what i hope to complete one day

[import convert]

true. now if i went with a 351 can i use 302 heads? and if i can which i think i can and just answered my own question, will it raise my compression at all?

[1987cp]

Sure, if you get the bolt holes drilled out to 1/2" versus 7/16" for a 302. Whether it changes the compression ratio will depend on the exact head used, as chamber sizes vary, as well as what piston you choose. Don't quote me on this, but I'm pretty sure a nominal 9:1 piston is rated at 9:1 with stock Mustang heads (E7TE) with about 60-63cc chambers (production tolerance). Static compression will be somewhat lower with GT40 Explorer heads (F3ZE; about 64-66cc) and a touch higher with Gt40P's (F7ZZ; about 59-61cc). Older small-block heads from the '60s often have smaller chambers for even higher compression, apparently about 49-50cc for 1963 (C3OE) and 54-55cc starting in '64 (C4OE, C5OE, etc.). So the older heads are desirable in a way for their smaller chambers, but pedestal-mount rockers were used only in '78 and newer designs, so you'll definitely need stud-mount rockers if you were to go with an older head desigh. Also, according to my reading, chamber sizes will vary even on the same head, so you'll have to CC all of them to be sure.

[import convert]

hmmm. i had a feeling i had to mod 302 heads to work. well i guess its worth it for the bigger motor

[1987cp]

Yeah, probably would be. I've started kicking around ideas for rebuilding my '79 351W block one of these days. If I can figure out how to fix the buggered spark plug hole on my extra set of GT40s, maybe I could have them drilled out and use those. Or maybe I should ask Turbo what he and his buddy can do with the abysmal D8OE units I took off the thing in the first place (huge 69cc chambers), and run 10:1 pistons to bring the compression back up.

[Mr. Land Yacht]

sounds like you have some great ideas mang.
GT40 heads are a good start.
if you're looking to make say 250-300hp, it can be done...with the right Cam and Intake.
as far as headers...I would recommend going with some shorties..1 5/8" primaries...if you were looking to get like 400hp from the motor, I would say make a set of long tubes fit...but it wouldn't be that drastic of a difference.
Summit makes some great shorties...I ahd a set, I never put them on, but they were kool.
Ceramic coated is the way to go..any painted ones will rust pretty quick.
summit has them for $230...not bad at all for what they are...nice thick flanges and thick tubes as well.

[import convert]

yea i just cant decide between a cam wiht a 2000-5500 rpm power band or one with a 1500-5500 rpm power band. i figure if the power band is shorter itd be a stronger power band then a cam wiht a longer powerband but i could be wrong

[1987cp]

sounds like you have some great ideas mang.
GT40 heads are a good start.
if you're looking to make say 250-300hp, it can be done...with the right Cam and Intake.
as far as headers...I would recommend going with some shorties..1 5/8" primaries...if you were looking to get like 400hp from the motor, I would say make a set of long tubes fit...but it wouldn't be that drastic of a difference.
Summit makes some great shorties...I ahd a set, I never put them on, but they were kool.
Ceramic coated is the way to go..any painted ones will rust pretty quick.
summit has them for $230...not bad at all for what they are...nice thick flanges and thick tubes as well.

At least on paper, 300hp is easy to do with an E303 cam and stock GT40 heads (see attached; Crane's 444231 is identical to the E303). Just be prepared to get an expensive torque converter (Summit rep said 2500-stall; Colin has a 2000-stall, but Turbo recommended it to go with a particular set of ported heads). Definitely keep header primaries on the small side (1-1/2") until you're making enough power that they'd be a restriction.

import_convert, are there any particular cam grinds you've got your eye on?

[Grand Marquis GT]

I am running a Performance Products Power+Plus Intake for the EFI, it's a Performer RPM knockoff.

We have yet to see how it runs.

[import convert]

well for a 351 probably this one

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=LUN%2D510A2LUN&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=LUN%2D51013LUN&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=LUN%2D51023&autoview=sku

[Nathan in MI]

Keep in mind that that's a roller cam, and will require a roller 351 block ('94-'97) in order to work, or a roller conversion kit ($$$).

[import convert]

so id need a hydraulic flat tappet cam?

[Nathan in MI]

Depends on the block you get. If you get a roller 351, then you can use a roller cam. If not, you're stuck with flat tappet.

[import convert]

either way theyre hydraulic lifter blocks? i just want to make sure so i dont get the worng cam. most of the flat tappet cams im finding have a power band thats 2000-5500 or higher or are 2500- 5500+

[Nathan in MI]

Yes, they're all made for hydraulic lifters. And you can find flat tappet cams that start at 1000 rpm and go up from there...that's what mine is. It's a Comp Cams RV grind.

Also, don't know if anyone mentioned this yet or not, but try to find one that uses the 351 firing order (13726548). It's easier on main bearings than the 302 firing order is.

[1987cp]

Unless he wants to pay for the $480 link-bar-style roller lifters.

Pretty expensive tastes with those Lunatis, there ......

Plots with your Lunati grinds with stock GT40 heads for comparison. Also, plots with Crane 444231 and 444211, which are MUCH cheaper. Looks at a glance like these could all possibly work with a 2,000-stall converter.

Also, if the flat-tappets you're looking at all start at 2200-plus RPM, you're in the wrong section of the catalog. There are several such as Crane's 364211 that offer excellent low-end characteristics similar to the roller cams we're looking at here.