hey guys i have a 89' grand marquis the body is very very clean except for a couple of rust bubbles one right near the windshield and most of them coming from the vinyl ill post pic's up when i can my cam working but all i wanted to know is that i've herd people say that when you sand and prime it the primer holds in moisture and it rusts from the inside out i want to fix all the little rust bubbles and then pain the car about 3 months after also i dont make allot of money so i will be fixing them slowly and i am also trying to learn but is it ok if i sand and prime or is there some thing else i can use that is safer thanks.
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Unfortunately, I'm getting the idea that rust bubbles usually are already rusting from the inside out. I've got a few spots that I suspect used to be just bubbles that I need to cut out and patch one of these days ....2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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It depends what kinda primer you use i believe, Ive hit the rust spots on my 78 F-150 with rustoleoum primer after a thorough sanding and its been fine for a few years now (thats what the pink spot is on the marker light in my intro/noob post pics). it specifically says that it prevents rust though. Also when i worked at the bodyshop the boss would primer things then push them outside and let them sit (real proffesional he was huh?) and if he applied actual primer they we're ok. You can also get cans of self etching primer from Advance auto parts, i believe its made by duplicolor. Its got an acid in it that helps it bite into the metal er sumthin like that then hit it with some of the rustoleoum primer maybe? The acid etch primer is good stuff but i think its really breathable so you have to cover it with something else to seal it. Maybe even find a rattle can of Eurathane primer?(not sure if it is actually eurathane i always mixed that up) or whatever it is that the bodyshops use in the paint guns.1999 Grand Marquis
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After you prime the rust just get a rattle can of auto car paint (your choice of color) just to act as a seal over the porous primer.~David~
My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz
Originally posted by ootdega
My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck
Originally posted by gadget73
my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.
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You can use an Epoxy Based Primer to seal up bare metal. It is not porous and the panel can be left outside in the humidity without any problems.
When I'm working a panel over, I use a red E-Coat over the exposed bare metal areas, and then hit the entire panel with regular grey Sealer Primer to make it all one solid color again.
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Originally posted by Don7887 View Posthe acid etch primer is good stuff but i think its really breathable so you have to cover it with something else to seal it. Maybe even find a rattle can of Eurathane primer?(not sure if it is actually eurathane i always mixed that up) or whatever it is that the bodyshops use in the paint guns.
I have wondered what the difference is in the regular Duplicolor brand primers you buy at AutoZone and the "Duplicolor Professional" they sell for more money at actual paint supply shops. I was using enough of the primer-filler there for a short while I finally bought the gallon of the junk at AutoZone and applied it with a brush!Last edited by 1987cp; 06-10-2009, 07:25 AM.2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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It's only necessary to use self-etching (acid etch) primer on bare metal areas which have not been sanded, (IE: Painting over a smooth metal surface, like Brand New Sheetmetal or Chrome) otherwise its a wasted step. If you have sanded the metal, just use a cheap Epoxy Primer.
Oh, and stay away from the Duplicolor stuff. Unless you really don't care about if the repair job lasts in the long term or not.
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Dupont, PPG, Nobel/Sikkens, Diamont, Centauri, Nason, Imron, are all good brands. The Shop I work at deals exclusively with PPG and Dupont Primers and Paints, which are top quality.
On the slightly cheaper side, I have used alot of Sikkens Primers and Base Coats with great success, on projects that I have worked on at home, in the past. They are available at most Sherwin Williams retail stores. They will also Mix and put them into a Rattle Can for you.
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well i got my MGM seised today for driving with a suspended license (yes i no bla bla bla thats illegal) well i know and im paying for it but ive been noticing that my car is starting to rust quite rapidly i guess ill rust proof it when i get it back in 30 days but does any one know any good body shops in the montreal area thanks.
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Dang, they must seize your car over nothing in Kanadia. Do they make you pay through the nose for storage fees, or is it more like your car just going to jail for a month?2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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do not pass go. do not collect 200 dollars.~David~
My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz
Originally posted by ootdega
My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."
Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck
Originally posted by gadget73
my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.
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well depending on how far you are from the nears impound for me cause i was like i exit from the place its 600$ to get my car back cause its 15$ a day it sits there PLUS 865$ as a ticked the good this is that it has nothing to do with getting my license back just a big ass fine and yes its like the car is in jail but they keep it indoors and no one touches it for 30 days MY POOR BABY! WAAAAAAAAAAA :'(
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Originally posted by 1987cp View PostWhat are better brands to buy? I asked the paint-jobber guy about PPG, and he told me it'd cost me a bundle.
For quality finishes, you need to go to a store that has a reputation for automotive paint. There are some 'paint' stores that deal in all kinds of paint, that can also provide quality automotive finishes.
Also, you get what you pay for, both in the type of paint, and the quality (which are related). There is a reason acrylic enamel is $50 a gallon.
The guy that does all my dad's work uses PPG. He has used it for years, and he was a paint rep for them for quite some time.
In addition to LTDMan83's list, I will add R&M (which I believe is a Diamont line), and Glasurit.**2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
**2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
**2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
**1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties
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Originally posted by V8GrandMarquis View Postwell depending on how far you are from the nears impound for me cause i was like i exit from the place its 600$ to get my car back cause its 15$ a day it sits there PLUS 865$ as a ticked the good this is that it has nothing to do with getting my license back just a big ass fine and yes its like the car is in jail but they keep it indoors and no one touches it for 30 days MY POOR BABY! WAAAAAAAAAAA :'(
The irony here is that with all that money you now have to pay in fees and tickets, you could've easily afforded a bodyshop to do a halfway decent job repairing the visible rust.
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