Does anyone have any experience with the OEM Ford striker plates/bushings? I know I've read on here that the Dorman replacements have thicker bushings that lead to difficulty in opening the doors. Do the OEM Ford pieces work any better?
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I have the dorman ones on my cars. They work fine. Just line stuff up right.
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.
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I've usually been fine with the Dorman ones, but the Continental got a little sticky with them. I got it worked out by flushing the latches out with penetrating oil and then re-greasing them with spray lithium.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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I was careful to line up the new ones exactly where the originals were. All but the driver's door at difficult to open. I'll give the cleaning and lithium a shot.—John
1985 Ford F-150 XLT Lariat
1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017 & May 2019 - gone, but not forgotten)
1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)
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I had that same problem with at least one of my doors. It eventually worked itself out.
Cleaning and re-lubing would probably sort it out faster.
In my case getting the strikers exactly where they were before install was not a good idea since they had been messed with before and were not quite right.
Early in the life of The Scab the original owner got into some sort of accident that required replacing both passenger doors (these doors also rattled and latched poorly when I got the car). The paint job may have been done by a dealer body shop as it looks original until you see the white interior of these doors.
Anyway, the bushings I used were recommended by someone on here (GM_Guy or Mianemantom, not sure sorry), Auveco A18914.
No more rattly doors and my wife is no longer scared of falling out, lol. I tried to explain that there was no safety issue but it just sounds annoying... it helped a little, but the rattle annoyed me enough to fix it.Vic
~ 1989 MGM LS Colony Park - Large Marge
~ 1998 MGM LS - new DD
~ 1991 MGM LS "The Scab"
~ 1991 MGM GS "The Ice Car"
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Thanks for the recommendations! I found a striker bushing for sale on clipsandfasteners.com and it turns out it's that same Auveco part y'all are recommending. Going to place an order.—John
1985 Ford F-150 XLT Lariat
1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017 & May 2019 - gone, but not forgotten)
1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)
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I don't think Auveco sells direct, but clipsandfasteners is a distributor. They can also get you the specific rivets used for door lock actuators, and the original Ford terminals used in all of the connectors. I never knew they made the strikers though, might buy some of theirs next time I need some.
Not sure I've had to re-replace any either honestly. Not a single one was on the Conti when I got it. I think the Towncar may have had one rear door still, the Mark VII might actually stil have originals. I don't remember changing them at least.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Just to throw out another alternative.....I used fox Mustang ones on my car (as they are readily available through mustang parts websites) and have had no issues. I have never tried the dorman ones.~David~
My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz
Originally posted by ootdega
My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck
Originally posted by gadget73
my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.
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Should be the same part. I do question if the ones available are actually OEM Ford items or just repops with the Ford p/n on there to say what it replaces. I suspect its not the genuine article.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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