That paint looks pretty darn good!
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2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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That was this summer after i did the mothers 3 step to it and put turtle wax glazing on it....I don't know what happend to it but now it looks like shit again..like when I bought it..Basically the hood area is my biggest problem..when i think about it thats the only place on the car that is really oxidized... the other areas are ok....Il try to post some pics of what the hood looks like...
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I don't have an EC listed in my 1986 book. Anyone got a newer book? It does look like currant red, I'm just not sure if thats clearcoat or not. It probably is though.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it worksComment
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That sucks...it's fucking hard to find the color of my car..Ive tried many times. because I want to touch up the rust spots with POR15 and then paint and clear coat it but I guess I gotta keep on trying...
But Im gonna look into the 3M stuff for this spring and Il probally have it professionaly buffedComment
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Give these guys a call:Originally posted by chitownvic View Post
They should have everything you need, including a competent machine shop.VanSenus Auto Parts
6920 Kennedy Avenue
Hammond, Indiana 46323
(219)-844-2900Comment
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With the right stuff, it's not 100,000% necessary to have a super-pro detailer to get a good shine. With 3M Machine Glaze and an appropriate Stickit buffing pad on a pretty generic rotary buffer, even my (lack of) skill was sufficient to take the paint on one near-show-quality custom Mustang (that lives in your area, incidentally) from a 3000-grit finish to barely even needing going over with 3M Imperial Hand Glaze when the car's builder was repairing some scratches.
Here in mid-Michigan, I can buy the stuff at my local NAPA or CarQuest as well as a couple of paint shops I know of. I recall seeing 3M products at the Portage Commons Auto Parts (CarQuest) in Portage, IN, so I imagine it may be available at your nearest NAPA or CarQuest right there in Cook County.2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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I was thinking carquest myself..Il go check it out soon....The closest thing I have to a buffer is one of those Cheap orbital buffers that wobbles, would that work ?
It looks like this...Attached FilesComment
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I've got one of those too, and it's better than nothing, though I prefer mine for waxing floors.
If you've got a Harbor Freight closer than the one in Merrillville, IN, consider getting a Chicago Electric 7" polisher. Got mine on sale for about $30, only $5 more than the Ryobi random-orbit buffer.
Which reminds me, the buffing pad my old boss had me use was one of those waffle-face jobbies similar to this one, though I want to say the one I used was yellow.
I tried one of the cheap solid pads from Harbor Freight, but it seemed to develop too much heat too quickly - or at least, too quickly for a detailing doofus like me to easily control it with the above polisher's thumb-wheel speed control.
Last edited by 1987cp; 01-30-2009, 02:37 AM.2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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yeah, theres one close by..somewhere. but yeah that looks a lot better...never saw a waffle pad like that...would you recamed that or a regular ol stick on padComment
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Meguiar's #3, #9, and #26. Yes, machine= buffer.**2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
**2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
**2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
**1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck DutiesComment
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In order to find out if it's single-stage or basecoat/clearcoat, take some fine sandpaper (1000 grit or higher) to a painted spot out of easy view. Rub it on it a little bit and then look on the paper. If it's white, it's clearcoat that you're sanding. If it's the color of your car then it's the single-stage basecoat you're sanding.
By 1990 more than likely it's basecoat/clearcoat, but you might as well look anyway if you really want to know for sure.Comment
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Cool Il check em out...dam,just was in indiana today too at the hobby shop...Originally posted by torquelover View PostComment
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i prefer a wool buffing pad
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
please be patient, rebuilding an empire!
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wool would probably work good with the cleaner wax right ? and then when I add the regular wax would I still use wool or use something else ?Comment
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Last edited by 1987cp; 01-30-2009, 07:12 PM.2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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