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HillbillySUV T5 Five Speed UPDATE 07/23/07 with pics.

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    HillbillySUV T5 Five Speed UPDATE 07/23/07 with pics.


    Ok so the pic stinks but here it is, the worlds (second?) only 89 Country Squire with a T5. Certainly Herk is the only one lifted and wearing truck tires. LOL!

    I have a confession to make, I couldn't wait. As soon as I got the shifter in and tied up all the loose ends, I just had to go for a spin. I have been wearing a huge grin ever since. What makes it worse is I don't even have the clutch pedal in it yet. Yep, just stick it in reverse and start it up. Shut it off and stick it in first, then ... well you get the idea. Evidently the synchros in this trans are in good shape, since it was smooth and easy to shift from 1st all the way up to 5th and back down without so much as a hint of grinding. All in all I put around 10 miles on it before calling it quits. I thought it would be awkward driving a stick in a panther, but evidently I got used to it pretty quick. As I was coming home I went to downshift and without thinking about it, my left foot automatically went in search of the clutch pedal. As you might have guessed, my wandering foot caught the edge of the brake pedal and locked up the rears for a second. I left a little bit of rubber on the road, but I didn't kill it. (note to self, trim the @#%#$% brake pedal!)

    All in all, aside from the physical effort involved in wrestling with the transmissions themselves, it was a pretty simple swap. Herk, already had the right driveshaft, and I didn't have to drill any holes for the cross member to line up, everything lined up perfectly.

    I can't wait to get the clutch pedal installed.

    Which brings me to the one minor hitch in the whole swap, my clutch cable doesn't fit right. There is a ball on the end of it that connects with the clutch fork. The ball is too small and slips right through the hole. I looked at the clutch fork closely and it isn’t a case of it being worn, the hole is just bigger. Having purchased the cable over a year ago, I doubt I can exchange it for the right one. That won't stop me from trying though.  In the mean time, does anyone know whether there is some sort of cupped washer or clip that is supposed to fit inside the clutch fork, that maybe I am missing?

    On a happier note, I thought that the stock mustang shifter would be way to low and forward. It is, but only slightly. It feels pretty natural when driving. I might just make is a couple inches taller, and bend it back towards me a few degrees. Then again, I'll keep my eyes open for a whole new shifter that I like better.

    I noted a big difference in pickup on my accelerometer. (aka, my posterior) I can't help but think this is only going to improve, once I swap the 3.08 gears, for 3.73's or 4.11's. I I want more of a stump puller than an interstate cruiser. Before anyone tells me what a mistake 4.11’s would be, try to remember I have been driving it for over a year with only 2 gears! 5.13's would still get me better mileage and speed than I have been getting! I don't mind if it is winding out a bit at 60 since 90% of the time I will be driving locally.
    On a side note, the transmission came from a turbo coupe, and has the lower first gear. The gear ratio in second is almost identical to first in an AOD, so it somewhat like having a bulldog gear. I can already tell that it is going to make trailer towing, a cinch.

    Last but not least, lets all show our respect for my dearly departed AOD with a moment of silence...........

    Here it lies leaking it’s last in a spreading pool of its own bodily fluids. Such a sad end for such a proud transmission…


    Ok, now that, that's out of the way, has anyone noticed that AOD is DOA backwards? Last but not least, anyone want a free AOD core?
    Owner of the only known 5 speed box wagon with a lift kit.
    AKA, Herkimer the Hillbilly SUV.



    Axle codes
    Open/Lock/Ratio #
    -----------------------
    G / H / 2.26
    B / C / 2.47
    8 / M / 2.73
    7 / - / 3.07
    Y / Z / 3.08
    4 / D / 3.42
    F / R / 3.45
    5 / E / 3.27
    6 / W / 3.73
    2 / K / 3.55
    A / - / 3.63
    J / - / 3.85

    #2
    excellent mang! you thought about a hydraulic clutch setup?

    1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
    2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
    1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
    1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
    2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
    1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

    please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

    Comment


      #3
      I have given it some thought, but I am not sure what to get the parts from.
      I could get some aftermarket setup, but I could buy a lot of cables for the cost.
      Owner of the only known 5 speed box wagon with a lift kit.
      AKA, Herkimer the Hillbilly SUV.



      Axle codes
      Open/Lock/Ratio #
      -----------------------
      G / H / 2.26
      B / C / 2.47
      8 / M / 2.73
      7 / - / 3.07
      Y / Z / 3.08
      4 / D / 3.42
      F / R / 3.45
      5 / E / 3.27
      6 / W / 3.73
      2 / K / 3.55
      A / - / 3.63
      J / - / 3.85

      Comment


        #4
        i wouldnt mind a t5 swap, but having bad knees doesnt exactly work. i am stuck with automatics unless i am having fun. i think its cool with the swap, but needs hydraulic clutch.
        Addicted to 86-87 Panthers

        Comment


          #5
          I used to work with a guy who had a BIG old two ton + farm truck with air brakes. He had bad knees and the clutch on that thing was brutal. One day he got the idea to use an air cylinder, to operate the clutch. Sure enough, he mounted a second "Hi-LO" switch on the shifter. (It already had one, for the two speed differential in it) Push in the switch, and the clutch would disengage. Pull on it and it would engage. All you had to do was control how fast the clutch was let out when starting out. He said it took a little getting used to, but other than taking off, all you had to do was use the switch. Not exactly practical solution for me though. LOL!
          Owner of the only known 5 speed box wagon with a lift kit.
          AKA, Herkimer the Hillbilly SUV.



          Axle codes
          Open/Lock/Ratio #
          -----------------------
          G / H / 2.26
          B / C / 2.47
          8 / M / 2.73
          7 / - / 3.07
          Y / Z / 3.08
          4 / D / 3.42
          F / R / 3.45
          5 / E / 3.27
          6 / W / 3.73
          2 / K / 3.55
          A / - / 3.63
          J / - / 3.85

          Comment


            #6
            Hope you got the correct pilot bearing for the 4cyl trans in the 5.0..

            Definately gotta see it next time I'm down in KY!
            Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

            Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

            Comment


              #7
              Yup got the right pilot bearing. I forgot to get a 4cyl clutch alignment tool though. DUH!
              Owner of the only known 5 speed box wagon with a lift kit.
              AKA, Herkimer the Hillbilly SUV.



              Axle codes
              Open/Lock/Ratio #
              -----------------------
              G / H / 2.26
              B / C / 2.47
              8 / M / 2.73
              7 / - / 3.07
              Y / Z / 3.08
              4 / D / 3.42
              F / R / 3.45
              5 / E / 3.27
              6 / W / 3.73
              2 / K / 3.55
              A / - / 3.63
              J / - / 3.85

              Comment

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