Suggestions needed for garage redo

[BigMikeIT]

Hi,

I plan to redo the garage in the house I am in contract to purchase
.
Objectives:
1) Re-do the floor with self leveling concrete and paint it with something. Any advice on a garage floor that may have some moisture from time to time?
2) Gut, redo walls. Anyone use the rigid styrofoam versus batting and then use MDF or Plywood and tips?
3) Back to the flooring- keep it smooth gray or some tile system?
4) Good compressor (oil based) 60gallon? Needed for HLVP and air tools.
5) Air tools make suggestion that is cost effective, durable w/ warranty?
6) Cabinet system
7) Lift for low ceiling? https://www.quickjack.com/bl-5000slx...-car-lift.html -- or other ideas?


Any help is appreciated. Have a fund set aside. Budget 7K doable?

[Tiggie]

Use an epoxy on the floors. Don't have a brand recommendation for you, but nothing else will stick like the epoxy. Quick google search turned up https://www.epoxy-coat.com. No need for tile over - it's tough stuff.

On the air compressor, what are you planning to do with it? I bought a virtually brand new 1980's Craftsman on Craigslist about five years ago. Only a 25ish gallon tank but 9.3scfm at 40psi. The compressor is huge for the tank size. A lot of the older compressors are like that if you shop around. I have sandblasted, grinded, and painted HVLP with it and it's great. Would it hold up to hard daily use like sand blasting? I doubt it. I do have one giant air grinder from a railroad it can't handle. But it works great for hobbiest stuff. And if you need 90psi, you're there in much less time than a 60 or 80 gallon tank with a medium compressor.

[BigMikeIT]

Welder:
Which will be more useful- Lincoln Electric 5/16" able , or 1/2" able (frame work).
Yet I do not want to blow through the metal.
Or if anyone else knows of one with a good Duty.

Compressor:
Seeking one with 10cfm@40psi that won't break the bank.
Like, a rotary that costs $2000.
Looking for under $1000 - understand could be slim pickings.
Want to get best atomization possible for painting.

[BigMikeIT]

On the air compressor, what are you planning to do with it? I bought a virtually brand new 1980's Craftsman on Craigslist about five years ago. Only a 25ish gallon tank but 9.3scfm at 40psi. The compressor is huge for the tank size. A lot of the older compressors are like that if you shop around. I have sandblasted, grinded, and painted HVLP with it and it's great. Would it hold up to hard daily use like sand blasting? I doubt it. I do have one giant air grinder from a railroad it can't handle. But it works great for hobbiest stuff. And if you need 90psi, you're there in much less time than a 60 or 80 gallon tank with a medium compressor.

You know the model number?
Hvlp - just don't want to use too much reducer for better flow.

[DerekTheGreat]

Don't forget to incorporate tunes. Need tunes man. When I get around to it I'll have two 12" subs in there with old ass JBL floor standers & what not.

[BigMerc96]

I gutted 2 rooms in my basement and used rigid EPS foamboard for insulation. I used 1.5" on the studded exterior walls between the studs and 1" on the interior walls and above the drop ceiling. Topped it off with "nice" beadboard paneling, which sticks nice to and feels incredibly solid when glued to the foam. The end result is rooms that are dead silent and take nothing to warm in the winter. I only insulated the ceilings to isolate the room from noise and isolate the rooms above it from noise from in the room. I wired the walls and pre-wired the ceiling for 5.1 surround (expandable to ATMOS if I add the ceiling speakers) to make a media room out of 1 of the rooms. I also noticed with the foamboard in the walls that the rooms are not damp at all unlike the big main room of the basement which has fiberglass in the exterior walls. Granted, this was a basement and not a garage, so its somewhat isolated from extreme exterior temperatures to begin with, but in the depths of winter I can heat the room from 58* to 75* in about 10 minutes with a small space heater. Due to the constraints of dealing with existing walls there was no way to run a air duct from the house's HVAC into the one room.

[gadget73]

Check how far down the welder will go. If it won't run down enough to do sheet metal, its not useful for bodywork. Also, the frames are well under 1/4" thick, so no need for a gorilla welder. Brand is sort of a 6/half dozen thing, but if your local weld supply place has parts for one and not the other thats the winner. A metal feed roller vs a plastic one is a bonus too. The olastic one on the one at work has been replaced a few times and we don't use it a ton. Its bad again. When that wears out the wire doesn't feed and you get bird shit welds.

10 cfm @ 40 is about 4.5 cfm @ 90. P1 x V1 = P2 x V2. So 10 * 40 = cfm * 90, or 400 / 90 = 4.5. A decent 2 stage piston will make that easily. Hell, you can probably do it in bursts with a 2 cylinder single stage piston pump, but the compressor is liable to never shut off. They won't appreciate that too much. You'll need a cooler and a drier if you want to paint though. refrigerated air driers are the balls, but not cheap.

[BigMikeIT]

I read something about the cfm not being calculated that easily though, which is confusing. Something about air resistence loss, so the cfm is more like a curve function than a steadt slope.

Yeah I have seen the 2 stage pumps, and want an oil based pump.
Trouble is running the min 25' pipe to let is cool a bit, then have the dessicant and 2 filters.
Also wondering where to put the quick connects. Maybe there are some sample setups out there.

Maybe LE has a lesser model than the 125 kit.

[gadget73]

2 stage piston pump is probably going to be the most cost effective and less fussy option. I have 2 rotary vanes at work. They're great if you run them all the time. Otherwise they are a moody pain in the ass that is expensive to maintain. One of ours has been running basically constantly for 20 years, the other one runs a good 80 hours a week and has for 15 years or so. They're also noisy. The old 2 stage V4 piston pump that is our backup has been in place since the mid 90s at least and it has given not a single problem. Only thing I've done is change belts, oil, and rewire the control circuit because it was set up in a stupid manner.


Small diameter pipe restricts air flow. The fatter it is and the less turns you have, the better the flow. Older systems ran what is called a "ring feed". Basically you run a loop of pipe around your entire machine, shop, or wherever you use air. Run the various things off taps as you need it. The idea is that any item basically has 2 air pipes feeding it, and there is no "end of the line" that will end up with poor flow. Quick connects are another big choke point. Usual ones have 1/4 NPT pipe, which gives you an ID around 3/8". If you look at the hole in the middle of most connects for that size its closer to 3/16". They do make big ones though, and they aren't a bad idea if you need a lot of volume.

[Tiggie]

You know the model number?
Hvlp - just don't want to use too much reducer for better flow.

Model number is up on the top of the pic.

I ran this test https://www.hunker.com/12174007/how-...air-compressor a couple weeks ago. Got a bit above ten cfm on a 30-50psi run.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BigMikeIT]

Anyone have experience using centrifugal fans?
With the DIY paint booth, came up with some 3D plans in Stketchup.
Need to maintain positive pressure, but more concerned about the VOCs and exhaust fan(s).

Already have some vapor proof lighting.