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will body shops use lead?

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    #1

    will body shops use lead?

    my car was a DD for 20 years above the salt belt so it has some rust in the usual places (bottom of door skin, quarter panels, and surface rust in the door jams and trunk lid).

    both quarters seem solid but had been repaired with bondo about 5 years ago and the rust came back.

    im just not sure how popular it is anymore, or if theyll even do it upon request.
    either they use lead or im having them completely cut out.

    so will a good body shop use lead if i ask them?
    Last edited by rick99601; 09-26-2010, 08:46 PM.
    1988 MGM GS - Preferred Equipment Package 172A; InstaClear

    1980 Lincoln Continental Coupe
    1994 MGM GS Montigua
    2005 F150 Lariat Scab 4x4 3.73 LS
    2002 Mustang GT Coupe
    Tags: None
    #2
    In short, probably not. There are only a few of the oldsters who know how to do it properly these days.
    Owner of the only known 5 speed box wagon with a lift kit.
    AKA, Herkimer the Hillbilly SUV.



    Axle codes
    Open/Lock/Ratio #
    -----------------------
    G / H / 2.26
    B / C / 2.47
    8 / M / 2.73
    7 / - / 3.07
    Y / Z / 3.08
    4 / D / 3.42
    F / R / 3.45
    5 / E / 3.27
    6 / W / 3.73
    2 / K / 3.55
    A / - / 3.63
    J / - / 3.85

    Comment

      #3
      its true, i only know one guy who can work with it.

      1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham 2-Door 302/ 5-speed -special blend (GMGT)
      1987 Lincoln Mark VII 5-speed (Errand runner)
      1989 Mercury Grand Marquis (Base Runner)
      2007 Lincoln Town Car Signature Limited (Hustlyn)
      2011 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor (Down with O.P.P)

      Comment

        #4
        You're probably better off having the big rust areas cut out and new metal welded in. Lead is more used for a filler, not to plug rot holes in panels that look like swiss cheese. Also, the fact that nobody really does it anymore is a problem.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

        Comment

          #5
          The problem wasn't the "bondo" if the rust came back it was an improper repair in the first place. I think a light weight poly filler is superior to lead anyway. If used correctly it will last as long and is just as durable as a lead repair.


          '90 LX 5.0 mustang
          Big plans

          Comment

            #6
            I missed the mention of the prior bondo repair. Yeah you can't fix rusty panels with that stuff. its a filler, meant to fill in low spots. Its not a replacement for metal, and it should never be used in a situation where its thick. Properly used, it works fine but when entire panel sections, rust, or deep dents are repaired with the stuff, its a sure bet its going to fall out.

            If you want to see the scary but correct way to repair rotted out quarter panels, there are pics of my car cut apart here: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...t=37137&page=5

            Both sides were done, poke through the thread and you'll see pics of the various stages of repair.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment

              #7
              I intend to pick up lead work at some point in the future. I haven't yet because the start up costs of all the equipment and materials is a bit pricey for something I want to teach myself and most likely will never use unless I get into a high end resto shop like I want. It's an interesting old technique, and other than the fact that it'd look really good on a resume to a resto shop, I can't explain why I'd like to learn. Maybe it's just because it's a lost art and I'm interesting in being "that guy" that knows how to do lead work. Something about knowing how to do something that most bodymen twice my age can't do, and doing something that fell out of favor well before I was born.

              What everyone else said, though. Lead is not meant to repair rust. Even if you hid it with lead, it would continue rusting inside the lead until one day the whole repair just fell clean off what's left of the panel, and unlike plastic filler I don't think your tires would fare too well rolling over a lead repair.

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