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how much paint would it take?

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    how much paint would it take?

    How much paint and clear is needed to respray a Gm with a vinyl top? Same color and no primer; just sand back the clear, clean it, and spray it.
    sigpic

    #2
    Well if you're planning on doing the whole car you're going to want to use primer sealer too. Been forever since I've done something of that magnitude and it depends who you run with. For example: PPG basecoat clear coat systems have you reducing the basecoat 1:1 with solvent, so you could probably get away with a gallon of paint. I'd put three coats on it + one "Mist coat" to set the metal flake, otherwise you'll end up with "tiger striping" or modeling as its known in the industry. Primer sealer is important because it will prevent the other paint layers from coming back up through your new paint job, which happened to me as I was a cheap teenager once and needed to fix my broken trash.

    So if it were me, I'd buy a gallon of primer sealer, a gallon of basecoat and two gallons of clear.

    I really don't recommend you do it yourself as you need clean air and a good gun to do things right. Nozzle diameter is important as well as gun type, not to mention proper ventilation and a contamination free work zone with minimal dust, otherwise it will look like Maaco painted your car.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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      #3
      yeah, the more I think about the metal flake the less I want to do this; just exploring all my options on this repair as it sounds like I am on my own.
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        #4
        Honestly to save headache I would just repair what you have. I wouldn't replace the header panel or the fender.

        I'd pick up a stud welder and start attacking the dent on the fender.

        Fiberglass body fill whatever needs to be dont on the header panel (does not look bad at all).

        Keep all repair areas as small as possible.

        Pick up some 2k high build primer in aerosol form (spray max/eastwood) some primer sealer as well. Back mask the area TIGHT then feather the primer into the existing paint some.

        Get some color matched base coat from http://www.expresspaint.com/ and blend in the paint.

        I'd probably re-clear the entire fender or just up to a body line/pin stripe. Get 2k clear in aerosol form as well (spraymax). Whatever you do make sure to sand down the entire area to be cleared with some 1000 grit before painting the previously primered areas.

        Keep it simple.. Don;t turn this into a huge project.

        This is just a very quick explanation on how to do this easily and properly.



        Ive had my entire car repainted. It take a lot of product. KISS.
        ~David~

        My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
        My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

        Originally posted by ootdega
        My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

        Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
        But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

        Originally posted by gadget73
        my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




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          #5
          I second David's suggestions above.

          If you find a good used fender, you could also substitute that. I have used color match out of a spray bomb on my 88. Matches darn good. Not perfect but darn good and 99% people can't tell.

          If you aren't happy with the results, you won't have much in it and can go full scale later.
          1990 Country Squire - under restoration
          1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - daily beater

          GMN Box Panther History
          Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
          Box Panther Production Numbers

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            #6
            I agree with 87gtVIC. YOU can or have a shop repair the parts you have. Keep it simple. Sometimes it turns out much better that way. Buying the materials to repaint the whole car has become EXPENSIVE. Not even counting labor.

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              #7
              Most shops wont repair that fender. It will be a DIY job at best. It is possible with the steps 87gtVIC mentioned but god is there a lot of room for error of the human kind there. Sanding, for example, is a work of art. Those who are good at it don't think twice but it's very easy to screw up body lines or make things look like a golf ball.. I wouldn't respray the whole car either, with where the damage is you could get away with a nice blend job but I would paint the entire fender. I'd have it all done though, I don't have access to the equipment needed and nor do I even have good lighting or a shop with adequate ventilation. Nope, nope and nope.
              1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
              1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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                #8
                Yeah, my plan is changing; which is why I ask questions. I am not going to do the respray, a guy I work with does auto body on the side and I asked him to look at it and get back to me. I can also take the parts to the auto body school were I grew up, takes a while to get things through but if you can wait it's materials plus 20%. The concern I have now is the pinstripe, they are painted and under the clear aren't they?


                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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                  #9
                  Having connections helps. I had them long ago, not so much any more. Pinstripes are typically done on top of the base/clear -least that's the way they were done from the factory and they were done with paint. My Town Car got into a fight with the original owner's garage at some point in it's life and they removed the original ones to replace with the cheap tape type stripes because they were a cheap shop. I've since had the car painted and the stripes redone. My thread should have some pics.
                  1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
                  1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
                    It is possible with the steps 87gtVIC mentioned but god is there a lot of room for error of the human kind there. Sanding, for example, is a work of art. Those who are good at it don't think twice but it's very easy to screw up body lines or make things look like a golf ball..
                    I did not want to discourage the OP so I left that part out, though you are absolutely correct.

                    I have a bunch of experience but am by no way an expert within this field. I get by just fine and have had good success after learning about bodywork for many years. I still learn things though each time I dive into a repair.


                    I have painted a set of BOX fenders in my backyard out in the open and everything went well. I waited a long time for the perfect weather conditions..... It can be done.
                    ~David~

                    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                    Originally posted by ootdega
                    My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                    Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                    Originally posted by gadget73
                    my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




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                      #11
                      When I move out East, I hope to soon after build up the garage with decent compressor, bodyman setup. Plan to redo car self, not necessarily a color change. Kolor has an interesting white aside from the oem PPG 9L.
                      sigpic
                      1987 Mercury Grand Marquis LS 2DR
                      302CID, K&N air filter, Dual cherrybomb glasspacks, Vogue tyres (Front:P225/60R16,,Rear:P235/60R16), Centerline Pulsar wheels (Front:7", Rear 8")
                      COBRA 25LTD CB with/ Wilson 500 whip antenna.

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                        #12
                        I just had my CV painted at Macco and they did a good job for a bottom bid shop they estamated between $300.00 to $1000.00 and it is best to let the pro's do the job,as for the high end bids you are looking at $5000.00 to start.

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                          #13
                          I might check with the tech school up home next fall and see about a refresh and some early rust repair. Have to get the Bronco road worthy first.


                          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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                            #14
                            Good idea to check with the Tech school, they may want to inspect the car if it is "educational" and if they accept your car you may as well have them do the body work and full paint on the car.

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