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Thoughts on shaving hood ornament

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    Thoughts on shaving hood ornament

    I've seen box CV's without the hood ornament, and I think it looks kinda badass. I had thoughts of shaving off the hood oranment (it would go with the clean look I'm going for) but I haven't figured out the best way to do it. I originally thought that the header panel was made of metal, so I would just weld in a piece of metal and smooth it off. But then I learned it was made of a tough plastic, or fiberglass, or whatever it is, so that went out the window.

    So what would be the best way to fill in the hole, and have it last a while without cracking? And can it be done in a weekend? I'm planning on trying it this weekend, because I won"t have anywhere to go (its still my DD) And please, if you are going to respond, just give a suggestion on how to do it, don"t try to talk me out of it, because there are some people who just love their hood ornaments lol
    Parts Car (Scrapped ) - Vicky - 1987 LTD Crown Victoria: 17x8 Gunmetal Gray Coys C-5 wheels, 235/55-17 Falken Ziex ZE-502 tires. 79 LTD Grille, Taillights, and Turn Signals, Blue LED Dash Lights, PI Rear Sway Bar, 140 MPH Speedometer, Dual Exhaust w/ Mustang Headers.
    New Project: Vicky II - 1981 Ford LTD: 61,XXX miles, virtually rust free. Currently For Sale

    #2
    I'd glue some canvas or mesh (some type of material) on the back side to cover the hole and then fill the void with body filler (fiber glass first and then some plastic to smooth it out) and just paint over that after sanding.


    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

    Originally posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

    Originally posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

    Comment


      #3
      hood ornaments FTW! my cars have to have em lol. they look bad ass on a moded panther.

      1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham 2-Door 302/ 5-speed -special blend (GMGT)
      1987 Lincoln Mark VII 5-speed (Errand runner)
      1989 Mercury Grand Marquis (Base Runner)
      2007 Lincoln Town Car Signature Limited (Hustlyn)
      2011 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor (Down with O.P.P)

      Comment


        #4
        I have seen men beaten for less. Leave it on there!!
        sigpic


        - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

        - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

        - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

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          #5
          Originally posted by slymer View Post
          I'd glue some canvas or mesh (some type of material) on the back side to cover the hole and then fill the void with body filler (fiber glass first and then some plastic to smooth it out) and just paint over that after sanding.

          thats not that bad of an idea. What kind of adhesive or method would be best to make the material stick? and what would be the best material to use?
          Parts Car (Scrapped ) - Vicky - 1987 LTD Crown Victoria: 17x8 Gunmetal Gray Coys C-5 wheels, 235/55-17 Falken Ziex ZE-502 tires. 79 LTD Grille, Taillights, and Turn Signals, Blue LED Dash Lights, PI Rear Sway Bar, 140 MPH Speedometer, Dual Exhaust w/ Mustang Headers.
          New Project: Vicky II - 1981 Ford LTD: 61,XXX miles, virtually rust free. Currently For Sale

          Comment


            #6
            that's a good question. If you can get a patch of fiberglass under there I think that would be best (like the stuff they use to make fiberglass molds out of). I'd sand the underside a bit just to make it a little more tacky to the adhesive. From what I personally have on hand, I'd use some plumbers tape and plastiweld epoxy... but that's cause I don't care about how bad things look on areas you don't see... hence the redneck intake.

            Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
            rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

            Originally posted by gadget73
            ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

            Originally posted by dmccaig
            Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

            Comment


              #7
              I personally wouldn't do it. If you want to, do this. Take out the ornament, put some tape on the underside of the hole. Sand around the area with 80 grit sandpaper, Get some tiger hair body filler, mix it with some hardener, apply it on the holes, make sure you get the filler packed in there nicely. Allow the filler to dry, sand the filler to close to the same height. Then grab a lighter grade sand paper, and sand it by hand or with a small sanding block to form the point. You should be good then. Hope this helps.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by 86VickyLX View Post
                I personally wouldn't do it. If you want to, do this. Take out the ornament, put some tape on the underside of the hole. Sand around the area with 80 grit sandpaper, Get some tiger hair body filler, mix it with some hardener, apply it on the holes, make sure you get the filler packed in there nicely. Allow the filler to dry, sand the filler to close to the same height. Then grab a lighter grade sand paper, and sand it by hand or with a small sanding block to form the point. You should be good then. Hope this helps.
                I DEFINITELY wouldn't do it that way. With nothing supporting the "tiger hair" besides the tape below, all it would need was weight in the right place you'd have a new hole with a circle of filler on the pavement. You're entirely depending on how well the stuff grips onto the original header. I wouldn't leave it up to that.

