1993 F-150 Flare Side

[sly]

+1 try to match up model year. And yeah... 93 was still batch fire. PITA to get to pass emissions. Clean the EGR tube and valve. Also, had to replace the cat on the 93 I had, but it ran fine before that after getting the EGR system working right (I had to replace the valve on mine), just wouldn't pass emissions without the cat.

[gadget73]

Mine is the black craftsman but I think its the same otherwise

pull the ECM and look for the program code on it. usually a 3 or 4 character combo on the label with the part numbers and all that.

http://www.grandmarq.net/oldfuelinjection/page17.html

There is an ECM hardware update around 88-89 that added live data capability to some of them. I don't think boxes ever got it but some applications are capable of giving data output to the right sort of computer. If yours won't talk to it you probably have to use one of the older dumb testers or jumper the thing and count the blinky light

http://www.grandmarq.net/oldfuelinjection/page13.html

yeah I'm being lazy and linking to that. OFI was a great site and I'm glad I was able to find a mirror of it when it vanished. We also have a mirror of the old p71interceptor site for the same reasons.

[DerekTheGreat]

On the timing marks:
I couldn't see them on my 91 MGM while playing with it recently. I figured I'd hit the balancer with sandpaper while the engine was idling, and was surprised when the marks never appeared.

It took a wire brush by hand to make them pop out, because they were full of the same mixture of surface rust and road dirt that covered the rest of it.

You didn't end up with busted up fingers from that keyway in the balancer? I don't know why I'm being such a chickenshit about it..

+1 try to match up model year. And yeah... 93 was still batch fire. PITA to get to pass emissions. Clean the EGR tube and valve. Also, had to replace the cat on the 93 I had, but it ran fine before that after getting the EGR system working right (I had to replace the valve on mine), just wouldn't pass emissions without the cat.

Itching to investigate EGR things. While Angela and I were swapping ignitions stuffs I was glad I pulled the vacuum hoses from another truck while we were at the yard. This truck's seems to be rather hacked and wrong. Can't see the stuff under the upper intake though, hope those are right.....

Mine is the black craftsman but I think its the same otherwise

pull the ECM and look for the program code on it. usually a 3 or 4 character combo on the label with the part numbers and all that.

There is an ECM hardware update around 88-89 that added live data capability to some of them. I don't think boxes ever got it but some applications are capable of giving data output to the right sort of computer. If yours won't talk to it you probably have to use one of the older dumb testers or jumper the thing and count the blinky light


yeah I'm being lazy and linking to that. OFI was a great site and I'm glad I was able to find a mirror of it when it vanished. We also have a mirror of the old p71interceptor site for the same reasons.

Yes! This is exactly what I was hoping to find! Thank you! "Give a man an fish, and he'll eat for a day. Teach him how to fish, and he'll eat everyday." Or something like that. Yah, so while a direct answer would've been appreciated, now I can look this stuff up on the McFly. Strange that the $50 ECM I'm eyeballing isn't listed. Can't find "KID1" within the list. (While not in the list, I found info for it here: 94 KID1 EEC in 93 truck - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums (ford-trucks.com) - Reportedly from a 1994 4x4 Bronco, 351, E4OD. Issue with that would be black ICM vs gray, so KID1 is a no-go.)

From the list, I've deduced I could use AOC2, BAN1, C2S2, C9S1, EOD, JAG2, S0M and X2Z2. (5.8 w/ E4OD) Which would be the ideal choice though? Is there any way to figure out what the differences are between them?

More edits:

From what I've gathered on eBay:

-C9S1: 1990 Ford F-250. Possibly California emissions, as the seller is out of Commifornia.
-S0M: 1990 or '91 E-Series van. Also 1990 F-250.
-X2Z2: 1992 F-150, possibly.

[kishy]

You didn't end up with busted up fingers from that keyway in the balancer? I don't know why I'm being such a chickenshit about it..

For clarity:
While wearing gloves similar to the rubber-armoured Mechanix gloves, I used sandpaper on the balancer while idling, from below, applying minimal pressure.
When that didn't work, I shut the engine off, and rotated it by hand until I found where the marks were very faintly hiding, then used a wire brush with the engine still off to clean out the marks.

