rear door jamb/body seam rust issue

[monterey1962]

I have two rust spots in the rear door jambs that will need to be repaired. Both sides are in the same areas. They follow along the body seam in front of the rear tires. From what I can tell, the rust isn't too deep to get at. The rust is on both sides of the seams. Note: In the pics the rest of the area is just dirty. The rust is pretty obvious.

Would like to know the best way to attack these two areas. I want to do it so there is no noticeable repair. Open to all relevant information in regards to repairing the rust areas.

[pantera77]

Grind it.
POR-15 it.
Paint it.

[Lincolnmania]

you have a small air compressor right justin?
a spot blaster would probably be best to use.....heres an example of one

http://www.harborfreight.com/21-oz-hopper-gravity-feed-spot-blaster-gun-95793.html?xcamp=google&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cpc&zmam=13262200&zmas=12&zmac=112&zmap=95793

[cld783]

keep the repair as small as possible, mask it off and spray it with a duplicolor spray bomb.

unfortunately it's likely to be coming from the inside out.

[monterey1962]

you have a small air compressor right justin?
a spot blaster would probably be best to use.....heres an example of one
http://www.harborfreight.com/21-oz-h...112&zmap=95793

It'd be a tough corner to get the grinder in.

I have a 20 gal. compressor. That blaster looks like a decent deal. Eastwood wants $60 for their version. I assume once it's blasted, feather the paint/primer out like a regular body repair, primer, and paint?

I wouldn't dump Dupli-color paint on there. I can get a color matched can mixed for under $22 downtown at the parts store.

[87gtVIC]

I would probably mask off strictly the rusted area and do your blast work.

Feather edge all of the surrounding paint with something like 220 grit paper and light pressure on a sanding pad of some sort to avoid streaking.

Mask off the new area and spray the area with a rust converter and let dry.

Feather out any overspray and the area worked with some 320 or so in preparation for primer.

Again mask off the area and lay down a skimpy coat of a rusty metal primer (or whatever you may want to use) just to get things started, wait a couple of minuted and follow up with a wetter coat to cover up the area.

When the primer is fully dry and cured wet sand the area with 400 and a flexible sanding pad again (something like a thick sponge so you get even contact). Try to wet sand the area blending in the new primer and the old blue paint around the area.

If the surface still looks dimply (if you even care about it that much) from the rust being removed from blasting, you can try and use a filler primer to try and even things out more again (may or may not fill in pits). If you choose this route wet sand everything again with 400 blending everything into each other yet again.

Then mask off the area for the final time. Trick is to use wide tape around the area and roll the closest edges to the preformed work back and tape it back loosely. This allows some paint to feather itself out underneath the rolled edges of the paint. This will ensure that you have no hard edges from laying on new paint.

After I guess you can apply clear on if you desire and then buff the surrounding areas to blend everything in.

That is the way I would probably get it done, aside from using blaster because I do not have one.