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    #16
    Originally posted by 91grandmarquis View Post
    Yeah welding is the way to go if its structural, My rear quarters are riveted on though and no problems yet, of course most of the old quarter was there but with holes in the middle.
    Body on frame is a different story. You can get away with a lot more.

    Originally posted by Brown_Muscle View Post
    PIX! I know its a crap job but it was the best i wanted to do without welding XD, now i want a better fix





    Shit dude, you don't need a full quarter. You just need to replace that dog leg. Do you just want to replace it because it looks like crap? Heh, I could make you a patch panel if you were up here.

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      #17
      That doesn't look TOO bad, or too structural. Some time with some sheet metal and tin snips, get someone to weld it in (in exchange for a few beers?), and then cover it up with bondo.

      It might not look perfect, but if someone rags on you just pull out a picture of your LTD-S.

      85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
      160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
      waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

      06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

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        #18
        haha i didnt think it was too structural. I do want it repaired mostly due to looks....however it is also due to a pet peeve of mine... the car is now 99% rust free, with a straight body, immaculate interior...and then theres this one imperfection in it (besides the dents..haha) So i would like to get it fixed.

        Since it doesnt look all that structural, if im unable to find a welder, do you think the panel adhesive may work in this situation??
        -Phil

        sigpic

        +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

        +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

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          #19
          Yeah, it should be fine man... I thought you were replacing an entire quarter. THAT kind of shit requires lots of care.

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            #20
            allllllright, sweet nibblets, thanks mangs
            -Phil

            sigpic

            +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

            +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

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              #21
              oh one more question, what kind of body filler is recommended? I hear bondo is actually crap...id like to use a high-quality filler
              -Phil

              sigpic

              +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

              +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

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                #22
                I would start with either fiberglass or metal-reinforced filler (if you can find it), then smoothing that shit out with some bondo, and finishing with some glazing putty if you'd like.


                a great many people don't like "Bondo" the brand, but all plastic filler is not terrible. I've had good luck with USC and Evercoat products.
                Last edited by CheeseSteakJim; 02-06-2010, 08:37 PM.

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                  #23
                  thanks! I'll keep an eye out and see what i can find
                  -Phil

                  sigpic

                  +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                  +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

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                    #24
                    +1 on evercoat filler


                    '90 LX 5.0 mustang
                    Big plans

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                      #25
                      MarGlass is good, its got fiberglass in it, body filler from a parts store will work fine too, for your results to be well worth it use red putty (yeah its called that) to fill the tiny scratches in the bondo after sanding it, then sand the putty wet with 300. To check to see if its flat just spray some prepsol on it and it will flash wet for a little bit long enough to figure out what it will look like with some shiny paint on it.
                      "Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles
                      1985 GMC 1500

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                        #26
                        the red putty you speak of, is that glazing putty? Usually thats red in color and used for that purpose. I never knew it existed as "red putty" brand though.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                        Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

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                          #27
                          Actually it's usually white, with a blue or red hardener. It's often red in the premixed smaller tubes found in auto parts stores but in professional shops in the bigger tubes it's almost always white with a tinted hardener.

                          I've used MarGlass and Marson's plastic filler (I believe they call it BODY LIGHT now - used to be called White Lightnin') and I kinda think it sucks compared to Evercoat and USC products. Fiberglass filler never sands as well as plastic filler, but all of Marson's products (that I've used at least - only the MarGlass, White Lightnin', and BODY LIGHT) seem to sand worse than the comparable products sold by the aforementioned manufacturers. They spread and fill just fine but as far as sanding I've noticed Marson's stuff sometimes likes to clump up and clog sandpaper a lot quicker. I think they changed their formula for their plastic filler when they changed its name, because White Lightnin' was TERRIBLE shit. BODY LIGHT is much, much better. Good enough that I use it at home when I need to - but still I feel that Evercoat and USC make superior products.
                          Last edited by CheeseSteakJim; 02-08-2010, 12:33 PM.

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by Brown_Muscle View Post
                            ok, thanks Nick, it is someone i care about, me. haha. Right now the metal basically does not exist... i ground the bad rust down and covered it in rust converter, primer, and paint to prevent more rust...however the appearence is not the best.

                            I can get a 115V 25-100 amp welder for free...however it draws 26.6 amps....and our old house is not equipped for that... maybe i can get the welder and find a friend who is
                            Dude, you could've signed up for that class and fixed that on your yoda. Welder, sheet metal and all you can use lol. And someone who could teach you how to weld well. :p Bodyfiller too.

                            Nu-Metal Would be great for your application for filler though.

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