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    Suggestions/Recommendations for Paint and Body Fillers

    My dad schooled me in paint and body. I've painted and did the body work my 88, and some other things using what he taught me. His knowledge is mostly old school - so I was wondering if any of you had some updated experience/knowledge on materials you'd like to share.

    The subject is my 68 Mustang. It will be going down to bare metal in most places topside. Bottom side will be roughed up but not down to bare. It's got a ton of new metal as well that's got that black coating on it. It will be garage kept and rarely in rain (if ever).

    1) Body Filler: when I slicktopped my 82, it looked perfect for a while. Then the bondo shrank where I filled the holes in the roof. It didn't look bad, but I don't want this same thing to happen on the Mustang. Suggestions for a type and/or brand of body filler that's easy to work and won't shrink? Jusy a skim here and there is all it will need.

    2) self etching primer. My dad never used it and had never had a problem. Yet. But that's over 40 years.

    3) primer/sealer. See number 2. He just put lacquer filler primer down.

    4) is there a preferred order these days? I've always got filler areas down to bare metal, applied filler, and worked that, then put the primer down. How does the sealers and self etches fit into this picture? I could read the directions but I'd rather hear from you experienced people.

    I used a single stage urethane on the 88 which has held up well. I never buffed it because it laid out well and the car is a daily driver. This car is going a very dark blue metallic (presidential blue it's called, a Ford color for that year) and I do want it perfect as I can get it. So buffing may happen, which makes me lean towards base/clear. Can I water sand a metallic base coat before putting the clear on without making the metallic look screwy?

    Finally, it's going red oxide underneath as original. Suggestions on a red oxide primer that's weathertight?
    1990 Country Squire - under restoration
    1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - daily beater

    GMN Box Panther History
    Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
    Box Panther Production Numbers

    #2
    I can only comment on a few things...


    If you want the body to be laser straight (you are going with a dark color so it may be best to shoot for that) I would use some sorta polyester primer surfacer.
    Some refer to it as a sprayable body filler. This will allow you to block the entire car out and get really nice and crisp body lines and super flat panels after all of your other body work is done. Its kinda like the finishing touch before sealing and laying the paint down.

    I would not consider wetsanding the metallic base coat whatsoever. ONLY and ONLY if you have runs in it would I wet sand them out, wetsand that entire panel and reapply the base coat. Your clear coat will cover any orange peel left in the base coat. The orange peel from the clear can then be taken care of. I recommend an ample amount of clear so you have room to work with it not only to get it right after it is painted but to give it protection for years down the road and allow you to wet sand the finish out years from now when it may be looking tired again.


    This is based off of my experiences with what fell short on my vehicle and what I would do in the future.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Originally posted by ootdega
    My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

    Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

    Originally posted by gadget73
    my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




    Comment


      #3
      Thanks for the advise. I haven't had any personal experience applying base/clear, so it is all new to me. Of course my dad is old school again, so he's not much help there either. He told me I should order a lacquer (can't get it local), and put clear over that. He's done that, and again it looks flawless after 30 years on the truck, so I can't completely discount his advise.

      What kind of timeline does base/clear have between the base and the clear?
      1990 Country Squire - under restoration
      1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - daily beater

      GMN Box Panther History
      Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
      Box Panther Production Numbers

      Comment


        #4
        use fiberglass reinforced filler over trim holes, then apply a good quality body filler over the fiberglass........i use evercoat rage gold body filler.

        1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
        2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
        1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
        1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
        2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
        1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

        please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

        Comment


          #5
          +1 on the Rage Gold...good stuff
          I'm not completely oblivious to reality, I just choose to reject it when it doesn't line up with my opinions. (thanx Thain!)

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Tiggie View Post
            Thanks for the advise. I haven't had any personal experience applying base/clear, so it is all new to me. Of course my dad is old school again, so he's not much help there either. He told me I should order a lacquer (can't get it local), and put clear over that. He's done that, and again it looks flawless after 30 years on the truck, so I can't completely discount his advise.

