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    Body work questions

    I have a parts car that I'm pulling the front doors and fenders off of. They all have very small spots of surface rust on them. My question is, on the fender by the cornering light I have some surface rust. I took a grinder with 50 grit sand paper and ground off as much rust as possible. Then I took a wire wheel and got most of the rust out of the pits but not all. I'm affraid that when I put my all metal filler on it, those small pits with rust in them will start to rust through the filler and paint. What can I use to remove all the rust from the pits or is there some chemical stuff I can put on there to neutralize it (por-15?) or would it be fine to put filler on it already? I want to do this right and not half ass it and have it rust three months after I paint it.
    My second question is about the door trim. How do I take off the trim that goes around the window(BTW the car has vent windows) without breaking it.

    2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
    My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

    #2
    Get this stuff thats green liquid at the parts store, it converts rust...
    1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
    Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

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      #3
      Do anything and everything to get rid of all the rust. AND, go just a little below it too. Any rust below the paint will result it 1 year later bubbles.

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        #4
        I got an old siphon sand blaster and got most of it out before I ran out of sand an was afraid I was gonna blow up my 4 gallon shitty compressor. I'll get some more sand and take it all out.

        2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
        My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

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          #5
          I wan't a sand blaster so bad. After you do that you won't have to worry about it again.

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            #6
            If you get a good one they are like gold. Mine was my grandfathers from the late 70's, it does its job but not well. I think if I went to a more aggressive media it should work pretty well. They are pretty cheap nowadays but do it outside or make a booth otherwise youll have a beach in your garage

            2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
            My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

            Comment


              #7
              I think all metal is a waterproof filler, which means it should keep that rust at bay for a long time. I wouldn't worry about a couple little pits with a little rust in em. It's not like you're putting filler over wet caked on rust. But I do agree, the less rust under there the better, I've just got a hunch you're ok with where you're at with it.
              1988 Ford Mustang coupe: 4cyl conversion, 5spd, 600cfm holley, roller rockers, headers, 2.5\" mac exhaust, alum. driveshaft, HD clutch, poor mans posi, blah blah blah.....


              1993 Sable: Ultra Beater

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                #8
                My pop says I'm over killing it too, he was a body man for a porsche dealership. I just dont want 1 year later bubbles after I get it painted.

                2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
                My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

                Comment


                  #9
                  If you don't want bubbles, get rid of it all!!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    If you don't want bubbles, get rid of it all!!

                    i agree. if you look into it you will find that from the late 70's to the late 80's car manufactures didn't do much for corosion protection with the exception of some cars i.e. porshe. that is also why the value of our cars isn't verry high. they rot out fast and easy . this means extra care to protect them from rust ... most cars from the early 90's were completely submerged in zink prior to being painted at the factory...today all the metal on cars is galvinized again increasing the corosion protection..

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                      #11
                      I was in the Autobody store looking for the best way to fix the rust on my car, mainly the floorpan. The guy said the best way is to sandblast, and then use and epoxy primer. I have a small sandblaster, but decided to Por15 instead. The guy at the store said it's also a good option and far less costly. Plus i have no experience and don't want to mess up (Por15 seems a little more goof proof and easier to use.) I am mainly trying to make sure it get's done right. The car will eventually have a frame off retso when i can afford it (still in college).

                      86' Grand Marquis LS Coupe [/url] http://photos.yahoo.com/leo76830
                      sigpic
                      1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
                      Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.

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