rubber hose and clamps only if the hose is a dink smaller ID than the line OD and you put a flare on it to give the clamp some bite. I still wouldn't wanna do that with fuel line though. I think I would prefer some of those push locks just for peace of mind. Since you're dealing with low pressures, some nylon fuel line should do fine... but if you wanna go all in on never gonna need to replace it... nicopp and forget about it.
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Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes. -
I'd prefer metal from carb to carb, and a short flex line from there to the reg on the firewall. Something roughly like you'd see on a dual feed Holley, just adapted for these carbs. Not a big fan of rubber line under the hood.
connections at the carbs would depend on what its got, if it has barbs, just very short lengths of hose to couple to the steel feeder would do it. At the tee I'd probably do double flares.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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Never screwed with 2 carbs on a car or truck before so I appreciate the input.All FORD All The TimeComment
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its less dual carbs and more that rubber line can age and split. I think back on the fuel system on the Beetle with it's dual carbs and its amazing that thing didn't catch on fire. Every inch of it was just cheap rubber line from the firewall to the carbs. Hose in to the fuel pump, out to one of those cheapo plastic fuel filters, from there to a plastic tee, and hoses run right across the top of the block and cylinders out to the carbs on either side. Those engines run pretty hot and nothing was secured at all.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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The VWs embarrassed a LOT of muscle car guys.
The more I look at this, the more I think I want to do metal lines of some sort. The NiCopp of course would be easier to work with than steel, but aluminum kinda catches my eye too. I've got to do some creative tubing bending in the coolant lines running from the pump into and out of this intake and back into the heater core supply, so aluminum might be slick there too.
The more I'm learning about this engine and its needs, the more interesting this dinosaur technology becomes.
A picture of a detailed engine here for example of the cooling lines. Definitely not what I'm after but it is neat.Last edited by clutch47; 02-02-2024, 11:58 AM.All FORD All The TimeComment
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Mine sure wouldn't. A friend had a K car his grandma gave him. I could get him to about 20 but it was all over after first gear.
Just make sure you support the line so it can't just vibrate excessively in space. It can eventually work harden enough that it gets brittle and cracks off.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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Met a guy while I was in Uncle Sam's Canoe club that had a very worked on bug, and he could drive it.
Made a believer outta me, especially light to light racing.All FORD All The TimeComment
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Off with the old (3 bolt flat flange)
on with the new (V-Bands from Summit)
I've had enough headers with 3 bolt flanges refuse to stay sealed over the years that I thought I'd try something new. Never screwed with V-Bands before and I've gotta say.. so far I'm impressed.
All FORD All The TimeComment
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Nothing redeeming about those 3 bolt flanges. The gaskets always blow out because the flanges bend and let things move. V bands should stay put a lot better.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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My thoughts exactly.All FORD All The TimeComment
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Ready for ceramic coat next week.All FORD All The TimeComment
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Ceramic coating done. I'm happy with how these are turning out.
Saturday is engine and transmission out day.
My plans have moved forward a bit. Engine is getting a thorough cleaning and regasket with the original pistons and rings left in place unless the deep inspection tells me to do something else.
Oil passage chamfers and a new oil pump, along with a full tour of a cast iron inline 6 head.
my back hurts thinking about that.
I've got the 'extra' '89 case AOD that I picked up last year completely rebuilt and ready to go. Lokar selector lever, and I'm stopped. Need to find the cable mount brackets on the trans and the intake as well as the TV lever at the trans. Pix of what I need attached.
Dan at Silverfox built me another SPT-R valve body and tweaked it toward this lower rpm style power and to work with the Hughes 2K stall converter and the cam kit I got from Clifford.
All FORD All The TimeComment
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How it started...
how it ended.
Now the fun begins.All FORD All The TimeComment
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Rolled it outside for a good cleaning. A thorough spray of every surface with old reliable WD-40, an overnight 'soak' with a little bit this morning, then the pressure washer applied gently. After that I'll be making the wiring happy again with some needed attention and dielectric grease on every connection and in every plug.
I'll take the radiator to the local shop today and let Scott do his magic. It'll come back better than new.
Engine goes under the knife next week. Still can't decide on whether I'm going to bore it to 4.050 and put in some 390 pistons with a mild deck slice to bring it to 9.5:1, or find some 240 rods and use a set of 6 leftover KB hyper 347 pistons I have. The end goal is getting the original 1983 cast pistons out so they won't break if I want to run it past 5K rpms. All 240/300 rods are forged so a simple bolt change and I'm golden.
All FORD All The TimeComment
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