1993 F-150 Flare Side

[DerekTheGreat]

Alrighty, with the family vacation out of the way I can return my thoughts to this truck which doesn't want to run right. Question: How can I test each injector to see if it's working and working properly? I've seen videos of Eric over at South Main Auto where he's got a fancy tool which allows him to trigger each injector as he monitors fuel pressure and then compares notes against all of 'em. Guess I'd like to do something similar. How would you fellas go about it? Speaking of fuel pressure, I bought a gauge (Matco, used) and it won't connect to the fuel rail. Looks like it needs an adaptor. Gauge itself has a quick connect fitting (I'll get pics posted later) and so it looks like I need an adaptor. Is this the correct one?: Fuel Injection Pressure Tester Adapter F-o-r-d Adapter 305.32 Valve from Fuel | eBay

Matco supposedly makes an adaptor, but I don't think they make it any more. Part number 71313, if my eyes serve me correctly: FIT448_PartsBreakdown_01.pdf (matcotools.com)
Anybody have one?

[friskyfrankie]

I've had great success with ATS 505 Fuel Treatment. It is not cheap but has done wonders with dirty fuel injectors and all other fuel system parts (assuming the signal to the injectors is correct). Perhaps worth a shot before digging in to it and spending perhaps more money than necessary?

[gadget73]

Fords do use a smaller than most test port, same size as a tire valve. GM ones look more like an R12 AC fitting. those two things in the Matco kit look like they would sit between the fuel line and the rail, no idea why that would be needed unless its on some application without a test port. The rubber hose adapter would probably get it done though, assuming you have the fitting that GM stuff takes.


to manually operate the injectors I think you'd have to unplug them all and provide +12v and a path to ground maybe through a test light to limit current. This is batch fire so you couldn't just turn the key on and ground each injector by sticking a pin into the back of the plug and grounding it that way. If you tried that it would open 4 at once.

[DerekTheGreat]

Hmm, this thing doesn't run well enough to try fuel injector cleaner. It's got me pondering if the injectors are firing in the right order or fully contributing. Here's what's in my test kit: Well, I can't upload pictures since the damn site doesn't want to display correctly. How do I fix that?

Edit: Site is displaying normally. I'll take advantage of that and upload pics:

Wondering if you guys would know what I'd need to buy to get this kit to work with Ford's fuel rail. Also, when I prime the fuel system, how long will it hold pressure?

[DerekTheGreat]

..Bueller? Bueller?

Could anyone at least show me what I need to buy to get my Matco kit to work with Ford's fuel rail? I'd really like to check the pressure and not feel like I wasted ~$70 on this thing.

[sly]

If none of those fittings thread onto the fuel rail schrader... then you'll probably need to get a 1/16 to 1/8 npt adapter IIRC. The problem with this is you'll have to remove the schrader valve to get it to work unless you can find one specifically designed to work with valves. It looks like your tool would need to remove the quick connect from the hose T to then thread into an adapter that would then thread onto the one on the fuel rail after removing the schrader valve to allow fuel to run to the gauge.

I have the HF tester and it has the adapter in it. https://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-i...ter-58760.html

[gadget73]

I'm reasonably sure those hoses you linked will get it done if you have a connection that can attach to a GM fuel rail. My set has slightly different connectors.

[DerekTheGreat]

UPDATE:

- Lots of work done to the truck, but pertaining to the running issue:
1) Original ECM (Z2D1) put back in truck.
2) Engine started with correct vacuum loom in place and relocated PCV hose. Runs slightly better, still acts like it has a partial misfire between 900 & 1,700 rpm. IAC valve appears to be working again.
3) Fuel pressure checked key on, engine off: Gauge quickly rose to 50psI and then bled down to ~31psi after about ten seconds. I cycled the key to off, then back to on and the gauge held constant at 50psi. Could this be indicative of a leaky injector?

Fuel injector test kit inbound.

In other news, a 5.8 throttle body's throttle openings are just a wee bit larger than a 5.0's. So while a 5.0 TB will fit on a 5.8, it's not right for the application.

