Simple question here, is there anyway to save or rebuild my clearcoat? I can tell it has broken down more over the past year looking over the hood when I drive around. Will a good wax job keep me from losing anymore?
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-Matt
1968 Fairlane 500 - 1998 Camaro Z/28
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i think that once it starts to break down you are outta luck. it will peel and such. i would hit the areas where it is starting w/ a fine grit sandpaper, and take it to get cleared
Addicted to 86-87 Panthers -
is the clear actually peeling or does it have acid rain damage?..........if it the second, you can wet sand with 1000 grit paper and buff it with compound
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
please be patient, rebuilding an empire!
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I'd try detailing clay first: www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-clay.html My paint on the hood, roof and trunk is BURNT so Im going w/ high grit wetsand paper in prep for RACING STRIPES (cheaper than paint, easy to do).
1991 Crown Victoria LTD, Puff the Magik DragonComment
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makes me wonder if I should try the clay bar to get the imperfections out of my paint maybe improve my failure at touch up LOL.http://dreadfullydespized.net
This is a sig-nature.Comment
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