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    #16
    Yeah, just wash and wax to keep her from getting any worse. It should fill in the scratches and seal 'em until you decide on doing body work in the future.
    Chris - A 20th Century Man \m/ ^.^ \m/

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      #17
      Originally posted by Smokestacklightnin View Post
      Not to argue, but my car color is French Vanilla Metalic, it does not have a clearcoat. When my wifes grandfather had the car he dented a fender, and it was repainted with base coat clearcoat the clear is pealing on that fender.
      Not to argue either, but that doesn't support your statement that it's not a clear-coat paint job on the rest of the car. My 94 Camry is a base/clear paint, and the only part with pealing clear is the hood because it was replaced with a new one and painted about 5-6 years ago. Ask any paint shop. Poor prep work will lead to clear-coat pealing, where a good prep will not. And no matter what, blended clear will start to crack and haze within 2-3 years of outside life.

      I'm not saying that your car is a clear or not, but just that a failed repair job doesn't support the argument either way.

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        #18
        My car's an 86', med. shadow blue metallic w/o any clearcoat. IIRC, they started the switch in 87', 88' correct? You should certainly be able to cay a car without any adverse effects. A clay bar simply removes pollutants, fallout, and of course wax, but has no abrasive qualities. The problem of course comes in when the bar gets contaminated. If you drop it, it's garbage, I've done it before myself. Also as you use it, fold it over itself every so often so you use the whole bar. It's always best to work in sections and start from the cleanest parts (roof) and work down. Also, with a clay bar, you'll want to use some lubrication like a spray detailer. When I detail my friends beautiful, but filthy Mark VII LSC (BC/CC finish), I wash it with Dawn or Palmolive, use a mild polish, then wax.
        sigpic
        1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
        Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.

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          #19
          Mine has no clearcoat either, I have blue lines from where wetsanding water has run down the side of the car and I let it dry. When I polish heavily oxidized areas, the cloth comes up blue.

          85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
          160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
          waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

          06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

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            #20
            Yep, very simple test, if you use compound, swirl mark remover, paint restorer, ect. and the rag comes up the color of the car it's not bc/cc. What I do miss about single stage is the fact that it doesn't accumulate fine scratches so badly, and if it does, they buff out, and there's usually less orange peel.
            sigpic
            1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
            Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.

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