[DerekTheGreat]

UPDATE:

Upper intake pulled, the injectors and their wiring were checked, all seem to be ok:

Short pulse, low power || Short pulse, high power
Inj. #1: 3.0psi || 4.5psi
Inj. #2: 2.0 || 4.5
Inj. #3: 2.0 || 3.0
Inj. #4: 2,0 || 5.0
Inj. #5: 2.0 || 5.0
Inj. #6: 2.0 || 5.0
Inj. #7: 2.0 || 5.0
Inj. #8: 2.0 || 4.5

Injector # corresponds with cylinder #. Fuel system was primed to 50psi before each injector was tested, the number recorded being the pressure drop after each respective test. I've never tested injectors before, but the numbers look OK to me, what say you guys? Perhaps injector 3 is a bit suspect during the short pulse, high power test, as it only dropped 3psi vs the other injectors which dropped by 4.5 - 5.0psi.

Two other notable things:
1) A considerable amount of oil dripped out of the upper intake, specifically from cylinder #8's runner..
2) The upper intake gasket, someone used a 5.0 gasket. I didn't know that was possible, but I'm confident it wasn't sealing 100%:


Could someone decode this part number? I'm specifically interested in the date:


I haven't buttoned the engine back up as I'm awaiting your guys' feedback on the injectors..

[friskyfrankie]

Are these castings not within 2 weeks or so of the build date? More knowledgeable folks can comment on this......

[gadget73]

F0TE is 1990 truck engine. can't really tell you any more since I don't have a master parts manual for trucks. The base part number is going to be the same for all upper intakes, its the -AA that will be the only clue what specific thing its for. Its not a date code, just the engineering number meaning it was last revised in 1990, but could be produced years later if nothing changed. Our cars are loaded with D9 and E0 (1979, 1980) parts despite being made well after that.

[DerekTheGreat]

Thank you, sir. Someone else on the truck forum told me you can't date parts by their numbers, but based on threads I've read on here, I doubted that. So probably1990 then? It's got the old nipple for the PCV system which supposedly ends up pulling all the oil and oil vapor in cylinder #8 and potentially cracking the piston. True statement? When did that nipple go away? That might help narrow down the year of the engine.

More important than that though (or so I think..) are the results of the fuel injector test. Do they mean anything to you guys? Should I replace any or all of the injectors? Does anyone have the PCV grommet and hose which are specific to these trucks? I very much want & need.

[Tiggie]

Googling is telling me 94+ was revised for the PCV location, no physical change in the intake (still the F0TE-AA).

That number three injector is looking suspect. Would be nice if it was volume instead of PSI.

[DerekTheGreat]

Hmm, couldn't we figure out how much fuel that is if we know the flow rate of the injectors? The cheap injector tester I used has a break down of the modes I used, duration and pulse width. Maybe I should do what Frankie suggested by running fuel infector cleaner through it? For all I know it was running rough because of that 302 gasket. Can't say I've ever seen a vacuum leak make and engine run rough like a partial misfire, have you?

Speaking of injectors, would these work?: 8X Upgrade Fuel Injectors For Ford F150 F250 F350 4.6L 5.0L 5.4L 5.8L 0280150718 | eBay
Looking like the ticket given the cheap price. Rock Auto wants ~$50 for ONE Standard Motor Products injector. I also confirmed that the PCV system for '93 and down is responsible for dead #8.

[gadget73]

if you could have the injector fire into something that directly measures it, that would be easier. Would also let you see the spray pattern to see if its f'd or not. I realize thats easier said than done.

If those injectors are genuine Bosch and yours needs that part number it should be ok. By color its a 19# which I think the trucks do use. There are also listings for rebuilt/flow-tested sets for 50 bucks. I had a set of those in something and they worked fine but I couldn't tell you who I got them from. Someone on ebay that was rebuilding and testing them. I think the current set in the Towncar is also from one of those, but one was DOA and I had to get a replacement. Luckily I put it on #5, the easiest injector to change on a Panther and probably the only one you can do without removing the upper intake.