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    JB Weld and equivilents

    I have a question on a product know and J-B Weld, and other similar products such as a liquid metal- i don't know the exact name i have it at home.

    I was wondering if anyone has attempted to do any body work with it, instead of welding a new quarter panel on for instance, using this. It sounds promising but is it a good idea??
    -Phil

    sigpic

    +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

    +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

    #2
    I wouldn't do it. They make panel adhesive designed specifically for that application. I would be wary of JB Weld's adhesive properties.


    Also if this is on a unibody car that quarter needs to be welded. Never use panel adhesive on a structural panel alone.

    Comment


      #3
      ahh yeah it is on a unibody, i just dont have access to a welder haha...

      Are there any other solutions besides welding that can be bought?? I saw something about a rivet system used?
      -Phil

      sigpic

      +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

      +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

      Comment


        #4
        Hm, I don't know much about a riveting system that would be structurally sound. I'm sure some (shady) shops probably glue the entire quarter on regardless but you're supposed to at least weld the main structural points, i.e. the c-pillar, the dog leg, areas around the tail light, etc.

        To be honest Phil, if you don't have access to a welder and expect to replace a unibody quarter then you should probably employ the help of someone who does. I wouldn't fuck around with something like that, especially if it's someone you care about.

        Comment


          #5
          ok, thanks Nick, it is someone i care about, me. haha. Right now the metal basically does not exist... i ground the bad rust down and covered it in rust converter, primer, and paint to prevent more rust...however the appearence is not the best.

          I can get a 115V 25-100 amp welder for free...however it draws 26.6 amps....and our old house is not equipped for that... maybe i can get the welder and find a friend who is
          -Phil

          sigpic

          +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

          +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

          Comment


            #6
            You can rivet some non structural parts on if you know what your doing and are good with filler, sometimes it ends up looking like a caked up mess though.
            "Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles
            1985 GMC 1500

            Comment


              #7
              rivets would create a lot of stress points if its structural. I'd expect the panel to stretch around the rivets and eventually start ripping metal. Welding is the way to go for that.

              I have a 60 amp service in my shed, and I can install a branch circuit that will do 30 amps if you buy me the proper outlet. I think I have some 10 ga wire here. Probably would need a breaker too. I think all the ones I have on hand are 20 amp.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                rivets would create a lot of stress points if its structural. I'd expect the panel to stretch around the rivets and eventually start ripping metal. Welding is the way to go for that.

                I have a 60 amp service in my shed, and I can install a branch circuit that will do 30 amps if you buy me the proper outlet. I think I have some 10 ga wire here. Probably would need a breaker too. I think all the ones I have on hand are 20 amp.
                I'm afraid i am not well versed in home electrical work Thain... what do you mean by 60 amp service?

                I would very much like to be able to use the welder, it has a special plug end, its three pronged, one is vertical, like most plugs, and the other is horizontal, with an additional round ground prong.

                How much would you charge to do this if i bought all the materials??
                -Phil

                sigpic

                +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

                Comment


                  #9
                  Yeah welding is the way to go if its structural, My rear quarters are riveted on though and no problems yet, of course most of the old quarter was there but with holes in the middle.
                  "Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles
                  1985 GMC 1500

                  Comment


                    #10
                    i just realized i put this in the wrong section...feel free to move it to bodywork haha...
                    -Phil

                    sigpic

                    +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                    +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

                    Comment


                      #11
                      where is the rust? can you take pics?

                      1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                      2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                      1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                      1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                      2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                      1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                      please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        yes i have pix on my other computer... i need to get a new charger for it though.. and its more around the front of the rear passengers wheel well...below/behind the door. i will try to post pix as soon as possible
                        -Phil

                        sigpic

                        +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                        +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

                        Comment


                          #13
                          PIX! I know its a crap job but it was the best i wanted to do without welding XD, now i want a better fix





                          Attached Files
                          -Phil

                          sigpic

                          +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                          +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Moved to bodywork and paint.
                            ~David~

                            My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                            My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                            Originally posted by ootdega
                            My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                            Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                            But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                            Originally posted by gadget73
                            my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Brown_Muscle View Post
                              I'm afraid i am not well versed in home electrical work Thain... what do you mean by 60 amp service?

                              I would very much like to be able to use the welder, it has a special plug end, its three pronged, one is vertical, like most plugs, and the other is horizontal, with an additional round ground prong.

                              How much would you charge to do this if i bought all the materials??
                              means I can run up to 60 amps in the shed. No charge for the stuff, just you'd need to bring me the socket that welder needs. I can wire it, most likely with materials on hand. Mind you I can't weld for crap, so you're on your own there. If you can get me pics of the plug, its possible I have the proper outlet installed already. What you describe sounds like a 20 amp plug, and I have one of those right under the box.
                              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                              Originally posted by phayzer5
                              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                              Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

                              Comment

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