Rear Quarterpanel removal

[BigMikeIT]

Hi,

Is this done by drilling out the weld points, and the what on the c-pillar, grind it out?

Wondering if the seam is all the way near the roof weld point.

Have a wheel well smoosh back from college that I’d like to remove, but not much access from rear seat with wall card removed, even with a hook. Smoosh is on small ridge of wheel well flange pushed in a bit. Figuring I would need to separate the wheel well and quarter panel.

Tack welder won’t work alone.

Thinking about building up garage: compactish english wheel, various spoons, shot bags and teardrop mallets.




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[87gtVIC]

Id maybe consult a body shop before you get into something you cannot handle. I am not trying to discourage. It would be amazing to do this by yourself. I just don't want you to get in over your head.


You will have to remove 1/4 window and rear window and associated trim.

You will have to remove taillight and extension panel for taillight.

EDIT: Will have to remove rear bumper

Lower trims including rocker panel trim (not entirely sure about the rocker panel area) will have to be removed.

Vinyl top and any top trim will have to be removed to gain access to the seam that is located about 2 inches from the top of the roof.

Spot welds will have to be drilled out from door jamb, rocker, wheel well, 1/4 window, taillight area, trunk area and rear window area.

C pillar is spot welded as well at the seam mentioned above if my memory is correct.



That is how large the seam area is.

Definitely spot welded in

[BigMikeIT]

Rear Quarterpanel removal

About 10 years ago, I was told 800.
No rust there, just pushed in a bit.

I may try the tack welder and work it out a bit. May even need to lay carbon on / anneal with a torch.

I’ll doing the painting myself anyway. The vinyl elk top is shot.

—
(aside) Found out the anodized trim can be dipped with chrome.


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[Tiggie]

Can you post a picture of the area affected?

[BigMikeIT]

The first two are the smoosh - pressed in flange.
Feeling the flat part of the trim where it is screwed into the quarter panel opening, there is a ridge.
Feeling on the inside part of the wheel well, the pressed in dent can be felt on the inside.....so that void between the well and the body form is sandwiched together.

Imo, the correct way is to regain the form of the body panel rather than do a sloppy bond fill.
The metal is bent on the inside and outside.







The third pic is a bonus. Landscaper backed-up the handle of the lawnmower handle bar into the car door.
Nice nifty spot for a ding.




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[Tiggie]

I think I’d give that a go with the slide hammer. Weld on studs are better if you have a MIG: https://www.eastwood.com/mig-stud-we...SABEgK4nPD_BwE

Go little by little. A little body filler will finish the job nicely and isn’t the most evil thing in the world when used correctly.

Installing an entire quarter panel is a huge pain. Getting the rear window, trunk lid edge, and door jamb to line up is a tough task for the most experienced body man. Then all the welds are rust waiting to happen since you can’t get into the seams and back sides. Finding and shipping one would be a a task to overcome as well.

[Mr Bean]

That looks like something that a paintless dent repair place should be able to pull out in an afternoon.

[WagonMan]

You need to watch some U-tube videos! Search "small dent repair". Get yourself a nice straight wheel opening molding to use as a guide. WagonMan

[BigMikeIT]

I might do what I learned from a fabricator a while back, and draw a quick stencil (piece of wood that its edge is the body form) since the other LH side is fine.

Down the road, I have a goal to fabricate a car. Metal work comes easy to me.


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