My Ma's 1986 Crown Victoria LX

[87gtVIC]

Yessir. Certainly a pain in the backside.

[packman]

Got a new laptop last Monday. I had some time to mess with it today and got the driver to work with the Quarterhorse. Had TunerPro running and setup. But I am still having electrical issues. I will post in my thread in the Tech section about this. One thing that I will not do or buy again is OEM Tools part# 27062; which is the oil pump primer tool. The end of the tool that goes into the drill chuck is rounded instead of a hex-shape. And since I am running counter-clockwise, it will loosen up and begin chewing the metal up on that end of the tool, and send metal shavings onto the engine. I ordered a Comp Cams oil pump priming tool with the hex end. Even if we figure out the electrical issue; I will not be priming the engine with the OEM primer tool; it will just have to wait until next weekend.

[packman]

Here are the priming tools that I have. The pic on the left is the OEM Tools Ford priming tool. You can see that the end going into the drill chuck is round. Which is a problem when your oil pump spins counter-clockwise. Despite catching it loosening up and repeatedly retightening the chuck; the tool still managed to ream itself out a bit. I only happened to notice after seeing small metal bits on the aluminum disc that goes over the distributor well opening. I hope none of that found its way into the oil pump cavity.

The pic on the right is the Comp Cams oil pump priming tool. You can barely see with my poorly shot pic, that the end that goes into the drill chuck is squared-off a bit. This should prevent the galling present on the other tool. very annoyed. So, if any of you are rebuilding your Windsors, don't get the OEM Tools primer; or at least make sure the tool you're getting is squared off.

[gadget73]

Got an old distributor laying around? Knock the gear off, stuff it down in the hole and spin it with a drill. One primer tool that fits perfect for very little money.

[packman]

Will a 5.0 distributor fit in a 351W? I still have the lopo dizzy.

Since I'm being held up with the electrical woes; I will get a good look at my trans linkage and see if I can weld in a U-shaped rod in place of that straight section that's hitting the header. If that will allow the column stick to move the trans lever; then I can keep the original shifter; which is what I would prefer.

[sly]

IIRC, no. The 351 is a little longer. The 302 one will be too short to engage properly. There's no parts overlap in the aftermarket parts lists on RockAuto either.

[packman]

Kinda figured that; already got the Comp Cams oil pump driver anyways. Just need a day when we have no major storms to contend with.

[packman]

I got a little time yesterday with the Crown Vic. I discovered that the repaired fusible link wasn't passing power. That one had the fusible link right behind the ring terminal fitting. I was able to work with the nub of wire going to it; but I may have broken the fuse when I crimped the terminal on. I got delayed by dinner, so I couldn't test the new fusible link. I have a meeting shortly, but right afterwards I am going out to test the other fusible links. Out of curiosity, what is the amperage of those fusible links, if anybody knows off hand. My EVTM ID's them, but gives no specs. Oh.......I have to ID that plug by my forefinger. It looks to be in rough shape. Ring terminal is very crusty. Of course I will be testing it, but if I have to repair it, I may replace it with one of the deutsch connectors that I got. I have to learn how to assemble them anyways.

[Tiggie]

Fusible links are usually identified by color. Here's a post with a chart: https://ratsun.net/topic/77764-shopp...fusible-links/

[packman]

Thank you Tiggie I will take a look at the color of the wires next time I mess with the CV.

I was testing wires and everything seems to have power. As I moved up towards the cabin, the test light started getting dimmer and dimmer. I put the charger on the battery and it was almost completely dead. My Dad said that it could be a crap battery; or I have a short circuit in the system. Hope it's the battery; as I have no experience finding shorted circuits. One would swear this car doesn't want to see the road again.

[packman]

I got a tiny bit of time with the CV yesterday evening whilst checking everything in the backyard. I forgot that I had the charger on the battery all weekend. I connected the battery cables and checked to see what other systems are working. The HVAC system works; the headlights and emergency flashers work (not the parking lights as I need to change the switch and plug out); and the horn works. So basically everything has power with the key on but the relays and starter solenoid. So I am going to switch out the ignition switch for starters (pun intended) and move down from there.

[packman]

I discovered a problem earlier this afternoon; which hopefully is THE problem. I got a Standard Products ignition lock cylinder and an ignition module from RockAuto figuring I would start with replacing those items. I pulled the lock cylinder out of the steering column and the electrical connector fell off of it in pieces. I'm hoping that is the problem; even though, the car was starting up just fine before I parked it. My problem now is when I went to install the replacement, it goes in partially and binds up before it goes in all the way. This is with the keyed part of the cylinder lock matched up with the keyed part of the steering column. I put the electrical connector back on the original cylinder and compared that to the Standard Products cylinder and noticed slight differences. I gave them to my Dad and with his machinist eyes, saw many small differences. So I am going to order another ignition lock cylinder from Autozone (they're still open) and hope that it might be a manufacturing defect. I will also look in LMR and see if the fox bodies use the same lock cylinder. The Crown Vic is fighting; but I will win........

[86VickyLX]

That wire on the lock cylinder is only for the chime to warn you that you left the key in the ignition with the door open. It serves no other purpose.

[sly]

The ignition switch that the lock cylinder moves is the actual electrical connection for all the stuff in the car.

This thing:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=386664&cc=1131691&pt=4700&jsn=933

They are known for literally falling apart.

[packman]

I got a new ignition module with the ignition lock cylinder. I have terminals and wire to fix the connector if the issue lies there. I noticed when I was packing up that the ignition module that is in there has 2 new-looking bolts fastening it in there. I wonder if it was replaced before we got the car. I know I didn't do that.