                Personally I'd bevel the hole out as shallow as I could with a nice rough grit like 36. We're talking if the hole is 3/4" wide, I'd probably make a bevel an additional inch around the hole. Then I'd use some fiberglass mat, followed by fiberglass filler/tiger hair, followed by plastic filler, grinding flush when necessary and then doing standard autobody smoothing techniques (gradually finer grit, etc) for a finished look.

                I'm anal retentive so I'd probably remove the header and fill/sand the underside too so there was no evidence of there ever being an ornament.

                Another way could be to bevel both sides so they meet in the middle of the header, and then lay a couple layers of fiberglass mat on the top, and another couple on the underside, etc.


                Without cutting the header in half, no one will ever be able to tell something was done.

                Comment


                  #9
                  What are you planning on doing for paint? I'm having a hell of a time finding exact-match paint without actually getting it custom mixed from a paint supply store, and I think we have the same paint code.

                  85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
                  160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
                  waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

                  06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by johnunit View Post
                    What are you planning on doing for paint? I'm having a hell of a time finding exact-match paint without actually getting it custom mixed from a paint supply store, and I think we have the same paint code.
                    I don't know how it works up north, but we were able to find automotive paint in a can that is an exact match. I do believe we both have Dark Shadow Blue Poly (paint code 7N by my chip sheet). I can get you the brand and a pic when I get home (I'm in the school library lol), but we painted the replacement driver's door with it, and you can kinda tell the difference if you know its there. Anyone else that doesn't know you replaced anything can't tell the difference. Its just a holdover until I can afford a full repaint.
                    Parts Car (Scrapped ) - Vicky - 1987 LTD Crown Victoria: 17x8 Gunmetal Gray Coys C-5 wheels, 235/55-17 Falken Ziex ZE-502 tires. 79 LTD Grille, Taillights, and Turn Signals, Blue LED Dash Lights, PI Rear Sway Bar, 140 MPH Speedometer, Dual Exhaust w/ Mustang Headers.
                    New Project: Vicky II - 1981 Ford LTD: 61,XXX miles, virtually rust free. Currently For Sale

                    Comment


                      #11
                      yeah a pic or part number would be great. Around here most of the auto parts places just have duplicolor "exact match", and they don't have my paint code (54K) or the one you said (probably 54K renamed) anywhere.

                      /hijack

                      If you're going custom otherwise, which you seem to be, shaving the hood ornament will look cool.

                      85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
                      160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
                      waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

                      06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

                      Comment


                        #12
                        here is what I use



                        Plasti-Kote Truck and Sport Utility, you want number 1533 Dark Shadow Blue Metallic. I completely forgot where we first found it though.


                        And I am probably going to take the route that CheeseSteakJim Suggested, but I don"t think I can get that done in a weekend and have it look nice lol. So I might have to hold off for a little bit.
                        Parts Car (Scrapped ) - Vicky - 1987 LTD Crown Victoria: 17x8 Gunmetal Gray Coys C-5 wheels, 235/55-17 Falken Ziex ZE-502 tires. 79 LTD Grille, Taillights, and Turn Signals, Blue LED Dash Lights, PI Rear Sway Bar, 140 MPH Speedometer, Dual Exhaust w/ Mustang Headers.
                        New Project: Vicky II - 1981 Ford LTD: 61,XXX miles, virtually rust free. Currently For Sale

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Thanks. I hadn't thought to check the truck-specific section.

                          85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
                          160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
                          waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

                          06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

                          Comment

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