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Thoughts on wire tuck.

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    Thoughts on wire tuck.

    I was staring under the hood of Vicky yesterday, and noticed wires EVERYWHERE. How would one go about stashing things that clutter up both inner fenderwells? The wires could probably just be stashed up underneath the fenders, between the outer and the inner, but what about the bigger things? I'm not too worried about the stuff on the firewall, as they can just be be cleaned up and re painted.

    This also won't happen until over the summer when I plan on an engine swap, so I will have things out of the way.
    Parts Car (Scrapped ) - Vicky - 1987 LTD Crown Victoria: 17x8 Gunmetal Gray Coys C-5 wheels, 235/55-17 Falken Ziex ZE-502 tires. 79 LTD Grille, Taillights, and Turn Signals, Blue LED Dash Lights, PI Rear Sway Bar, 140 MPH Speedometer, Dual Exhaust w/ Mustang Headers.
    New Project: Vicky II - 1981 Ford LTD: 61,XXX miles, virtually rust free. Currently For Sale

    #2
    also, I forgot, what about the mess of wires that runs across the firewall? Would I have to lower them out of the field of vision, or is there away to fun them behind the firewall (between the dash)
    Parts Car (Scrapped ) - Vicky - 1987 LTD Crown Victoria: 17x8 Gunmetal Gray Coys C-5 wheels, 235/55-17 Falken Ziex ZE-502 tires. 79 LTD Grille, Taillights, and Turn Signals, Blue LED Dash Lights, PI Rear Sway Bar, 140 MPH Speedometer, Dual Exhaust w/ Mustang Headers.
    New Project: Vicky II - 1981 Ford LTD: 61,XXX miles, virtually rust free. Currently For Sale

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      #3
      to me clean, presentable, and what looks like it could have came out of the showroom/factory is whats nice

      everyone has different taste though
      Im just thinking diagnosing problems would be more of a pain in the ass

      I can see if its a trailer queen that youre trying to get on magazine covers, but its just not all that practical imho

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        #4
        i'll get some pics up, i'm in the process of doing this and have cleaned up all the wireing allot. She looks pretty clean and simple under thier for an EFI, and I will get some pics up in a week or so. Start by cutting all the loom and tape off all the wires and start lengthening and shortening each wire to neatly group everything all together. Of course use good correct wiring, solder connection, and keep the lengths close to stock as to not add to much extra resistance to sensitive sensors and wiring.
        Finally have an on the books porting/custom fab business!
        HO bottom end,GT40Ps,cut/welded/ported upper+lower GT40 intakes,Comp XE258 cam,MS3X megasquirt computer,8 LS2 coils,2 dry systems + a 3rd wet,3 core rad w fans..1100hp Lentech WR AOD,custom 4" aluminum/moly Dshaft,custom rear/back half chassis adjustable 4link,wilwood 4 piston,moser 9" axles,locker, M/T 30x12's,4 staged fuel pumps,100lbs sound insulation,power/remote everything,2000W sound.4480lbs. 4.5s 0-60,12.8 1/4

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          #5
          Just depends on how far you wanna go with it. When mine gets done one of these days, I plan on running the headlight wiring in the fenders between the innner fender and the fender. Then relocate the ecu to the center under the dash and redo the engine harness and have it run through the firewall up under the dash in the bellhousing area of the tranny tunnel. The battery moved to the trunk. delete anything unnessecary or not used. Then do somthing with all the vaccum hose mess. But anyway you can go all out like im doing with the honda or you can just clean and organize a bit. No science to it I do it with many many hours of staring and thinking about the best ways to runs wires and the best places to hide stuff. Do lots of planning for the best end result.


          '90 LX 5.0 mustang
          Big plans

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            #6
            Been thinking about doing this for a while. I'd say do it right or don't do it at all though, would look amazing done properly. Seems like plenty of good ways to do it in these cars. Even better looking if you aren't running any egr stuff or a/c. so much cleaner without those two things. If/when i get around to it i'll want to make a new, high quality harness and connectors so i don't need to worry about reliability.


            1984 Grand Marquis GS - CFI-SEFI conversion, Explorer 302, GT40 intakes, GT40P heads, 1.7 roller rockers, HO Cam, ASP Underdrive Pulley, 2.5" Dual exhaust, Flowmaster Delta 50 mufflers, 3.55 Trac-Lock, Rear disk's, Moog cargo coils, ES rear poly bushings, PI front and rear sway bars, 3G alt., Mark VIII fan, custom Auto-meter dash
            1990 Crown Victoria Country Squire - Explorer 302, HO cam, dual exhaust, 3.55 Trac-Lock, PI rear sway bar (SOLD)
            1982 LTD Wagon (R.I.P.) -|-1984 Grand Marquis LS(R.I.P.)

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by jayh View Post
              to me clean, presentable, and what looks like it could have came out of the showroom/factory is whats nice

              everyone has different taste though
              Im just thinking diagnosing problems would be more of a pain in the ass
              You have great taste.

              Thats the avenue I'm taking with my truck. Some of the factory wiring is pretty haphazardly routed, and I cleaned that up a bit. But I like stuff to look 'factory'.
              **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
              **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
              **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
              **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by jayh View Post
                to me clean, presentable, and what looks like it could have came out of the showroom/factory is whats nice

                everyone has different taste though
                Im just thinking diagnosing problems would be more of a pain in the ass

                I can see if its a trailer queen that youre trying to get on magazine covers, but its just not all that practical imho

                I can understand that, I might just find a way to hide just the wires themselves, as that's really the only thing that's bothering me. Dave and Pete have both wired up that fuse box, and that cleaned things up a ton, might have to try that for at least the passenger side, and then work out any other things. The drivers side, I'll probably run all of the headlight wires between the fenders. I just HATE seeing the wires EVERYWHERE.
                Parts Car (Scrapped ) - Vicky - 1987 LTD Crown Victoria: 17x8 Gunmetal Gray Coys C-5 wheels, 235/55-17 Falken Ziex ZE-502 tires. 79 LTD Grille, Taillights, and Turn Signals, Blue LED Dash Lights, PI Rear Sway Bar, 140 MPH Speedometer, Dual Exhaust w/ Mustang Headers.
                New Project: Vicky II - 1981 Ford LTD: 61,XXX miles, virtually rust free. Currently For Sale

                Comment

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