No busted up fingers but I was certainly mindful of the hazard.

[DerekTheGreat]

Got it. I've got a brush, so I'll try and apply Vic's method and then brush the balancer if that doesn't help.

None of the gurus have any advice here?:
"
From the list, I've deduced I could use AOC2, BAN1, C2S2, C9S1, EOD, JAG2, S0M and X2Z2. (5.8 w/ E4OD) Which would be the ideal choice though? Is there any way to figure out what the differences are between them?

More edits:

From what I've gathered on eBay:

-C9S1: 1990 Ford F-250. Possibly California emissions, as the seller is out of Commifornia.
-S0M: 1990 or '91 E-Series van. Also 1990 F-250.
-X2Z2: 1992 F-150, possibly.
"

Is there a way to determine what year a given ECM is? There's lots of codes on 'em, I'm not sure what to make of anything other than the three to four digit identifier. I've got a service manual, electrical and general. But so far those are just about useless to me- couldn't even find an illustration of how to route the plug wires.

[Arquemann]

Are you gonna make an RR thread for the truuugh? Because I want pics!

[gadget73]

no clue on the ECM preference thing honestly. Maybe some of the truck guys have thoughts on it but I've never found a whole lot of detail on what makes this program code different from that program code unless its basic stuff like engine size, trans type, etc. Even the special specifications manual that gives all the calibration codes and related equipment part numbers doesn't get into it very much. You just get a list that says for this code you get this ECM, that EGR, etc. I have one of those for 1991, not sure if its got trucks in it or not or if that data will tell you much thats useful.


You can take some guesses about the date on the ECM by the full part number but its just going to be a "not earlier than" sort of thing. The ECM in my 91 Mark VII has an E9 part number on it for example .

[DerekTheGreat]

Are you gonna make an RR thread for the truuugh? Because I want pics!

Hrmm.. Could this thread double as my RR thread? Title is the truck, so why not? Yeah, lets make it double as the RR thread. Because once this BS is over and it runs right, it'll just be progress pics. Speaking of pics, here's the only two I have of it which aren't to help me figure WTF something is or where it [actually] goes:



1st photo is about three minutes or so down the from where we bought it. We stopped for grub, contemplated poor life choices involving old vehicles and hedged bets as to whether or not the truck would make it home without incident.
2nd photo is when we got it home, under it's own power and without incident. Should've bet something, opportunity missed right there. It hasn't moved since we parked it there about a month ago.

no clue on the ECM preference thing honestly. Maybe some of the truck guys have thoughts on it but I've never found a whole lot of detail on what makes this program code different from that program code unless its basic stuff like engine size, trans type, etc. Even the special specifications manual that gives all the calibration codes and related equipment part numbers doesn't get into it very much. You just get a list that says for this code you get this ECM, that EGR, etc. I have one of those for 1991, not sure if its got trucks in it or not or if that data will tell you much thats useful.


You can take some guesses about the date on the ECM by the full part number but its just going to be a "not earlier than" sort of thing. The ECM in my 91 Mark VII has an E9 part number on it for example .

Argh, another site. Which one would you recommend? Was thinking perhaps I should branch out, seeing as this is getting to be about as involved as I suspected it would be. And yet, I'm rather excited to make it right or right enough to drive reliably.

I forgot I've got some sort of Ford bible from 1988. Probably too old to be of use, but perhaps it's got numbers & definitions similar to what you've mentioned. From what I have gathered, you want a calibration code on your ECM that matches what's on the door jamb. I'm SOL on that, given I have no idea about the 5.8's donor. I also think I'm making too much of it. Would like to find a "X2Z2" or "S0M" ECM's and give either a shot.

[sly]

87-93 are pretty much the same mechanically. 94 was the next mechanical update before 96 OBDII updates. I think 94 was the SEFI update vs batch fire IIRC.

[DerekTheGreat]

...Could this thread double as my RR thread? Title is the truck, so why not?... ...Would like to find a "X2Z2" or "S0M" ECM's and give either a shot...

