My 1994 GM LS

[massacre]

There is a rubber vacuum "tee" that i remember was split on my car. It's on the rear driver's side. PITA to get to.

[friskyfrankie]

There is a rubber vacuum "tee" that i remember was split on my car. It's on the rear driver's side. PITA to get to.

Talking about the PCV line "T"? Yes, that part and the line tend to break down over time. The "T" is real cheap and Dorman makes one for about $6. Right that it can be a PITA depending upon the line's shape

[sly]

If the engine coolant temp sensor is buggered, it'll do stupid crap like that. Same with the air intake temp sensor. Sometimes they fail in a static state instead of open or short to trigger a code, so checking the resistance of the sensors when cold and then after warmed up to see if they are within spec at both states is a good way to check them.

ECT: https://grandmarq.net/oldfuelinjection/page28.html
ACT: https://grandmarq.net/oldfuelinjection/page29.html

Don't mind any differences in connectors, they work the same. They are not polarized either. Just check resistance and compare to the charts/graphs. Should be somewhere +/- 15%.

[Grand1]

Changing PCV, I just cap the top valve? What I do with the unconnected line?

[friskyfrankie]

Doesn't the '94 only have two lines going into the PCV? How did you get 3? Is from somewhere else?

[Grand1]

I have two lines, but the Motorcraft PVC instructions tells me to cap the tip of the " F " tube. It's capped, that's not a line. Confusing as hell. So I have a line not attached, as you see there.

[VicCrownVic]

Hook both lines up, don't use the cap. I assume the original had both hooked up?

[sly]

the instructions say to use the cap IF the original was only one port elbow. Since yours uses both, hook up both.

[friskyfrankie]

Previous advice is correct - use both original lines in the same order they came out. The reason for the "cap directions" is because the valve is used in various applications and sometimes with only one line so one port (on the valve itself) needs to be capped. Don't make yourself crazy - do what was mentioned here and you're all set!

[Grand1]

Done.
Fords fortune cookie message threw me for a loop.

Throwing in the new coils and MAF. From what I have read, the EGR system usually needs a good cleaning as well.

[Grand1]

Intermittent check engine light is gone with new MAF. Once in awhile get a rough idle (did this since purchase), no vaccum leaks as far as I can tell. Moving on to cosmetic. New headlamps and lights up front, got rid of the mosilquito visor.

On to trim, I have rolls of it....straightened out as best I could under blocks...seeking advice:

1. Trim does have some raised areas/bends and is not completely flat for mounting, will a heat gun take care of this during application?

2. Trim has adhesive under some red tape, dont know if this will suffice and wondering if anyone has used any additional type of adhesive.

3. General tips of the tade

[sly]

Since the stuff is plastic coated, excess heat may damage it if you're not careful. If your stuff isn't coated and just bare metal, no issues. It is probably better to just use a mallet and tappy tap tap until it fits.

[Grand1]

Have you ever scored a front grille or interchanged something else.? Slim pick ins when it comes to grille availability.

[sly]

Nope. I just put one from a harvest gold car on my car to keep the headlights stable. The only white aero with bumpers that look any good shown on Row52.com was out in Cali. Yeah... nah. I guess I'll just keep running my old cracking bumpers. Don't feel like running red or blue bumpers on this.

[FordMan77]

Have you checked car-part.com? I can usually find what I need there most of the time.