Good price?

[Toploader]

Is todays Bondo the same as say 40 years ago?.......has the product improved from a chemical standpoint??

POR-15 supposedly prevents moisture & oxygen from further rusting out affected areas but I'm not sure if that is really the case. Bondo or any other filler won't do dick in terms of sealing out the elements. In fact, next time you're at a bone yard and you see a limo or hearse, just start chipping away at any bondo you see, chances are there is over 1/2 an inch of it (LOL) and underneath is scabby steel. ::shiver:: Again, if the underside of any patch work done isn't treated it will just rot from the inside out and do it at an alarming rate.

[DerekTheGreat]

I'm sure there have been changes to the formulations but there are also many different products out there. Surface prep is another thing. They say you should etch the metal and be sure it's clean before you start slapping that stuff on but I never see people do that. I'm not against filler I just think I would want to use some Bonderite 1455 wipes over the metal before I slapped it on for insurance or even do an actual test with and without to see how they hold up.

[Toploader]

I am thinking of removing the body side door mouldings as the doors will be painted, good idea?

[sly]

They are peel and stick IIRC. If you can get repops, maybe, otherwise, tape off and paint around them.

[Mainemantom]

Remove them if you do not want to reuse them. They have been on the car so long, they are too stiff and will fall off quick. If you are going to put new moldings on, then be prepared for the possibility of not finding the exact type. Aftermarkets are available that are similar. With the winter coming up, now is not the time to put on moldings. Warm weather is the best time. Never put molding on freshly painted surfaces. I would wait 30 days. Some people may have other opinions on this.
In your situation, Mask off the trim and paint.

[87gtVIC]

The ones running down the center of the door are adhered one exactly like the others ones you have removed. The lower chrome with black stripe ones are bolted in each corner of the door as well as clipped into place between the two edges of the doors. Its easy to remove after the acorn nuts are removed from each corner. Just push up on a stud and pull the trim away from the vehicle and it will pop, pop, pop right off of the clips and be free. The clips the need to be whacked to the left or right and pushed up or down and then they come free from the metal tits welded onto the door. The mirror comes off by removing the two screws in its base. Be prepared for those to strip out. To remove the trim around the window remove the door panel, window channel weatherstripping then the vent window if equipped (3 screws in the door frame and possibly one near the dew wipe) and you can now remove the three pieces of trim surrounding the window by gently pulling on it. The dew wipe removes easily after some screws are removed and you pull up on it. The lock cylinder is removed easily after you pull the clip out that is accessible in the door jamb. The door handle, if still stock, is riveted into place. Take a center punch and knock out the middle and then drill the rivets out. Now your door is ready for prep and paint.

[Toploader]

Dave I appreciate your thoughts........the ones I was speaking of were the ones that are glued to the center of each door......the small molding that was glued on the small area of the pass side q-panel was the culprit that started the damn surface rust in that area!......the rust started underneath the back side, as I had re-glued that small piece about ten years ago. So I wanted to know if all the remaining glued on moldings should come off and left off? I guess from what Tom, Sly and others have said, it's best to just mask them off and leave them be....this will never be a "ride" like yours ......interior yes, outside never......not enough money, and more to the point, it would be nuts for a car that is street parked in NYC! The body guy will either mask off the other lower moldings, or remove them and then paint.......remember, if I had a home with a garage, then yes those two doors would come off the car....as would the two front fenders to prep the inside metal....but this is not a Jay Leno garage deal.........just want to clean her up somewhat body wise, and try to get more years out of her....only has about 83K miles on her......but all city miles:-( The body guy may what to remove the remaining glued on moldings and leave them off, wonder how the car will look without them on? [QUOTE=87gtVIC;767491

[87Topaz]

Unless the moldings are in REALLY bad shape, I'd mask and paint. This is not a "show car" and living on the streets in NYC will deteriorate it anyway. This fact alone would lower the bar on my expectation level!

[GM_Guy]

You should check up on the prices of different colors, reds in particular tend to be priced higher.
If you really want to shit your pants, look up House of Kolor paints...

Alex.

[sly]

and if you really want to have a financial heart attack... look up the cost of pearl paints.

[Toploader]

How much paint would be needed to completely paint my Tudor?.......

[87gtVIC]

A gallon of base coat.

Below is a link to the products used on my car back in 2010.

http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?26257-My-1987-Two-Door-Crown-Victoria-AKA-THE-BROWN-BLOB&p=579318&viewfull=1#post579318