I just realized there is a reader's ride area. Could a mod move this thread there and retitle this thread as, "Derek & Angela's 1993 F-150 FlareSide"?
Found an X2Z2 and bought it, along with a fuel pressure gauge. Hopefully this stuff shows up by Friday.

87-93 are pretty much the same mechanically. 94 was the next mechanical update before 96 OBDII updates. I think 94 was the SEFI update vs batch fire IIRC.

Ah, great information. Thank you. I always wondered if the trucks got SEFI or were always batch.

Lastly, is there a good Ford truck forum people here use and recommend? Might be worth creating an account over on one of 'em.

[sly]

ford-trucks.com and f150.com I think were to two told to me that had decent tech, but you have to sift a bit due to the trolls. F150.com has a better reputation as of 2017... but that may have changed. As with all things internet related, YMMV.

[DerekTheGreat]

Yesterday Angie and I enjoyed some Dewar's Scotch. She had the brilliant idea to suggest she drive the truck. When she looks at me all wildly & smiles as she does it's near impossible for me to say "no." So my intoxicated ass fumbled with the fan shroud to get it back on. A thing I said would stay off until we swapped the power steering pump bracket. It fired right up and Angie proceeded to chitty-chitty bang-bang around the neighborhood. Seems to shift normally 2-3. Exhaust manifold leak is horrible, but she was ecstatic, her first time behind the wheel of it:

[DerekTheGreat]

Found an X2Z2 and bought it, along with a fuel pressure gauge. Hopefully this stuff shows up by Friday..

Welp, stuff showed up and I went to town on it Sunday. Being that I assumed the ECM was stock, I answered the prompts from my MT2500 as such. Codes I got were:

- 121: Throttle Position Sensor out of range.
- 332: EGR not opening, EVP voltage didn't change.
- 628: Excessive Converter Clutch Slippage.
- 634: Manual lever position out of range.

Fortunately, I was able to read data from the ECM and saw that the TPS was reporting 1.88V at idle. So with the way these things are, you have to remove the throttle body to get to it. Before I did that, I pulled the ECM. I've had bigger pains in my ass. Fortunately, the truck is clean enough such that fasteners (The ones that were left) came free without an issue. ECM gasket has been leaking, so the the ECM was stuck in there. It finally came loose and to my surprise it is a "Z2D1." That database reports this as:
"

Z2D1

5.8

Bronco, F-x50 E-x50

SD-Bank

and reports the ECM I bought as:

X2Z2

5.8

Bronco, F-x50 E-x50

SD-Bank / E4OD

"
With the Z2D1, there's no mention of E4OD, but it's clearly not the original to the truck. And much to my dismay, it's for a 5.8. So the good ole boys that swapped the thing in did change out the ECM afterall. Hmmmm. "Oh well! I bought this other ECM (X2Z2) so let me swap that in anyway!": (Existing ECM on left, "new" on right) More on this later.


While swapping the ECM's I noticed this truck has a black TFI module in it. "Oh great, this is a thing that should not be, right?" I dunno, texted VCV and it is application dependent, IE related to the computer used. Welp, I've got no way to date code the damn things but read somewhere that ~94 and up gets the black as the ECM does all the dwell magic and ~93 and down get the gray module. If the computer doesn't like the ICM, it'll spit code 212 at me and run worse, maybe. OK, my TFI wrench thing is gone, so fortunatley in my parts stash I had a gray TFI MotorCrap module already on a fender mount thing. Swapped that trash right in place of the black aftermarket unit. I then revisited the harmonic balancer. With full sunlight, I was actually able to discern timing marks, yay. I took Kishy's advice and wire brushed the lines, that helped bring them out quite a bit. Marked them for use later and then went on to the throttle body. Found someone had stabbed a 5.0 TB on it. What Angela and I read was that they weren't interchangeable.. Before I went bolting on our 5.8 TB that I pulled from a treasure yard, Angela cleaned it up all nice and then I tested the TPS to verify it was good. Yep, 0.98V with no throttle input. Yay! I bolt it up, get everything reconnected, replace all the vacuum & coolant lines going to the thing (5.8 TB's have two small ports on one end that appear to be for EVAP in addition the larger one that the 5.0 also has on the opposite end.) So we fire that prick up and it starts belching coolant from some place. Great. Pull the TB back off and found there are two core plugs in it, one was punched out by some ass monkey at the yard or somewhere down the road. How I didn't notice this when pulling the thing from the yard is beyond me. Then again, I have no experience with EFI 5.8's and practically none with truck 5.0's. So the 5.0 TB got reused, although I couldn't get the TPS to play nicely with it- 1.25V is the best I could do. Not sure what the range is supposed to be either. I've got all these damn service manuals and yet they do me NO FUCKIN' GOOD! I get in a hurry, want information, ten minutes of digging later and I'm on the internet anyway. Goddamn service manuals Ford made are written like a puzzle. Maybe one day I'll be able to use one for it's intended purpose. I realize it's operator error, but damn, would be nice if they had an appendix which stated the ranges for the possible combinations offered. The index/TOC isn't written that way though.

