Hi!
Spring break starts on the 20th, perfect time to repaint my 1990 colony park wagon.
Not much time till then, 2 weeks, so I need to plan in earnest. I'm taking it to maaco for their single stage polyurethane btw, will be pulling trim, sanding, and taping myself to take care of prepwork. Don't hate! The blue book value of this old car is a third of what a pro job would begin to cost-- I just want it not to look like a rusty jalopy, doesn't need to be a showcar.
Anyway! Two body work issues.
Last fall I mangled the quarter panel on a pole I didn't see (have since added blind spot mirrors ) Hah-- and it turned out under the crumpled steel, was flaking bondo-- I wasn't the first!
I've been reading up on it, but I'm still nervous. How hard is spot welding and using a slide hammer to pull the dents? Can I rent a spot welder?
Or can I get behind these dents and pry them out? It seems like two layers of steel, one behind the outside layer and then pinch welded together at the bottom seam, so I honestly don't know if I could get between them...
Second. Left rear wheel well has some noticeable rust, about 4 square inches of flaky paint. There's somewhere else that has a faint touch also, bubbles under the paint. Not so bad really, it's not a rustbucket at all. I've done elementary mig welding, torch welding, and brazing before; and probably can get access to an acetylene torch-- but I've no experience in autobody work specifically. How scary is grinding off this section and brazing on a new piece of fresh steel? Very scary with a high risk of looking like shit if I'm still learning?
I'm wondering if I should just sand it down, maybe counter some of the rust with naval jelly or fill in at the very edge where it's crumbling with bondo, and go ahead and paint over it?
Hech, in 5, 8 yrs if I've still got the car I can repaint it and do the body work right. Wondering if I can kindof smooth over the rust spot-- it's not in a prominent place, and if small bubbles form under the paint 2 yrs from now, it's not a showcar. But if it'll look worse than that, or if in balance, brazing on fresh sheet metal isn't so scary hard, maybe I'll go ahead and try to do it right!
thanks for the advice and encouragement,
-Bernard
Spring break starts on the 20th, perfect time to repaint my 1990 colony park wagon.
Not much time till then, 2 weeks, so I need to plan in earnest. I'm taking it to maaco for their single stage polyurethane btw, will be pulling trim, sanding, and taping myself to take care of prepwork. Don't hate! The blue book value of this old car is a third of what a pro job would begin to cost-- I just want it not to look like a rusty jalopy, doesn't need to be a showcar.
Anyway! Two body work issues.
Last fall I mangled the quarter panel on a pole I didn't see (have since added blind spot mirrors ) Hah-- and it turned out under the crumpled steel, was flaking bondo-- I wasn't the first!
I've been reading up on it, but I'm still nervous. How hard is spot welding and using a slide hammer to pull the dents? Can I rent a spot welder?
Or can I get behind these dents and pry them out? It seems like two layers of steel, one behind the outside layer and then pinch welded together at the bottom seam, so I honestly don't know if I could get between them...
Second. Left rear wheel well has some noticeable rust, about 4 square inches of flaky paint. There's somewhere else that has a faint touch also, bubbles under the paint. Not so bad really, it's not a rustbucket at all. I've done elementary mig welding, torch welding, and brazing before; and probably can get access to an acetylene torch-- but I've no experience in autobody work specifically. How scary is grinding off this section and brazing on a new piece of fresh steel? Very scary with a high risk of looking like shit if I'm still learning?
I'm wondering if I should just sand it down, maybe counter some of the rust with naval jelly or fill in at the very edge where it's crumbling with bondo, and go ahead and paint over it?
Hech, in 5, 8 yrs if I've still got the car I can repaint it and do the body work right. Wondering if I can kindof smooth over the rust spot-- it's not in a prominent place, and if small bubbles form under the paint 2 yrs from now, it's not a showcar. But if it'll look worse than that, or if in balance, brazing on fresh sheet metal isn't so scary hard, maybe I'll go ahead and try to do it right!
thanks for the advice and encouragement,
-Bernard
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