            What kind of timeline does base/clear have between the base and the clear?
            There is normally a window of opportunity after the base is laid and it varies between manufacturers.

            If welding trim holes shut is not an option I would definitely suggest the fiberglass reinforced fillers. Even better would be to slightly tap down the area so the reinforced filler has a little more bit to grab too. Finish with your favorite body filler.

            I used Evercoat Rage Gold when I prepared two fenders for my Crown Victoria. I believe it worked okay. I finished everything up with an epoxy 2k primer and wetsanded all of that out to 600 and applied my base and 2k clear. Panels were perfect after wetsanding (guide coat was used) but months later some body work appeared. I attribute that to not using a sealer before applying the base coat. Only noticeable from a foot or closer but I figured I would mention it.
            ~David~

            My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
            My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

            Originally posted by ootdega
            My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

            Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
            But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

            Originally posted by gadget73
            my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




            Comment


              #7
              So Evercoat Rage Gold filler comes recommended.

              David - do you think it was the filler or primer (or both) that made your body work reappear? My new quarter panels are going to need some filler work at the top - highly visible! I also have some time flexibility. I've read that cure time (weeks - months) helps with this before the final prime and finish.
              1990 Country Squire - under restoration
              1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - daily beater

              GMN Box Panther History
              Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
              Box Panther Production Numbers

              Comment


                #8
                I honestly cannot say.

                I just see outlines of some bodywork I did as well as pigtails from stuff stuck in the da's sandpaper.

                The two fenders coated with 2k epoxy primer, dry guide coated and wetsanded to 600 grit readying it for paint.

                All was perfect after base and clear. All was perfect after allowing the clear to cure for a good while (well over 3 weeks iirc) when I wetsanded out the clearcoat and buffed it all. EDIT (only allowed the clear to harden for a week or so...still that is fine)

                Months later little bits of body work appeared. You only see it when you put your face to the paint but its still there.

                No sealer was used. No clue if it would have helped applying it before my basecoat but next time I do any work like this I will be sealing before basing as I have no other ideas.


                EDIT: Here is a link to the work I did:

                Last edited by 87gtVIC; 06-12-2016, 06:20 PM.
                ~David~

                My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                Originally posted by ootdega
                My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                Originally posted by gadget73
                my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




                Comment


                  #9
                  I mostly use metal bondo for its strength and better moisture resistance also make sure the back side isnt exposed. Best to let it dry for a good while like a week or so before final sanding and prepping for primer and or sealer. NOT LETTING FILLER DRY LONG ENOUGH before painting OR MOISTURE GETTING IN FROM THE BACK SIDE CAUSE SHRINKAGE or it falling out over a short time. I use Rust Bullet for the primer sealer which also does well in areas with small imperfections were many would have used ice filler. Rust bullet is a single stage epoxy. Most of the time I use a foam roller to coat with it. Have used POR 15 but it require special prep and extra expense if your wanting to paint over it with most any automotive paint not so with Rust bullet. I Use silver rust bullet for the most part.
                  Scars are tatoos of the fearless

                  Comment


                    #10




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                    1987 Mercury Grand Marquis LS 2DR
                    302CID, K&N air filter, Dual cherrybomb glasspacks, Vogue tyres (Front:P225/60R16,,Rear:P235/60R16), Centerline Pulsar wheels (Front:7", Rear 8")
                    COBRA 25LTD CB with/ Wilson 500 whip antenna.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Clear coat, not polished




                      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                      sigpic
                      1987 Mercury Grand Marquis LS 2DR
                      302CID, K&N air filter, Dual cherrybomb glasspacks, Vogue tyres (Front:P225/60R16,,Rear:P235/60R16), Centerline Pulsar wheels (Front:7", Rear 8")
                      COBRA 25LTD CB with/ Wilson 500 whip antenna.

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