So I throw all that garbage back together, no leaks, fender liner tightened up, everything good to go. Fired it up, got it to operating temp and reset the timing. Whoo boy I had that way off, but it's at 10 or 11* BTC (couldn't find where the spec is in the manual [go figure..] and so that's where I put it. Still runs like shit, but it runs. Perhaps a little smoother now. New issue that I need to deal with (Not exactly new, but now it's in the spotlight) is the IAC valve. It doesn't seem like the computer is controlling it. My MT2500 shows "stupid" numbers around 50%. They change from time to time, but with no change in engine RPM. Unlike with the TPS, if I unplug it, I immediately see that the voltage drops to 0. If I unplug the IAC, no change in it's number. I swapped three of 'em on, no change. Before I drove the truck home, I had to unplug the IAC because it acted like it was inverted- just made the idle super high (Above 1,500rpm) and would drop to about 900 when unplugged. Guess I pissed something off doing that? What should I check?

Took it for a test drive. Cue the wom-wah-wahhh music or whatever. Engine still runs like shit and kindy choppy, yet it feels like it's got some bawls now, but when dropped in D, it's as if it's starting in 2nd or 3rd. The OD Lockout button on the shifter no longer responds (Theres a light in there which would come on with the old ECM when activated) I can get P, R, N, 2 and 1 manually. Check engine light came on while driving, which is what I wanted so I can check codes later today and see what differences there are. But I have a feeling this X2Z2 ECM I stuffed in it isn't right either, despite that damn database telling me it was. Gotta love inaccurate shit. Because meanwhile, an ECM code I ignored (Z2D1) as it has no mention of the E4OD seems to play nicer with said E4OD and as a result, I'll be stuffing that back in there.

Side spaghetti to keep in mind for later: I also noticed the vacuum line routing has to be dead wrong. I pulled vacuum lines from a big ole stake truck equipped with a 5.8, but I found there are differences which won't allow it to plug & play with the existing shit on this truck. So back to the yard for a F150 with good vacuum stuffs and this time if I have to, I'll pull the upper intake to get all of it and the little electrical things they plug into. If my 5.0 TB is any indicator, I'm betting our truck has some bumfuck combo of 5.0/5.8 shit going on which is preventing it from being all the Ford it can be.

Going to break down and join the FordTrucks forum.

[gadget73]

If the TPS is out of range it won't control idle correctly, and 1.25v is probably out of that range. I want to say about 1.2 is max. It will give a code if its pissy about it though.

maybe replace the plugs in the 5.8 throttle body and/or lose the coolant connection. Need to seal up the possible vac leak either way though.

if you're still getting the manual lever out of range, thats the position sensor on the side of the trans. I don't know the fine points of it on an E4OD but the AODE anf 4R7W use one too. Those have a slotted mounting hole to allow for adjustment. They also have an arrow on the part that moves with the trans and on the body and in some gear when its lined up properly those arrows align. Maybe have a look at that. Also possible the MLPS is just bad.

[sly]

yeah... according to the OFI site http://grandmarq.net/oldfuelinjection/page30.html
0.6 to 1.0 is supposed to be idle (closed) position. 1.25 will definitely be better than 1.88, but yeah... it still may not be happy.