces are as they should be?

**Pirate** · 05-25-2010, 12:36 PM

Originally posted by FatNasty View Post

Yeah, the more i think about this, the more i'm thinking it has to be some sort of valve issue. Either I adjusted them wrong or something. The plugs i took out of the motor looked ideal, and the piston tops looked pretty normal too.

When putting the motor back together i used Lifters, springs, and rocker arms from the exploder motor from my merc which had 42K miles on them and looked immaculate. The pushrods i used were from this current motor. I assumed nothing changed between '97/98 and '01, but does anyone know if i might be wrong about that?

I'll probably go pick up a leakdown tester tomorrow to verify valves and not rings.

Pushrods can be put in either direction correct? I think i've heard when re-using them, put them in the opposite way, is that correct? what else could cause valves not to seal assuming the valves are straight and clean, and the sealing surfaces are as they should be?

I'm curious if the lifters ever pumped up....

**FatNasty** · 05-26-2010, 01:27 AM

Took the valve covers off to find that all the rocker arms were REALLY loose, up to a quarter inch of lash. I think i had used an antiquated method of valve adjusting incorrect for these stock rocker arms. it had just left them too loose to begin with and then got really bad. Tightened everything up as it should be but ran out of daylight. I'll give it a shot tomorrow hopefully that was my last problem. Had roller rockers on my last motor, this was my first time dealing with the stock stuff.

**gadget73** · 05-26-2010, 05:44 PM

Stock stuff is easy, just torque it down. You should check for proper preload though. You want to hit zero lash, and then reach torque 1/2-1 turn past zero lash. The only time you have to adjust stuff is when you're dealing with stud mount rockers.

**FatNasty** · 05-26-2010, 09:37 PM

Started up great. Quiet and smooth, took it around the block a few times and everything seemed in order. The only problems i'm having is the idle. When its warmed up if i'm in park or neutral the idle goes up and down, and when it goes down it usually dies. it stays running fine when i keep my foot on the gas. I had cleaned out the iac with carb cleaner before i put it back on, and when i unplug it, it dies as i'm pretty sure it should. TPS is set correctly. Vacuum was holding steady at like 17. If i'm in drive or reverse it idles just fine all day. Checked for codes, just EGR and smog pump stuff since i removed it all. What might cause that hot idle issue, and only in park and neutral? Also, i was wondering if it is better to leave the EGR regulator and position sensor plugged into the wiring harness or not. Seems like you would want the position sensor plugged in to let the computer know its shut. Is that basically what those egr delete plug in things do?

Just very happy to get it running again, got a job today to

**gadget73** · 05-27-2010, 05:10 PM

Honestly if you have the provisions in the intake, I'd put the EGR crap on and make it work. If thats not possible, you want to make the ECM think the EGR is closed all the time. Either use resistors to trick it (the eliminator plug is 2 resistors), or leave the egr valve and sensor physically in place, but with no vacuum on it. The regulator probably ought to stay otherwise you'll get some other code about an open circuit. As long as the ECM sees the EGR valve closed, it won't screw with the fuel mix or timing.

**FatNasty** · 05-27-2010, 06:58 PM

These intakes didn't have the internal egr provisions so i'm running without. Just have stuff plugged in and sitting there with no vac until i get an egr simulator. So do i just need the EGR position sensor plugged in, or should it be bolted to the valve also. I wouldn't think there would be much difference.

I thought that having the smog sensors plugged in w/ no vac would keep them from throwing codes, but they still do, they don't in the marquis where i did the same thing. Wonder if the difference between 87 and 90 wiring harnesses causes that.

**FatNasty** · 05-27-2010, 10:33 PM

Bolted the EGR sensor back to the valve. Drove around about 10 miles today, everything seems great while driving. Still won't idle in park or neutral though, fluctuates and dies on the low. Sometimes if its fluctuating and i put it in drive it will keep fluctuating, but smooths out after about 30 seconds. What might be causing this?

**gadget73** · 05-27-2010, 11:34 PM

With the solenoids plugged in and no vacuum, you'll usually get 44, 94, and probably a 34. 44 and 94 are air injection system inoperative, 34 is egr valve not opening. There are other codes that show up if the solenoids are just not there.

Position sensor has to be on the valve or you'll get yet another code that says something about the EVP failing below closed limit. The plunger will stick out too far without the valve on there.

Try metering the temperature sensors. If the ECT or ACT are whacked out, it can mess with the idle. What TPS are you using, and does that test OK ? Might also be worth setting the throttle stop screw so that it will idle at say 500 rpm without the IAC plugged in, just to give it some minimum.

**FatNasty** · 06-02-2010, 01:21 AM

Checked the ACT and ECT sensors, and both were perfectly in range. Turned the throttle stop screw in some, and readjusted the tps and the idle is fine now. Using an explorer tps rewired into a panther harness btw, fits better than the panther ones. That seemed to be the last of my issues.

Drove it all over town today, and took it on the freeway. Definitely more power, can light up the tires now. Put it away for the afternoon and went to run an errand tonight. Got like a mile from home, then got stuck behind some ass driving like 20 in a 35. Was riding the brake behind him for a bit when the car started shaking/shuddering a bit and stumbling. Turned around to drive straight back home. temp and oil pressure both good. The problem was very noticeable when accelerating. the shifts seemed smooth, but it felt like a transmission issue. Exhaust sounded kinda funny too. Back in the driveway i put it in park, engine ran completely smooth. Revved it up and it was smooth. Tranny fluid was my first suspicion, but the level was in range. Didn't smell burned at all, i actually couldn't smell anything at all. Tv cable still hooked up correctly. Only thing out of place i saw was a couple drips of coolant from the radiator drain that probably wasn't all the way closed. I'll take a better look in the light tomorrow at everything, any ideas for now though?

**Pirate** · 06-02-2010, 01:25 AM

I'm wondering if the fuel pump might be acting up.

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