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    #16
    You got the right wheels for 98+ brakes, you should do it since you got the engine modded, and rear disks would help some too. Is your differential posi or open?
    88 Town Car (wrecked, for sale)
    Walker OEM duals with muffler deletes

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      #17
      Originally posted by 88Vic View Post
      You got the right wheels for 98+ brakes, you should do it since you got the engine modded, and rear disks would help some too. Is your differential posi or open?
      I really need to convert to big brakes and newer SLA IRS, but I read somewhere here that the frame would need to be clearanced. So far the pads on the car and large drums haul the car down well. I have not road raced or autocrossed it yet, however. When the pads and/or rotors are done for I'll probably go for it and research the other front end parts. I will probably go to 98+ front and keep the standard 11" rear drums. At the time the car has an open diff. and a 3:27 from a Town Car. This is after one worn out trac-lok and one exploded trac-lok (parts all over the road...damn sticky tires). The open diff seems to keep other things from grenading, but also means concentrating on keeping traction. I like the Auburn Pro, but may just get another Ford Trac-lok. Seems to be the best bang for the buck. Before another limited slip hits the rear end, new axles/ring and pinion/bearings/bearing support should be ready to go in at the same time. Just needs time and money, of which I am having a hard time having both at the same time lately.

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        #18
        That is one sweet ride man, and if you plan on tracking it, spend the money where it counts. Get a good limited slip. I just put my TrueTrac to the test, and no matter where I put the pedal down, I always had controlled power. Also, if you plan to track it, I'd suggest the rear disks. Not for more braking, but for better pedal feel.

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          #19
          Doesn't look like a POS to me,looks pretty nice.I wouldn't mind getting a slicktop P72 to make into my track car.

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            #20
            Originally posted by Blaze86Vic View Post
            That is one sweet ride man, and if you plan on tracking it, spend the money where it counts. Get a good limited slip. I just put my TrueTrac to the test, and no matter where I put the pedal down, I always had controlled power. Also, if you plan to track it, I'd suggest the rear disks. Not for more braking, but for better pedal feel.
            Is the TrueTrac a Torsen type diff? My road racing buddies swear by them. The rear disk swap would be great for pedal feel and most importantly easy pad swaps. I have never liked messing around with the drums. I think I would have some major issues if I were to take it to a track day sometime with cooling (trans, coolant,oil, etc) and oil starvation. When the car was on R-compound Kumho's (long story) a quick on/off ramp excursion would start to drop the oil pressure.

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              #21
              Yes it is a Torsion style diff. And if you road race, that is the top of the line. You get no better than that. Link to a pic of mine installed.

              You'll almost never replace the rear pads. And I'd suggest not getting race pads for them either. They won't get hot enough to break in properly.

              Always put an extra bit of oil in when you go road racing.
              Last edited by Blaze86Vic; 06-03-2007, 09:16 AM.

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                #22
                Almost makes me want to paint my car black....
                sigpicVic Videos Here http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...676#post243676
                Vic's Reader's Rides Page http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=16917
                Vic's Cardomain page http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2532949
                1975 Chevy C-10 Cardomain http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3371894

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