Painting or Coating Fasteners?

[Forcus]

Hey guys,

I've been trying to figure out a new way to paint or coat fasteners. Eventually I want to have a plating setup but for now I am doing what I can with paint.

Anyways, I haven't had much luck. I can prime fasteners and the primer won't chip off. But aluminum paint tends to go on very thick so it 1) dries slow, 2) gums up the threads and 3) ends up coming off the bolt head, which negates any advantage.

So basically, what are you guys doing? The only other thing I can think of is to get them complete clean with a blaster or wire wheel (I have both) and then put a spray clearcoat on them.

[1987cp]

The best tip I have came from Mustang Monthly magazine where a columnist recommended using regular gun bluing to emulate a factory nickel-oxide finish. I did that to quite a few bolts once, following glassbeading of course, and put some oil on them to discourage corrosion, but it really didn't hold up well under normal driving conditions. I do wonder whether the finish would hold up better if the fasteners were instead coated afterward with a quality oil-wax emulsion like Boeshield that's specifically designed to preserve metals and allowed to dry thoroughly in between at least two or three applications (or for a budget like mine, probably a mixture of WD-40 and Johnson Wax!).

[Forcus]

Thanks for the tip. The two systems I saw were from Eastwood. One is a black oxide type finish (good for some bolts), the other was an electroplate that could be polished (I don't really need / want all polished fasteners). Basically I want them to look like new and stay that way but the humidity gets to stuff here as much as water does (I don't plan to drive this car in the winter anymore. Wet, probably).

If I can't find anything (besides sending them out) I'll probably just try clear coating them.

[1987cp]

Eastwood's systems are probably a lot better than what I tried. I'd actually forgotten about the electroplate kit!

[85crownHPP]

I cant see any finish surviving getting a tool used on it... I wish the cool blue finish would hold up...

[1987cp]

I don't know, the black-oxide bolts one can buy at the hardware store seem to hold up OK. Until they begin to rust from exposure to the elements, that is. ARP stainless, or other quality stainless from this site called McMaster somethingorother that mrltd uses, seems to be the ticket for having a quality fastener that stays presentable.

[DuceAnAHalf]

the problem with using stainless bolts is that they seize easy so you have to use anti-sieze on everything and that stuff makes a mess. and stainless wants to strip out easy

[Forcus]

Also they are expensive. And I don't want to science out every nut and bolt especially suspension. Just basically make it hose off and look nice, and as little corrosion as possible. I'm stripping the underside by hand (wire wheel) and priming and painting and was just trying to do a nice job without going overboard. The silver paint hasn't worked for me even letting the paint harden and using plastic to cushion the socket on the bolt.

Worse comes to worse, I'll strip and prime them, use an antiseize for rust prevention on the threads then paint over them.

[P72Ford]

Stainless hardware is overrated. The galling and seizing, as mentioned by Duce, don't make it worth it. I like black oxide bolts. Unfortunately they rust.

What are you using these fasteners on, that they need tolook really nice? Just curious.

[Forcus]

Stainless hardware is overrated. The galling and seizing, as mentioned by Duce, don't make it worth it. I like black oxide bolts. Unfortunately they rust.

What are you using these fasteners on, that they need tolook really nice? Just curious.

Mostly chassis right now. Some engine later. Some people just fog everything flat black (which is fine) but I like nuts and bolts to look clean and fresh. The silver paint I've been using looks great... until you try to torque the bolt down.

[gadget73]

So paint the heads after installing, so you don't ruin the finish.

Stainless is an odd material. It seizes and galls, and in the presence of salt and stress it can split along the metal grain lines. Not really ideal for suspension parts IMHO.

[1980c10]

On my honda i'm just replacing all the hardware with new stainless anodized peices, and the ones I cant get in the right size, or suspension bolts and engine bolts im getting cleaned and nickle plated. Here are a couple sites for the stainless ones.

http://passwordjdm.com/Passwor....aspx

http://www.fastener-express.co...y=218

Here is an example of countersunk allen head replacment bolts and washers
on the fender and head light

http://img.photobucket.com/alb...y.png

[Forcus]

On my honda i'm just replacing all the hardware with new stainless anodized peices, and the ones I cant get in the right size, or suspension bolts and engine bolts im getting cleaned and nickle plated. Here are a couple sites for the stainless ones.

http://passwordjdm.com/Passwor....aspx

http://www.fastener-express.co...y=218

Here is an example of countersunk allen head replacment bolts and washers
on the fender and head light

http://img.photobucket.com/alb...y.png

Let me know where you are getting your bolts nickel plated. I might just end up going that route.

[1980c10]

I was thinking about advance plating in nashville but have not decided yet as I want to be positive that they have very high quality finished product

PS; going to check on the honda site and see what shop they recomend on the east coast since they are always getting stuff plated, and I will get back to you